ro/di output

Water pressure and water temp play a part in the output of the RO membrane.

I think the operating temp is like 70ish and pressure I'm not sure of. If these are optimal it will give you the most output your membrane can do.
 
You can also change RO membranes and get more GPD. You'll also need to replace the restrictors to match the new membrane type. Additionally, you can put a piggy back on the first membrane which adds a second membrane to increase output. Keep in mind you'll need to run it all through the DI cartridge as well.
 
Two things have a major effect on a membranes GPD, water temperature and water pressure. To a lesser extent the waste ratio and your tap water TDS also affect the output.

Dow Filmtec rates their various membranes to produce either 25, 50, 75 or 100 GPD at 77 degrees F and 50 psi pressure.
This is only a baseline to have a level playing field, not that these are the number you need. Raising the pressure is the best way to not only increase the GPD but it also improves the rejection rate or removal efficiency too. If you have cold water, warming the water is a BAD IDEA since RO membranes are sensitive to hot water and anything over 113 degrees can melt one in a heart beat. Higher pressure will overcome colder water, plus colder water treats better and will give you lower treated TDS than warm water so warming it has no advantages and several disadvantages. Your pressure is probably fixed at whatever your utility provides so a booster pump would be in order but they run around $125-$175 depending on what you get.

Many drinking water systems come with 15 or 25 GPD RO membranes so they are limited. The most popular RO membrane on the market is the 75 GPD Dow Filmtec which is the same physical size but puts out several times as much water at the same temperature and pressure and at the same 96-98% efficiency. Depending on what you have now, you may be able to swap membranes and flow restrictors and upgrade to more flow for around $45. I would not go the 100 GPD Dow Filmtec route since it is only 90% efficient and does not remove as much TDS so DI resin life is cut short and gets expensive replacing.

Measure your waste ratio using a measuring cup and clock or watch. Measure the waste flow for one minute then measure the treated flow for one minute and compare the two. It should be close to 4:1 or 4 times as much waste as treated flow if the flow restrictor is sized properly. Too much waste and you are sending water down the drain robbing the membrane of pressure and GPD, too little waste and the membrane does not get flushed of TDS and is soon fouled and shot.

Do you have a TDS meter? If so measure the tap water TDS and the RO TDS to determine the condition of your membrane. This tells you if it is functioning and if it is worth saving or replacing. It should be in the 95-98% removal range if its working correctly, if not it probably needs replacing.

If your RO is from a store such as Sears, Costco or Lowes it may have a non standard RO membrane so would require a different membrane housing also but there are still choices.
 
Quick answer is "Yes"

Longer answer is you need tho change stuff out possibly, but it is hard to know what to tell you without knowing what RO system you have... as well as supply pressure. If you have one rated at a 40GPD, it should be as easy as changing out your membrane and restrictor. If it is not standard, the housings aren't expensive so change that as well. Higher rejection rate the better.

Spectrapure is a great place to look for the parts to make the change. I beleive they also have the booster pumps as well.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top