RO/DI question

Brandon42

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Okay so this is just a idea I am curious to know if it would work. I have a @Bulk Reef Supply RODI 4 stage water saver plus model. Iv recently installed it under my sink connected to a pressure take and faucet. Iv also got my DI line ran directly from under the sink to the tank so that I can top off at the flip of a switch rather than filling buckets. Any way the idea in question is will it affect or harm my unit if I crack the DI line open just a hair so the water to the tank coming from the DI would be a drop per 2 seconds kind of rate, would this stop my need for daily top offs and essentially work like a ato? Any input would be awesome as I do not want to risk damaging my unit but this would be cool if it worked.
 
Your evaporation rate changes all the time depending on temperature and humidity so tuning to a certain rate will bring you to creating a flood risk. The best way to achieve what you want since you have the supply is to hook the rodi unit exit to a float valve in your sump. Then the valve will take care of the rest
 
I would not, the amount you need changes from day to day and so letting it drip would not meet your needs. I know there is a way you can set it up so that it runs kind of like an ato but I think that involves switches and the like.
 
Never hook your RO/DI directly to your sump. Always fill a ATO storage container and top off the sump from there. Float valves can and do fail and it would flood your tank with fresh water killing everything.
You also want to isolate your DI from the pressurized RO tank with a check valve so TDS creep doesn't eat your DI resin. Takes longer to make DI but the resin will last much longer.
 
Ditto to AZDesert Rat. You will exhaust your RO membrane much faster and end up with high TDS in your tank if you top off directly. You should flush the RO membrane prior to making top off water in a tank, then top off to your tank.
 
Never hook your RO/DI directly to your sump. Always fill a ATO storage container and top off the sump from there. Float valves can and do fail and it would flood your tank with fresh water killing everything.
You also want to isolate your DI from the pressurized RO tank with a check valve so TDS creep doesn't eat your DI resin. Takes longer to make DI but the resin will last much longer.

A check valve after the split to the pressure tank? I have a ball valve on the line into the DI resin which is closed other than when topping off.
 
The check valve makes it so DI water is produced directly from the RO membrane and not from the TDS creep water in the pressure tank. Save the pressurized RO for drinking and the ice maker and make DI from the membrane. Like I said, it takes longer but if you are filling a Brute or ATO storage it doesn't matter.
 
Hmm I will look into a float valve or something. glad I asked first lol thanks for the input!

It's a good idea, but complicated.

AZDR is right that a float would ruin it and create a potentially hazardous situation.

Your original idea of continuous flow is better, but I think you might have to use a membrane with a much lower rating to get optimal results.

Stabilizing salinity with this type if ato would require some creativity. ;)
 

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