RO/DI question?
- Thread starter skinz78
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melev
Avid Hobbyist
When I change my filters, I usually just use them. If you measure the TDS coming out prior to the DI section, you'll see the numbers are still lower than what is coming out of the tap. If you feel better to rinse it away for 30 minutes, it's okay. However, I would rinse it out PRIOR to the membrane because you won't want carbon dust clogging it up.
As Marc pointed out, you need to rinse the filters before the membrane.
Start by removing your old filters and disinfecting the system with normal household bleach as the vendor or manufacturer recommended, if you cannot find directions I have posted them dozens of times and a quick search for RO disinfection will bring it up.
Once disinfected you should already have the line from the carbon housing up to the RO membrane housing disconnected at the membrane end, if not do so now. Install only the prefilter in the first housing and screw the other empty housings back together. Run a few gallons of water through the housings to waste in a bucket or the sink to rinse any antimicrobial treatments or dust from the filter then shut it off. Next install the carbon block in the next housing, if you have two which you shouldn't as they are not needed, install the more coarse of the two if they are different and again flush any carbon dust of fines to waste for several gallons so it does not foul the RO membrane. Do the same with the second carbon if you have two or better yet throw the coarse one away and use one good high quality low micron carbon block for better performance and flush it to waste. After this you can reconnect the 1/4" line to the RO membrane and you are in business. Its possible you may have trapped air in the housings so pick the unit up and rotate it around in your hands to release any trapped air and its good to go.
You will find a low micron prefilter such as 1 micron or less and a single low micron carbon block of the same size will work better since it adds less restriction or head loss to the RO membrane than two carbons and a high micron prefilter. Many vendors still think back to the old days when carbon was not as refined as it is today and two carbons were needed since some lasted as little as 300 total gallons, thats 60 treated gallons and 240 waste gallons. Todays 0.5 micron carbon block can last up to 20,000 gallons of normally chlorinated water provided it is protected by a low micron prefilter in about the same micron rating so it does not allow particulates and colloidal materials to plug or foul the billions of tiny microscopic pores in the carbon. The cost of two housings and two high quality filters is less initially than three housings and three mediocre filters and you only replace two filters from then on instead of three. They will also do a better job of protecting the RO membrane so it lasts longer, performs better and has a lower cost of operation and it in turn protects the DI resin better so it lasts longer and works better. All in all it costs you less money and you get better water quality since everything performs better.
Start by removing your old filters and disinfecting the system with normal household bleach as the vendor or manufacturer recommended, if you cannot find directions I have posted them dozens of times and a quick search for RO disinfection will bring it up.
Once disinfected you should already have the line from the carbon housing up to the RO membrane housing disconnected at the membrane end, if not do so now. Install only the prefilter in the first housing and screw the other empty housings back together. Run a few gallons of water through the housings to waste in a bucket or the sink to rinse any antimicrobial treatments or dust from the filter then shut it off. Next install the carbon block in the next housing, if you have two which you shouldn't as they are not needed, install the more coarse of the two if they are different and again flush any carbon dust of fines to waste for several gallons so it does not foul the RO membrane. Do the same with the second carbon if you have two or better yet throw the coarse one away and use one good high quality low micron carbon block for better performance and flush it to waste. After this you can reconnect the 1/4" line to the RO membrane and you are in business. Its possible you may have trapped air in the housings so pick the unit up and rotate it around in your hands to release any trapped air and its good to go.
You will find a low micron prefilter such as 1 micron or less and a single low micron carbon block of the same size will work better since it adds less restriction or head loss to the RO membrane than two carbons and a high micron prefilter. Many vendors still think back to the old days when carbon was not as refined as it is today and two carbons were needed since some lasted as little as 300 total gallons, thats 60 treated gallons and 240 waste gallons. Todays 0.5 micron carbon block can last up to 20,000 gallons of normally chlorinated water provided it is protected by a low micron prefilter in about the same micron rating so it does not allow particulates and colloidal materials to plug or foul the billions of tiny microscopic pores in the carbon. The cost of two housings and two high quality filters is less initially than three housings and three mediocre filters and you only replace two filters from then on instead of three. They will also do a better job of protecting the RO membrane so it lasts longer, performs better and has a lower cost of operation and it in turn protects the DI resin better so it lasts longer and works better. All in all it costs you less money and you get better water quality since everything performs better.
OP
OP
skinz78
10K Club member
Ha ha, the vendor was Marc! I bought my RO/DI from him many moons ago!
I didn't clean it out with bleach, I just replaced the filters and ran it for about an hour. Then made up 10 gallons of drinking water. Once I was done with this I tested it and I have 0 TDS so I started making water for the reef.
I didn't clean it out with bleach, I just replaced the filters and ran it for about an hour. Then made up 10 gallons of drinking water. Once I was done with this I tested it and I have 0 TDS so I started making water for the reef.
You bought a good unit from a trusted source! Its nice to have hobbyists in the industry who use the things they sell.
