RO/DI replacement cartridges

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Is anyone using the Coralife Pure Flo 2 50gpd Ro/Di unit? Where do you get you replacement filters? Are the filters all pretty standard? Can I put say the filters from Bulk Reef Supply in, or do I need the specific ones that came with the unit? Thanks, first time replacing filters, and I just wanted to know what my options are.
 
10 inch filters are standard in that they fit all ten inch canisters. I believe that has two canisters on it, so you will want a sediment filter and a carbon block. Realize they both come in a couple micron sizes.
 
There are much better filters than what Coralife provides and much less expenisve. BRS would not be my choice since they use very coarse sediment filters which do little to protect thecarbon block and membrane. They also do not blend their own DI resins so the lifespan and perfomance is middle of the road at best.

Read these then make your choice:

Maximize Performance - Minimize Cost

"Why should I switch vendors and go with SpectraPure?" - Reef Central Online Community

When do I change my sediment and/or carbon filter? - Reef Central Online Community
 
Yeah AZ is right on and I almost purchased the same unit you did. I ended up with a Aqua FX Barracuda 50 GPD and a Spectrapure 90 GPD. I am going with Spectrapure 0.5 Micron in my Aqua Fx on the first filter change and 0.5 on my Spectrapure instead of the 1 micron on its first change. I like both of my units and ya I would go with AZ advice the guy I cant think enough hes helped me out lots and saved me a bunch of headache.
 
Hey Az, what's the difference with all those types of DI resin in the bulk section of spectrapure ? I'm seeing sodium form, silica buster, semiconductor etc.. I've been using my LFS's DI resin and didn't know there were that many types. My tds comes out at 265. I'm using a 4 stage rodi and upgraded my unit to a 100gpd membrane and better sediment but I didn't look closely enough at the specificity of a DI filter. My Tds is zero after but i think I may be affecting my 75$ membrane in a bad way if I don't have the correct resin. I have high iron and lime with my water just trying to figure out what DI to use ?
 
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There are literally thousands of resins and blends. For reef use your best bet is the SilicaBuster custom blend they have developed over years of research. Spectrapure has a small test facility that is in continuous operation testing every resin imaginable under extreme conditions. They take that info and then blend only the best of the best for our uses.


PLEASE tell me you didn't purchase a Dow Filmtec 100 GPD membrane !! That is the absolute worst membrane for reef use in the world since it is only 90% rejection rate and not 96-98%. For every 2% you lose you cut your DI life in half so a 6-8% loss is like cutting your DI life by 12 to 16 times what it should be. DI can eat you up in replacement costs. The 100 is not even considered a RO membrane but is really a NF or Nano Filter and is not approved for drinking water use in the USA according to the ANSI/NSF. It was designed and intended for "Pool and Spa Use" by definition.

It is the performance of the RO membrane that affects your DI resin life, not the other way around since the membrane is before the DI. An individually hand tested and guaranteed 99% rejection rate 90 GPD Spectrapure high rejection rate RO membrane is only $51.99 here: Tested RO Membranes

This explains why they are different and how they can save you a ton of money:

SpectraPure's new 99% Rejection Membrane, your potential cost savings explained... - Reef Central Online Community
 
All of the spectrapure RO/DI systems say they have a 2:1 waste ratio and you said that I should have a 4:1 ratio if I'm not using softened water...so what should I do? Sorry if that's a dumb question lol
 
Certain Spectrapure systems are now low waste, not all. The ones that are come with test strips or kits to measure your water hardness and two flow restrictors one close to 3;1 and one close to 2:1 you then trim and install based on your test results. They also recommend softened water and warn you not to use low waste if you do not have soft water or it will shorten the life of your membrane driving the cost of ownership up. Others do not supply pr even mention test kits or strips and softened water and do not include adjustable capillary tube flow restrictors so you get what you get. Again, lots of research and development and working with your clients to walk them through the process and eductae them on the subject. RO and RO/DI are not "one size fits all" if you expect good performance and good life.
 
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i also have the Corallife pure flo 2 with 4 stages 50 gpd which i bought in December and after doing regular water changes on 3 tanks my sediment filter is yellow. When should i change it?
 
The easy answer is you change the sediment and carbon block filters every 6 months regardless of how much or how little you have used the system. The other method is you use your pressure gauge(s) to monitor headloss or pressure drop across the filter and change it when the pressure loss is enough to affect your GPD and rejection rate. With that method you should also have a low range chlorine test kit and monitor for chlorine breakthru on the carbon block due to plugging or fouling. Its easier to change them at 6 months or more often if the pressure gauge shows a drop.

I see you are in NY where it is extremely hard on sediment filters due to suspended solids in your "pristine" waters. Yes you have low TDS and should be proud of it but the TSS or suspended solids are about the highest in the nation until all the surface wate rtreatment plants are completed to take care of it. I highly recommend using the 0.2 micron ZetaZorb sediment filter from Spectrapure. It was developed and tested in your area specifically to handle the sediment loading and will last much longer even with it filtering many times better since it has a pleated sdesign with 10x the surface area. It can also be carefully rinsed a few times unlike normal spun poly or depth filters.
 
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The DI gets replaced when your handheld TDS meter says anything other than 0 TDS after a minute or so of operation and your RO membrane when you notice the GPD dropping off due to fouling, the rejection rate falls off due to a rupture or both. Usually membranes start fouling and the GPD starts going away even though your water pressure and water temperature have not changed. Worst case is they fail due to a rupture or tear and the GPD goes way up along with the TDS since it is bypassing the membrane.
 
Thanks all for all the information. I'm going to place an order with Spectrapure for some cartridges today. Hopefully they do make a difference. I'm surprised at the price difference from Coralife. Good to know. Again thank you.
 
New high efficiency innards on the way....as well as a pressure gauge kit. This may be a stupid question, but where in the line, should the pressure gauge be installed. My particular unit is a 4 stage.
 
The gauge goes between the carbon block and the RO membrane so you can monitor pressure available at the membrane itself.
 
Great info here. AZ knows his stuff. He recommended the same stuff for my busted RO/DI system. I just recieved the spectrapure membrane yesterday and will install it later today. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 'Rat.
 
Hey 'Rat. I just pulled this membrane from my unit. Is the the junk Dow Filmtec you thought it was in our previous conversation a few weeks ago? I sure hope I get better results from the Spectrapure membrane. This one sucks.

image.jpg
 
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A Dow Filmtec will have its name on it. Who knows who wound that one since they were not proud enough to put their name on it? There are many winders and some buy the fabric from Dow while others don't. Could be Applied or any number of companies.
 

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