RO/DI set up correctly?

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Dianna

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I'm not sure this Unit is set up correctly as I get a 2 TDS reading on input and 0 TDS on outflow. A picture to help- I appreciate any suggestions! This was bought second hand - I bought new filters and they look too new. I'm not sure of anything at present - any suggestions greatly appreciated.

image.jpeg
 
o at output is what you are looking for, looks as though it is time to change the resin. :)
 
thanks, I'll be replenishing the di soon...as per which way the high pressure tubing is set up...i have a feeling household water is bypassing the the fist two filters. should they not be showing some color change after several months in use...they still look brand new.
 
Your carbon block and your filter will hardly every show build up of particles that they filter. depending where you live and your water source will determine how fast you use DI
 
ok thanks...this is my first ro/di unit...before this it was a list to the LFS for rodi
 
Is it possible you have a BRS brand?

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-water-saver-plus-ro-di-system-150gpd.html

They have a instructions manual you can double check your tubing to make sure its all going to the right places. I have a BRS 6 stage and my Micro Sedi filter and my resin are the only ones right now that have visible color change. But once you do a change and allow the water to fill back up you can check the flow if its hitting the first canisters and than flowing to the next ones!
 
Ok thanks and not is not a BRS unit, it's a Captive Purity unit...but interestingly enough the setup is identical to the captive. I'll give the video and pictures a good look, though I do see some things on the BRS that are different from the captive. thanks
 
Ok thanks and not is not a BRS unit, it's a Captive Purity unit...but interestingly enough the setup is identical to the captive. I'll give the video and pictures a good look, though I do see some things on the BRS that are different from the captive. thanks

Since this is your first RODI - I recommend a few things that I found via trial an error with mine: place a towel down under the unit when you restart the water flow and have the canister tightener wand thing actually on hand (mine was a few feet away from me and I had water flow from one too loose) as well to double check that the rubber ring is clean (resin is my messy one) before tightening. I have had to on I think only one of them apply some food grade lubricant that came with my Calcium reactor on the ring itself since the seal started to leak even though I tightened it some more (the lubricant fixed it right up.. I think I have heard small amounts of vaseline could be okay?)
 
Your system has dual RO membranes, be aware it takes a minimum of 65 psi to operate two membranes efficiently.
The reason your IN is 2 and OUT is 0 is the IN it monitoring the RO water and the OUT the DI water. This is the main drawback with inline TDS meters, you are missing the tap TDS reading which is necessary to calculate the rejection rate or removal efficiency. Do yourself a favor and buy a good ATC handheld TDS meter so you can keep track of how well it is operating.
The plumbing should be like this:
http://spectrapure.com/huds/DUAL.pdf
With the DI on the end.
Sediment and carbon block filters may never appear visibly dirty but rest assured they are trapping particulates that could damage the membrane and should be changed every 6 months and the system disinfected during filter replacements. If you use a pressure gauge to monitor headloss and a low range chlorine test kit to monitor chlorine breakthru you might be able to extend the 6 months.
 
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Thanks for the schematic! Really appreciated. I was concerned not knowing what my TDS was coming from the tap. I was able to re route the the IN - my TDS is ranging 114 to 117 from the tap. Water is supplied via artesian wells in this town. Who carries the hand held digital TDS meter. Have not seen it anywhere.
 
Any RO vendor carries good temperature compensated handheld TDS meters. I recommend the HM Digital TDS-3, TDS-4TM or AP-1 or if you really want low range accuracy the COM-100. I use the COM-100 as my main meter with an AP-1 as a back up but have also owned the TDS-4TM and they are all good reliable meters. Be careful, buy from a trusted source and not ebay though, there are hundreds of clones or copies selling for less than $10, the real thing will cost you $25-$30 for the first 3 and $50-$60 for the COM-100.
 

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