RO/DI System Necessary??

[Deiblerj]

Lots of people, including myself, have run successful marine aquariums without owning an RO/DI. Some folks really do have good enough water quality that they just don't need one (rare, but it happens), some folks would rather carry buckets from the LFS (small tanks, I'd guess!), and some folks use a non-RO type filter (Culligan, etc). Even met a few that bought distilled water.

Others, like myself, just suffered with algae problems... until I bought that RO/DI unit.

IMHO, if you're going to own a reef tank, an RO/DI filter is a very SMALL percentage of what the system as a whole will cost, and will make a HUGE difference in the likelihood of success, in a hobby where the vast majority of newcomers don't last very long.

These days, my RO is plumbed to a pressure tank under the sink, providing filtered drinking water at the sink, and chilled water at the fridge, even ice cubes are made from RO filtered water. Post DI, it's plumbed directly to my ATO system, and to my AWC reservoir... I use the heck out of my RO/DI system, can't imagine not having one.

Also, was it difficult to set up your RODI to your ATO? Do you have float valves to auto on/off?

 

[Greybeard]

Wow that’s awesome! What type of system are you using? How often do you have to change your filters? I feel like that’s a lot of use for your typical RODI system! Haha

I've been buying RO supplies from AirWaterIce for many years. Always fair pricing, excellent quality, good service...

My system is based on their dual home/reef system, but I've added upgrades. Basically, I've got a booster pump, sediment filter, dual stage carbon, 75gpd RO membrane, and through a premate pump. From there, it's stored in a 5g pressure tank, feeds my faucet and refrigerator. Check valve keeps stored RO from feeding back into DI systsem. 3 stage DI cartriges, feed directly to my mixing station and my ATO system.

I change sediment and dual carbon blocks quarterly, and flush my RO membrane at the same time. DI Carts as needed, about every 5 months... My RO Membrane seems to last about 3 years. I've had to replace the check valve every year or so.

 

[Greybeard]

Also, was it difficult to set up your RODI to your ATO? Do you have float valves to auto on/off?

No, not difficult, but to be SAFE, I had to do a bit of DIY work...

So, RO/DI line comes into a mechanical float valve in my sump. Sump level is controlled by this valve. Behind the float valve, I have a motorized ball valve, in a simple circuit with a float switch. Water level in the sump rises an inch or so above the normal level dictated by my float valve, and the motorized ball valve closes. Power fails, motorized ball valve closes. It's a pretty safe system. I do have a backup float switch connected to my Apex, so I get an email alarm when the sump level is high. It also disables my skimmer.

I have exactly the same system installed on my AWC reservoir/mixing station, coupled with a low level alarm. When the reservoir gets low, it emails me (Apex). I disable the AWC pump, and open a hand valve to refill the barrel with RO/DI water. When water reaches float valve, it shuts off. If valve fails, float switch and motorized ball valve catches the problem before anything floods. Once I see that it's full, I turn off the hand valve, salt to taste, and re-enable the AWC pump.

 

[Deiblerj]

No, not difficult, but to be SAFE, I had to do a bit of DIY work...

So, RO/DI line comes into a mechanical float valve in my sump. Sump level is controlled by this valve. Behind the float valve, I have a motorized ball valve, in a simple circuit with a float switch. Water level in the sump rises an inch or so above the normal level dictated by my float valve, and the motorized ball valve closes. Power fails, motorized ball valve closes. It's a pretty safe system. I do have a backup float switch connected to my Apex, so I get an email alarm when the sump level is high. It also disables my skimmer.

I have exactly the same system installed on my AWC reservoir/mixing station, coupled with a low level alarm. When the reservoir gets low, it emails me (Apex). I disable the AWC pump, and open a hand valve to refill the barrel with RO/DI water. When water reaches float valve, it shuts off. If valve fails, float switch and motorized ball valve catches the problem before anything floods. Once I see that it's full, I turn off the hand valve, salt to taste, and re-enable the AWC pump.

Wow! Impressive!

Thanks for sharing!! Eventually (when I move and get a bigger setup going) I would like to set something up similar to what you have. I HATE carrying buckets of water to and from the LFS. But it’s my only option at the moment. I don’t really have a good sink/area for a RODI system in my apartment

 

[Bpb]

My municipal tap water comes out at 24 dkh and 0.3 PO4. Metals and chlorine aren’t the only problem with tap water. Rodi water allows you to start with an acceptable trace and major element profile and not have to correct anything.

 

[Water Dog]

Hey guys, I got my system running, and it seems to be working, but the water I have coming out of it has an alkalinity of 15, is that normal??

Could it be testing error? Are you using a freshwater Alkalinity test to test your RODI water? I only ask because companies like Hanna offer different testers for Marine and Freshwater.

 

[Rupture Reefer]

Could it be testing error? Are you using a freshwater Alkalinity test to test your RODI water? I only ask because companies like Hanna offer different testers for Marine and Freshwater.

Thanks for the reply, it actually turns out that I had it set up badly, I was collecting the bad water. Now it's all good. As far as you question about the test kit, I use the Salifert KH kit.