Ro/di system testing

[dirty_south87]

To start it off to have a better understanding, last weekend I tested my water before doing my weekly water change. Most of my numbers were outside of safe range so to make sure I took a sample to my lfs and they got the same results. The major ones were ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. So after discussing with lfs they recommended to do at minimum 25% water change but if possible do 30%. Numbers were still high come next morning, so I dose for them to get them down. 3 days later I done another 10% water change early that morning and retested later that afternoon the numbers seemed to have gotten higher. Went to lfs and bought chemicals that I didn’t have. Fast forward to today, ammonia came down to 0.05 on the Hanna checker and Red Sea test kit, nitrite was at 0.01, and nitrate was over 50. Nitrite and nitrate was done with Red Sea (only test I have for them). So I got a wild hair and decided to test the ro/di water in my storage and according to it my ammonia is sky high and everything else is basically non existent. I even tested the water fresh from the system and got the same results. So the big question is do I add another system or is there something else I should look into?

 

[Saltyreef]

To start it off to have a better understanding, last weekend I tested my water before doing my weekly water change. Most of my numbers were outside of safe range so to make sure I took a sample to my lfs and they got the same results. The major ones were ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. So after discussing with lfs they recommended to do at minimum 25% water change but if possible do 30%. Numbers were still high come next morning, so I dose for them to get them down. 3 days later I done another 10% water change early that morning and retested later that afternoon the numbers seemed to have gotten higher. Went to lfs and bought chemicals that I didn’t have. Fast forward to today, ammonia came down to 0.05 on the Hanna checker and Red Sea test kit, nitrite was at 0.01, and nitrate was over 50. Nitrite and nitrate was done with Red Sea (only test I have for them). So I got a wild hair and decided to test the ro/di water in my storage and according to it my ammonia is sky high and everything else is basically non existent. I even tested the water fresh from the system and got the same results. So the big question is do I add another system or is there something else I should look into?

Presence of ammonia in RODI usually means chloramines but i would verify with another kit. Is your red sea kit expired?

 

[mnl119]

Presence of ammonia in RODI usually means chloramines but i would verify with another kit. Is your red sea kit expired?

I agree with this. Most carbon cartridges will not filter chloramines. BRS carbon blocks do (or at least they advertise this). Maybe try one of the BRS carbon blocks?

If you have high chloramines, your RO membrane may be dead.

 

[dirty_south87]

Presence of ammonia in RODI usually means chloramines but i would verify with another kit. Is your red sea kit expired?

My lfs had suggested that so I went and got one of those test kits from Lowe’s to check my water and it was not showing that. And no my Red Sea kit is not expired that was checked as well.

I agree with this. Most carbon cartridges will not filter chloramines. BRS carbon blocks do (or at least they advertise this). Maybe try one of the BRS carbon blocks?

If you have high chloramines, your RO membrane may be dead.

I’ll check into that

 

[Opus]

What did you check the RO water with for ammonia.

 

[Saltyreef]

My lfs had suggested that so I went and got one of those test kits from Lowe’s to check my water and it was not showing that. And no my Red Sea kit is not expired that was checked as well.

I’ll check into that

you would need a total and free chlorine test kit to determine if there were chloramines and or chlorine in the tap water system.
Test at the faucet supplying your system, not the product water from the system.

If you find total chlorine, then test for free chlorine and the difference is chloramine ppm.

You can also test your waste water to see if anything is getting past the carbon once you replace everything.

 

[dirty_south87]

What did you check the RO water with for ammonia.

I used the Hanna checker and a freshwater ammonia test. I called the lfs and asked about the Hanna checker against Ro water and they said it would work.

 

[dirty_south87]

you would need a total and free chlorine test kit to determine if there were chloramines and or chlorine in the tap water system.
Test at the faucet supplying your system, not the product water from the system.

If you find total chlorine, then test for free chlorine and the difference is chloramine ppm.

You can also test your waste water to see if anything is getting past the carbon once you replace everything.

I did get one of those total chlorine test and did check the tap water, it came out to 1 ppm. The hardness and alkalinity were really high on the chart.

 

[Saltyreef]

I did get one of those total chlorine test and did check the tap water, it came out to 1 ppm. The hardness and alkalinity were really high on the chart.

You need a free chlorine test kit too.

With total chlorine test, you dont know how much of it is chlorine or chloramines.

But either way, you should now test your product RO water to see if its making it past the membrane. If so, you know youll need a new membrane and better carbon block.

 

[Opus]

I used the Hanna checker and a freshwater ammonia test. I called the lfs and asked about the Hanna checker against Ro water and they said it would work.

According to their website, it is saltwater only. They have 3 different freshwater testers so it is hard to say. I know a couple of their saltwater only testers are the same as the freshwater but you have to use the freshwater chemicals.

 

[dirty_south87]

According to their website, it is saltwater only. They have 3 different freshwater testers so it is hard to say. I know a couple of their saltwater only testers are the same as the freshwater but you have to use the freshwater chemicals.

I had figured that would be the case so it was why I got the freshwater ammonia kit. my wife is gonna contact the town to request a water test to get their “official“ results on it

 

[Opus]

I had figured that would be the case so it was why I got the freshwater ammonia kit. my wife is gonna contact the town to request a water test to get their “official“ results on it

Do they have a website? Most post their latest water quality report on their websites.

Also, do you know the tds of your tap water, after ro and after di. That can help determine if your ro membrane is working.

 

[Saltyreef]

Also, do you know the tds of your tap water, after ro and after di. That can help determine if your ro membrane is working.

RO Rejection Rate Calculator - Check Reverse Osmosis Membrane Health

The rejection rate is the percentage of the amount of TDS eliminated from the tap water by the RO membrane.

enviraj.com

 

[dirty_south87]

Do they have a website? Most post their latest water quality report on their websites.

Also, do you know the tds of your tap water, after ro and after di. That can help determine if your ro membrane is working.

Last time I checked it the tap water was a little over 100, the ro water came out to a 2 yesterday

 

[dirty_south87]

Do they have a website? Most post their latest water quality report on their websites.

Also, do you know the tds of your tap water, after ro and after di. That can help determine if your ro membrane is working.

They never really update the website like they are suppose to, sometimes it’s better to call them

 

[Saltyreef]

Last time I checked it the tap water was a little over 100, the ro water came out to a 2 yesterday

That sounds fine. 98%

 

[dirty_south87]

That sounds fine. 98%

I’m just confused on how when I done a water change the ammonia levels went up high, struggled to get it down. I told the lfs about the tds numbers and they told me to test the water. Is it possible that my system is not big enough or the filters will need replacing sooner than later? The ro/di system is roughly 2 months old

 

[Saltyreef]

I’m just confused on how when I done a water change the ammonia levels went up high, struggled to get it down. I told the lfs about the tds numbers and they told me to test the water. Is it possible that my system is not big enough or the filters will need replacing sooner than later? The ro/di system is roughly 2 months old

No your RODI system is not too small.
Theres something we are missing here.

Lets re-asess this and forget what the LFS said or what your ammonia test says.

1.Your system is 2 months old.

2. your tap water has 1ppm total chlorine tested with a tap water test kit.

3. You have not tested free chlorine with a tap water test kit.

4. You have not tested your tap water after the carbon stage.

4. Your RO membrane is still good at 98% rejection

i would advise the following......

1.Test your tap water for free chlorine so you know what you are dealing with (chlorine or chloramines)

2.Buy this carbon block to put in place of your existing block. Keep in mind to go with a smaller micron size prefilter than what the carbon is rated for to keep the carbon from getting exhausted too quickly. (I run .5 micron pre and .5 micron carbon)

MatriKX PB1 0.5 Micron Lead Removal Carbon Block 10" - CF-LR-0.5-10

MATRIKX PB1 Carbon Block Filter - 0.5 Micron (Nominal), 2 3/4" D x 9 3/4" L Fully finished MATRIKX® PB1 Carbon Block filter cartridges are compatible with industry standard 10 inch open sump housings: FEATURES: Chloramine Removal Carbon Block Filters: Removes: PFAS, Lead, Chlorine, Chloramine...

spectrapure.com

3. Test water for total chlorine at carbon stage output after installing new carbon block.


Do all this before you continue making water and destroying your RO membrane.

 

[dirty_south87]

No your RODI system is not too small.
Theres something we are missing here.

Lets re-asess this and forget what the LFS said or what your ammonia test says.

1.Your system is 2 months old.

2. your tap water has 1ppm total chlorine tested with a tap water test kit.

3. You have not tested free chlorine with a tap water test kit.

4. You have not tested your tap water after the carbon stage.

4. Your RO membrane is still good at 98% rejection

i would advise the following......

1.Test your tap water for free chlorine so you know what you are dealing with (chlorine or chloramines)

2.Buy this carbon block to put in place of your existing block. Keep in mind to go with a smaller micron size prefilter than what the carbon is rated for to keep the carbon from getting exhausted too quickly. (I run .5 micron pre and .5 micron carbon)

MatriKX PB1 0.5 Micron Lead Removal Carbon Block 10" - CF-LR-0.5-10

MATRIKX PB1 Carbon Block Filter - 0.5 Micron (Nominal), 2 3/4" D x 9 3/4" L Fully finished MATRIKX® PB1 Carbon Block filter cartridges are compatible with industry standard 10 inch open sump housings: FEATURES: Chloramine Removal Carbon Block Filters: Removes: PFAS, Lead, Chlorine, Chloramine...

spectrapure.com

3. Test water for total chlorine at carbon stage output after installing new carbon block.


Do all this before you continue making water and destroying your RO membrane.

I will look in the morning on where I can get one of those test kits to test for those. And look into replacing that filter

 

[Saltyreef]

I will look in the morning on where I can get one of those test kits to test for those. And look into replacing that filter

Pool supply or amazon

https://a.co/d/ftanebU

But get the filter ordered first because its going to protect you from both chlorine and chloramine. Im just a stickler for knowing exactly whats in the water source lol