RO/DI Unit Opinion

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Connie

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I am going to buy a RO/DI unit. I just was it to be simple, like from outside faucet to unit to barrel. What brand do you recommend?

I am also buying a a few back-up things and would like your opinion for my 90g reef:

Pump - I currently have a Rio 2500 and it is loud..was thinking Sicce?

Skimmer - I currenty have a marineland. Don't know the model of it, but it is too loud. I need something with a small footprint because of limited room in the sump. Don't have a clue what the best would be.
 
Most ro/di are pretty generic and the quality of the filters is more important...bulk reef supply sells some good filters.
 
Melevs reef, bulk reef supply, air water
and ice, and filter guys are good choices. Have measured your tds coming out of your tap water?


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For ro/di I use bulk reef supply. My di has lasted me forever and I have a 180g.

Powerheads for cheap id use koralia. For higher end better pumps use tunze or vortech.

I duno bout skimmers but eshopps makes a small series I hear is good. Or go diy algae turf scrubber. Easy to build easy to maintain and cheap.

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bct15 is correct, MOST RO/DI are generic but do not settle for generic, go for the best.
No other vendor comes close to Spectrapure for reef quality RO/DI systems. They are the only vendor who specially treats and tests their RO membranes to increase the performance, the only one to use the much better absolute rated sediment filters rather than less expensive and less efficient nominal rated and the only vendor to custom blend every ounce of their reef specific DI resins. They also use the much better capillary tube flow restrictors and guarantee the performance of their systems backed up with over 25 years in the business in the same AZ city in a brick and mortar building, not a shipping container like many others.
At $128 you cannot go wrong. Heck, at twice that you couldn't go wrong.
MAXPURE MPDI SYSTEM
 
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I personally went with BRS's system, the 6 stage deluxe is priced really fair for all the awesome extra's it includes, i find that spectra is a little over prices for the system you get
 
I think you will find it is actually quite the opposite in fact.
Spectrapure provides the best value to their customers. For one their decades of research and development has found more stages is not better, it can actually be worse since every stage added in front of the membrane has an associated head loss which lowers membrane efficiency not to mention the unnecessary extra cost. Research shows a single absolute rated sediment filter at the same micron range as the single carbob block provides superior filtration with minimal headloss so the membrane sees greater pressure and performs better.
You will also find they do not seel anything off the shelf and actually hold many patents, copyrights and trademarks for RO/DI related items.
You don't want or need all the extra dodads which do nothing but give you a warm fuzzy feeling like flush kits, extra carbons etc. Why waste your hard earned money when you don't need to?
Don't fall into the ebay trap of the more stages the better the system. This is simply not true.Its what each stage contains that makes all the difference in the world, not how many there are. For a reef quality RO/DI you want and need 4 stages, thats it. If you want to add value an additional full size vertical DI is a good option but multiple carbons, so called chloramine filters or little horizontal DI filters offer no benefits nor value other than to lighten your wallet.
Go to the Spectrapure website and click on their FAQ or look on any of their Sponsors Forums on all the reef sites and read the results of some of their research projects and how it has helped in their product development. Its not bunk, it really makes a difference.
 
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Good thread I was wondering the same questions actually. No one has named a skimmer yet? How are the Tunze ones that have the filter bag on the front page of this site? Also looking for quietness much like the OP.
 
bct15 is correct, MOST RO/DI are generic but do not settle for generic, go for the best.
No other vendor comes close to Spectrapure for reef quality RO/DI systems. They are the only vendor who specially treats and tests their RO membranes to increase the performance, the only one to use the much better absolute rated sediment filters rather than less expensive and less efficient nominal rated and the only vendor to custom blend every ounce of their reef specific DI resins. They also use the much better capillary tube flow restrictors and guarantee the performance of their systems backed up with over 25 years in the business in the same AZ city in a brick and mortar building, not a shipping container like many others.
At $128 you cannot go wrong. Heck, at twice that you couldn't go wrong.
MAXPURE MPDI SYSTEM

Im going for it, but this was my total. 25$ shipping.

[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD="align: right"]
Purchase Total:

[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]$ 153.88[/TD]
[TD="width: 1"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
My first good skimmer was a Aqua Medic Turboflotor 1000 with the OR2700 needlewheel pump. I was very happy with it but wanted to try something different and now have an ASM G3 which I like even better.

For return pumps I would recommend Ocean Runner, Eheim and Water Blaster, all are very quiet and very energy efficient.
 
Why not buy components? How soon are you looking to buy? The reason I ask is simple I am getting back into RODI after selling Air, Water & Ice five years ago. I want to help you out but right now I am just handling supplies like TDS meters , DI resin , Membranes.
How much water do you want to make in a day? What is your water source well /city?
If you find a used system may as well get one well used. Toss the filters, membrane and DI cartridge. RODI systems are basically fixed non moving part things that rely on replacement filters . As long as the hardware is sound and the ASOV works, getting a used system is a pretty good idea. Maybe you can find an one Typhoon cheap, clean it up add new filters and down the reef keeping road you go :)
 
One little addition, if you use city tap water and that water is treated with Chlorine and Ammonia the resultant product Chloramines are really hard to remove with plain old G.A.C. granular activated carbon. Using a catalytic carbon filter is the way to go on most city water.
If you want fewer stages consider this Stage (1) Catalytic carbon, Stage (2) a depth sediment filter five micron or smaller (FilmTec requires only five microns to keep the warranty intact) Stage three a high T.D.S. rejection membrane Axeon or Filmtec, Stage four the full size mixed bed Di cartridge.
Head loss or pressure drop is never a problem with 100 gpd and under systems. I see no problem with a three stage pre-filter assembly Basic carbon block, Catalytic carbon , depth sediment.
RO membranes and the RO process are pressure dependent however a ten inch residential filter cartridge with 1/4 inch port is rated at two gallons per minute. Far more flow that a 100 g.p.d. or less membrane system ever requires. Remember keep up the maintenance on your filters, change them before you need to. How this post was helpful to you. Feel free to ask any other question you may have I have been treating water problems with reverse osmosis for over thirty years.
 
Hi,
What is the tds of your tap water? I ask because you commented that your DI lasts forever. The function of a DI is removal of ions and the DI resin will become exhausted as a simple matter of Physics. You probably should check your DI output, you see if you have low feed water T.D.S. and an excellent membrane you may have such good quality water from the membrane that you did not notice the failure of the DI unit. It is hard to tell (3) ppm water from (0) ppm water by looking.
If you are reading any higher than (0) T.D.S. from the DI it is time to replace it, I do not care if it still has color the dye used is an indicating dye that is all.
Let me know, or ask any question you want. Thirty years in reverse osmosis from converting Salt water to reef make up water.
 
Dear R& R members, I would like to hang out here answering RO DI questions. I do have a great deal of experience and knowledge. I was awarded a US patent In 1990 the patent was for a self cleaning reverse osmosis system. Back then I was building sea water conversion units for resort Hotels. U.S.V.I. , Cozumel, places like that. Back then membranes cost the customer ($2,000.00) US dollars each (eight inch by forty inch fiberglass wrapped).
The idea of a system that enhanced SW membrane life was a very hot topic indeed.
I know that we installed $48,000.00 worth of membranes in these systems and operated them at (800-900) psi with a (30 %) recovery rate, and you know what we used for sediment cartridges? Five (5) micron poly depth cartridges lots and lots of them . Not once did we invalidate a FilmTec membrane warranty.
Our typical product water t.d.s. was 350 ppm not bad when you start with 32,000-34,000 part per million seawater.
I am far from perfect, and I do make mistakes ( I was told to say that by my wife) but I when it comes to Reverse Osmosis been there done that.
 
I got my RODI unit from bulk reef supply. when you buy the unit it comes with a bunch of different connections i use the garden hose one. It hooks up to the hose connect and pumps it though my window into a 35 gallon trash can. Very easy to use:bigsmile:
 
Regarding skimmers I think down drafts like aqua c and evolution 500 are the best option IMO because that's what I currently use. But they require a large pump and aren't the quietest but they sure skim like crazy. Coral vue I had b4 and it sucked.
 
+ 1 on the Reef Octopus Skimmers I have XS 160 on my 90 a couldn't be happier and far a return pump I have a Sicce Syncra Silent 4.0 for a return and it's pretty quiet no complaints


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Catalytic carbons are a waste of money for chloramines at normal residential levels, its the ammonia portion that is tough to remo ve and requires good DI resin and contact time, the chlorine portion is a walk in the park for a good 1 micron or less carbon block.

Personally I have found purchasing used systems usually ends up costing more than a new reef quality system and often you end up inheriting someone elses problems which is why they sold it to begin with. Plus new systems are usually warrantied.
 
Catalytic carbons are a waste of money for chloramines at normal residential levels, its the ammonia portion that is tough to remo ve and requires good DI resin and contact time, the chlorine portion is a walk in the park for a good 1 micron or less carbon block.

Personally I have found purchasing used systems usually ends up costing more than a new reef quality system and often you end up inheriting someone elses problems which is why they sold it to begin with. Plus new systems are usually warrantied.

Judging from your answers, answers that cover topics requiring expertise.

Do you mind if I ask you for your qualifications ?


Thanks :D
The Guru
 

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