RO/DI Well Water quality?

[Tyler N]

Hey everyone, I am hoping that one of you has experienced something similar and can give me some clarification. I am looking at getting an RO/DI filter to start making my own water, those trips to and from the fish store are getting old already. My only concern is that I have well water at my house. It is fully filtered and safe, but it has an unavoidable yellow tint. I don't want to have yellowish water in my tanks, will a good RO/DI system clear the water up? Are any of you running slightly tinted well water in your systems? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[Nanojoe]

Following.
I am curios to hear from those on well water and using RODI units.

 

[Weasel1960]

Do you have a house filter on your supply line? I have one between my expansion tank and water softener before it is distributed to the house. 10 micron I think takes out orange brown sediment. Change it out every 4 to 6 months.

 

[I never finish anythi]

A good ro/Di should clear it up might have to change filters a bit more often tho

 

[Tyler N]

Do you have a house filter on your supply line? I have one between my expansion tank and water softener before it is distributed to the house. 10 micron I think takes out orange brown sediment. Change it out every 4 to 6 months.

I do, yeah. It also runs through a carbon filter and a bleaching system (all the bleach is removed) it just has the slightest tinge of yellow to it in large quantities. I really only notice it in the bathtub/hot tub, but I figure I would definitely notice it in a tank.

 

[thewedge]

I have a well, but have never had water quality issues besides it being on the hard side. I've recently seen that keeping my water softener in line results in longer life of my DI resin. I'd imagine that as long as you have the appropriate stages in your filtration, you'll be fine. Seems a sediment filter is needed.
I've been relatively lucky. I did a home test kit for for sulfur, phosphate and nitrate, and had neither. My tds before RODI is around 250. Contrast that with my in-law's will which is close to 500. Their water has a noticable taste and smell that I have never liked.

 

[edd59]

get your water tested and see what is causing yellow. maybe sulfur. then go from there , might need a specific filter. im on well water, 85 TDS, run a brs 7 stage with 3 different DI stages. i go through Anion stage 2-300 gal. assuming co2.

 

[thewedge]

get your water tested and see what is causing yellow. maybe sulfur. then go from there , might need a specific filter. im on well water, 85 TDS, run a brs 7 stage with 3 different DI stages. i go through Anion stage 2-300 gal. assuming co2.

3 stage DI? Wow. What made you decide you needed to go that route? My tds after RO is 4 and after DI is 0. Am I potentially missing something?

 

[edd59]

3 stage DI? Wow. What made you decide you needed to go that route? My tds after RO is 4 and after DI is 0. Am I potentially missing something?

same here but i had high co2, they said it would go right threw mixed bed. i have cation, anion and mixed bed.
i think most well water is high in co2

 

[Blue Cheese]

I’m on well water,my water isn’t tinted,as said before you should get it tested
I use a booster pump and 2 150 gpd membranes and 2 DI cartridges for less waste,I’ll add a third DI next change
RODI on well isn’t an issue I’d be more worried why your water is yellow imo

 

[Tyler N]

I’m on well water,my water isn’t tinted,as said before you should get it tested
I use a booster pump and 2 150 gpd membranes and 2 DI cartridges for less waste,I’ll add a third DI next change
RODI on well isn’t an issue I’d be more worried why your water is yellow imo

It was terrible when we first bought the house, the old system was 20+ years old. First thing we invested in was a new system. It had sulfur gas and high tannins causing the discoloration. We installed a charcoal filter as well as holding tanks that run through a bleaching process, but still can't seem to clear it up fully. The horrid odor and taste went away though, and 98% of the discoloration.

 

[ck24]

Triple DI last DI is silica buster all water is degassed before running thru the DI. Added the silica buster as silica was showing up
on my ICP test even though showing 0 TDS. Now I have true 0 with ICP confirming monthly. The degassing will help you not to burn thru DI resin as much.