Dow 100gpd 99% membranes are not uncommon. Running a pair at the moment.
RO-DI
- Thread starter anthonygf
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anthonygf
Valuable Member
I want to thank you all for your help with this problem. Opus led me in the correct direction, isolate/check tds output of each membrane. Well in the process of doing so I cut the wrong line and found the system air-bound. I run my membranes in series so I cut the waste line of #1 that feeds #2 instead of checking the product water of each membrane which is tied together to make one output. You all follow me so far. So when I first replaced my membranes ( first time in seven years) I did not flush them properly. I guess you can't flush both membranes properly when connected in series, you need to flush them independently. I placed a tee fitting and a valve in the line I cut and turned on the water, well to my surprise all the gunk and smelly dirty water flushed out between #1 and #2. Now my readings are much better, 480 tds in, 63 post membranes and zero post DI. WOW go figure. thanks again, you all had very good suggestions and I do appreciate it.
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anthonygf
Valuable Member
Hello ying yang. I understand what you are saying about the fines getting through on such an old filter. I guess that is why I have a sediment filter for this purpose after the big carbon filter, I also have a sediment filter post water softener because I had beads break down years ago and made a mess in my plumbing. I now have filters after everything in the system. I also have a water pressure booster pump for the whole house now, runs 60-70 psi. I no longer need the one for the RO. Thank you.
RO/DI Basic Guide
There are always a lot of questions regarding which RO/DI setup do I need, how many stages, how do I know when to change filters/membranes, I’m getting a weird TDS value, etc. Hopefully this clarifies a few things and helps some of you out one day. My first recommendation would be to find the...www.reef2reef.com
Not sure if got the answers you want in this,but maybe give this a read.
Seems like you getting nearly 50% reduction after your membrane so something clearly up.
My first thought,was the membranes fully inserted so the water going through the membranes and not bypassing,second thought was your in-house carbon 4 foot thing,its few years old you say but is this letting any fines through or something like this.
Then 3rd thought was what membranes you actually using,are they good ones kind of thing and then was have you got correct restrictor in,and i read often 80-90 psi is a good psi to aim for so if you got the booster pump maybe give that a try to just install on rodi unit.I'm a plumbing and heating engineer but not a rodi expert as only fitted and used my own and fit a few just small ro units under a sink in past.
So no expert as I say as knowledge on rodi units pretty limited tbh.
Good luck and hopefully you get to bottom off your problem.
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anthonygf
Valuable Member
Thanks to you Opus I found the problem. Airbound between #1 and #2. You led me in the correct direction. I didn't get a chance to check the tds output of each membrane but I guess not needed now.
SteveMM62Reef
Valuable Member
Wow, 230 tds would be unacceptable for me. I’d be looking for another source of water, or a whole house pretreatment. Must be rough on plumbing fixtures. Do you live in New Hampshire by any chance? I had a relative there, and they had really cheap plumbing fixtures. The reason for this was, no matter what the brand, they could only get three to four years out of them.
Also running mine in series. I'd honestly run parallel if a single booster would push both to 90. I'm starting with 0psi so series is what I'm stuck with.
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anthonygf
Valuable Member
I love new Hampshire. I used to camp out in the White Mountains during the winter. No I live in Las Vegas Nevada and the water is up to 520 tds at times. I have a whole house water softener which helps a lot.
EricR
2500 Club Member
Not to derail this thread but, now you're scaring me:
-- My tap water runs around 445 ppm TDS
-- Planning to buy the BRS 6 stage (75 GPD) but now will have to research if even able to handle (well) my tap water
Opus
2500 Club Member
Mine runs up to 450 and I run between 3 and 5 after the ro membrane. I use a spectrapure 99% rejection membrane. Going on 3 years and still works like new. I also don't flush since I don't believe it really does anything other than waste water.
Kristopher Conlin
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I have about 500 tds at the tap. I run a brs 6 stage 150gpd water saver with a booster which puts 12 tds into my resin. I recently added a third Di cartridge to run the pro series. If you start burning resin like crazy I would add on. I barely use any cation. And a anion cartridge will last me a quite a while.
SteveMM62Reef
Valuable Member
I have the BRS Six Stage, added the second membrane to bring it up to 150 GPD. I have a dedicated faucet on my laundry sink, it goes to a RO/DI Strainer, to the Booster Pump, Sediment Filter, Carbon Blocks, RO then to DI. Takes 35 to 40 minutes to fill 5.25 gallons Jug. I’m very happy with the BRS. Watch their videos on how to set up the RO/DI Every now and then, I’ll see an air bubble in the DI Cannister, and will slightly unscrew it to let the air escape.
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anthonygf
Valuable Member
Hi killerbren, so I tried the #1000 restrictor and the TDS went up almost double what I was getting with the #800. I put the 800 back in and the TDS number is better.
