RO rebuild

[scriptmonkey]

Good day reef2reef,

I believe my RO membrane has bit the dust. It all started with my auto-shutoff valve not shutting off. Luckily the float valve in my Brute was able slow it down till I checked it. I replaced the valve and I crossed the waste water and clean water lines coming out of the membrane housing. Got it sorted but now very little water now. The membrane is over year old so going to swap it.

So my first question, when I am breaking in the membrane, should I bypass the DI section for now so I am not chewing through my resin? I dont remember.

 

[KStatefan]

I would always bypass the DI resin until you know the RO system is working correct. I bypass the DI resin for 60 seconds or so to eliminate any TDS creep getting to the DI resin every time the system runs.

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Brs has a flush valve. I flush the membrane for a minute or 2 before each use.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/membrane-flush-valve.html

 

[JoshH]

Brs has a flush valve. I flush the membrane for a minute or 2 before each use.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/membrane-flush-valve.html

Flush valves are actually FAR more effective when used immediately after producing water. It's always recommended to flush the membrane after use to remove any build up. If done before and not after the build up on the membranes surface after use has a chance to harden which makes it far more difficult to remove via flushing.

@scriptmonkey Definately bypass your DI while breaking the membrane in and as @KStatefan has suggested above, it always helps to do it prior to running RO water through your DI every time you make new water to eliminate TDS creep and extend the life of your resin. If I might ask, what has you thinking your membrane is shot??

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Flush valves are actually FAR more effective when used immediately after producing water. It's always recommended to flush the membrane after use to remove any build up. If done before and not after the build up on the membranes surface after use has a chance to harden which makes it far more difficult to remove via flushing.

@scriptmonkey Definately bypass your DI while breaking the membrane in and as @KStatefan has suggested above, it always helps to do it prior to running RO water through your DI every time you make new water to eliminate TDS creep and extend the life of your resin. If I might ask, what has you thinking your membrane is shot??

Good to know. I was backwards all these years.

 

[JoshH]

Good to know. I was backwards all these years.

I'll be honest, I flush my membranes before AND after use regardless. With $160 in membranes it's not worth finding out which method is truly the best. But if one only feels like flushing once, after production is certainly more ideal for the reasons noted above.

 

[scriptmonkey]

Flush valves are actually FAR more effective when used immediately after producing water. It's always recommended to flush the membrane after use to remove any build up. If done before and not after the build up on the membranes surface after use has a chance to harden which makes it far more difficult to remove via flushing.

@scriptmonkey Definately bypass your DI while breaking the membrane in and as @KStatefan has suggested above, it always helps to do it prior to running RO water through your DI every time you make new water to eliminate TDS creep and extend the life of your resin. If I might ask, what has you thinking your membrane is shot??

Well it is producing very little water. It is just a very small trickle

 

[JoshH]

Well it is producing very little water. It is just a very small trickle

What size of membrane is it? And what type of flow restrictor do you have installed?

 

[KStatefan]

Good to know. I was backwards all these years.

Flush and bypasss seems to be a very misunderstood subject.

 

[scriptmonkey]

100 gallon membrane. If I remember correctly it is a green one. I bought it from marine depot it is their 4 stage klean water. It has a flush valve which I will admit I was not vigilant about.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

What the pressure at the membrane? Whats the water temp going into the ro system? Are you producing more than a 4:1 waste to clean ratio?

 

[JoshH]

/\
| All that

 

[scriptmonkey]

Pressure to the membrane is 60PSI, tested with rainbird and RO meter. Water is cold... my thermometer is putting it at 50.1*, thinking that is my problem. I would say the rejection is higher that 4:1 at the moment. Come on summer!

 

[scriptmonkey]

@JoshH, @DesertReefT4r , @KStatefan, @Mastiffsrule

Thank you guys for helping, I really appreciate it especially on a Sunday.

Tom

 

[JoshH]

@JoshH, @DesertReefT4r , @KStatefan, @Mastiffsrule

Thank you guys for helping, I really appreciate it especially on a Sunday.

Tom

No problem it being a Sunday means I actually have the time to respond lol. Also curious if you have replaced your carbon or sediment filters recently? And if Not, how old are They?

 

[scriptmonkey]

I replaced them 1/1. They shouldn't be due till 6/1. I replace them if they need it or not every 6 months, $17 twice a year is cheap insurance. I have another set coming in my order this week to be on deck.

 

[JoshH]

I replaced them 1/1. They shouldn't be due till 6/1. I replace them if they need it or not every 6 months, $17 twice a year is cheap insurance. I have another set coming in my order this week to be on deck.

I'm guessing you flush the carbon blocks on there own correct?

 

[scriptmonkey]

Nope...first I am hearing of this. Learning all kinds of stuff!

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

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Russ
513-312-2343