RO Systems
- Thread starter rob92
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MondoBongo
Community Member
i got a spectrapure 90GPD kit that was a factory refurb.
it has a hose adapter on it. the hose adapter connects to the quick connect HDPE line that feeds the unit.
they make these in other sizes, but from what i have seen 1/4" quick connect is the most common:
Garden Hose Adapter - Female Garden Hose x 1/4in Quick Connect Fitting
it has a hose adapter on it. the hose adapter connects to the quick connect HDPE line that feeds the unit.
they make these in other sizes, but from what i have seen 1/4" quick connect is the most common:
Garden Hose Adapter - Female Garden Hose x 1/4in Quick Connect Fitting
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rob92
Active Member
Thank you everyone for their help. I may be asking a lot of questions (different posts) and some of them may be somewhat the same, but I am taking in everyone's answers and replies and learning a lot.
DontMakeNoSense
Active Member
I'm running a vertex RO/DI system.
Any RO or RO/DI can be used portable with a garden hose or hose bib. Make sure though when you are done, bring it inside and storeit in a climate controlled place away from temperature extremes and bright lighting, use it at least every 10-14 days and always keep water in the housings so the membrane and DI resin stay wetted. You will not find a better system than the Spectrapure already suggested at any price. No other vendor specially treats and tests their RO membranes to improve their performance, uses absolute rated filters or custom blends all their own DI resins, and those are just a few of the differences
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rob92
Active Member
Well I'm thinking about getting an RO unit soon bit I have one question. I hate the fact that most of the ones I find are 90-98% waste water so I was wondering what would happen if I get two units and connect the waste line from the first one to the inlet line of the second unit. Would it work so that not so much water is wasted?
Dual membranes are not a water saver, the TDS that is removed must go somewhere and the 3:1 to 4:1 waste ratio is what keeps the membrane clean and flushed. Its really no big deal, the brine or waste goes down the drain and is recycled at the local treatment plant and recharged to be used over and over. The cost is also minimal, the average person spends about 5 cents a treated gallon when he owns his own RO/DI system and that includes water and sewer rates, replacement filters and replacement DI resin.
mcarroll
10K Club member
I think mathematically you might save a little running serial membranes - cleaning both membranes with one waste stream - but I wonder if you'd gain anything practically speaking. The TDS would be higher on the second membrane which would make it produce lower-quality water than the first membrane and which would clog the membrane more quickly.
Maybe as part of a larger scheme of improvements, but I don't think a second membrane on its own would be worth it. I'd run a second carbon stage to protect the single RO membrane before a second membrane. (In fact I do this.
)
-Matt
Maybe as part of a larger scheme of improvements, but I don't think a second membrane on its own would be worth it. I'd run a second carbon stage to protect the single RO membrane before a second membrane. (In fact I do this.
)-Matt
Reef Fever
Valuable Member
I just got a 100gpd ro buddie with di and it came with a faucet/hose adapter. So at its a great little unit and the size is great too
No need for a second carbon, you are better off with few filters in front of the membrane as long as they are quality filters. A single 0.5, 0.6 or 1.0 absolute rated carbon block is more than sufficient for 12,000 to 20,000 gallons of normally chlorinated or chloraminated water and has less headloss to the membrane than multiple carbons so the rejection rate and the GPD will be higher. Everything you place in front of the membrane has an associated headloss whcih reduces the membrane efficiency and ends up costing you more over the life of the system.
mcarroll
10K Club member
Now that you mention it, I meant to but never have added a pressure gauge to see what it's like in the RO housing.
I inherited a filter system that has three canisters before the membrane, one after. Since there's no real way to gauge when carbon has expired, I like the "backup canister" as long as pressure remains good at the membrane...which I've always wondered about.
I think Spectrapure has an add-on gauge kit I'm gonna have to look at adding.
-Matt
I inherited a filter system that has three canisters before the membrane, one after. Since there's no real way to gauge when carbon has expired, I like the "backup canister" as long as pressure remains good at the membrane...which I've always wondered about.
I think Spectrapure has an add-on gauge kit I'm gonna have to look at adding.
-Matt
Actually it is easy to monitor the cabon condition with a low range chlorine test kit and the inline pressure gauge. You monitor for chlorine breakthru in the finished water with the kit amd you monitor the headloss or pressure drop with the gauge comparing the static or non flowing pressure with the flowing pressure. If you want to get real precise you remove the carbon and test the pressure with only the sediment filter in place then remove the sediment and monitor the pressure with only the carbon in place. If you are using quality filters or approx the same micron rating such as Spectrapures 0.5 micron absolute rated sediment filter and 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block they will more than likely start to plug or foul about the same time. If you use the coarse 5 or 10 micron nominal rated versions like some other vendors then your carbon will foul or plug much quicker than the sediment filter since it is about s effective as a screen door for protecting the tiny pores in the carbon where the chlorine is adsorbed. You can see 40 microns with the unaided human eye so 5 or 10 microns is really pretty darn big and passes right through and loads the carbon up which is why sone use multiple carbons, the first is an expensive sacrificial filter and makes no sense.
Duffam3434
**TASTE THE RAINBOW**
Quick question on these, I've been looking into picking one of these units up. I've heard that it takes several gallons to make a single gallon of R/O water.. Can anyone fill me in on this?
The average RO or RO/DI system has a 4:1 waste ratio meaning it produces 4 gallons of brine or waste for each 1 gallon of treated water. If you have softened water and lower than normal TDS you can reduce that to 3:1 or in rarer cases 2:1 and still experience good membrane and DI life if you use quality filters such as Spectrapures absolute rated filters.
