Ro unit help and advice

AquaJunkie

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I'm not sure what is available in the UK but look for a system that uses full size replacement filters in vertical clear canisters. The small "portable" type systems usually end up costing you more and water quality is not as good. The filters are smaller, do not treat the same amount of water, need replacing more often, do not come in the preferred micron ranges, usually cost more and are harder to find. The yreally are not any smaller either, they take up the same footprint, just a few inches shorter height.
 
Yes you want DI. The RO membrae does 90-98% of the wark but it takes a good DI to finish off the final TDS. RO by itself is not particularly good at some things like nitrates, phosphates and silicates so adding DI ensure you get good 0 TDS water.
 
I made this video a while back, hopefully it helps.

[video=youtube;3ZUPtt-H-kk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZUPtt-H-kk&feature=player_detailpage[/video]
 
The DI is always the last stage, it is a final polishing to remove what the carbon and RO membrane miss. It should only have to do about 2-10% of the work while the membrane acts as pretreatment for the DI and does 90-98+% of the work. DI would exhaust very quickly if it were first.

The system you linked to will work fine. One change I would make though is remove the horizontal DI filter from the top bracket and mount it vertically on the side with the RO wate rgoing IN the bottom and treated RO/DI coming OUT the top so the water does not channel or short circuit along the bottom of the filter taking the path of least resistance like it does horizontally. You will get longer DI life and better water quality since the water will be coming into contact with all the resin if it fills from the bottom and pushes out the top.
 
Last edited:
I made this video a while back, hopefully it helps.

[video=youtube;3ZUPtt-H-kk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZUPtt-H-kk&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

Thanks, this video defo helps me understand it a lot better!
 
The DI is always the last stage, it is a final polishing to remove what the carbon and RO membrane miss. It should only have to do about 2-10% of the work while the membrane acts as pretreatment for the DI and does 90-98+% of the work. DI would exhaust very quickly if it were first.

The system you linked to will work fine. One change I would make though is remove the horizontal DI filter from the top bracket and mount it vertically on the side with the RO wate rgoing IN the bottom and treated RO/DI coming OUT the top so the water does not channel or short circuit along the bottom of the filter taking the path of least resistance like it does horizontally. You will get longer DI life and better water quality since the water will be coming into contact with all the resin if it fills from the bottom and pushes out the top.

They have one with the vertical di too but that cost a little more.

I was trying to keep prices low as its only a 10g but I'm already paying double what I was originally planning on spending lol
 
Your reef will thank you. The additional initial cost will more than return itself in higher efficiency and less DI replacements. The little throw away filters will cost you more, do not last as long and do not work as well. One or two replacements and you hav already cost yourself more than if you had bought the better RO/DI system guaranteed. The throw away DI's hold somewhere between 9 and 12 ounces of resin ,so as much as 16. The vertical holds 20 oz when packed properly and can be refilled with bulk resin which is much cheaper than throw aways so lasts longer and costs less to operate. Its worth the initial difference and then some.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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