RO Unit ID

[Javor91]

Went to an estate sale and found this RO unit, anyone know what brand or where I can find information on it? I don't see any other labels on it other than the one pictured. Let me know what you think. Phone picture, my apologies.

 

[cdness]

Looks like standard 10" cartridge filters... Standard RO membrane... No idea on the branding though.

 

[Javor91]

I'm not sure which line would be the waste line and which one would be the filtered water... thoughts? && appreciate the input.

 

[mic209]

I don't know what brand the unit is, but the brand of an RO/DI unit does not really matter as the filter cartridges and membranes are universal. For example, you can run filters made for a spectrapure unit in a bulk reef suply unit and vice versa. This applies for almost all RO unit brands that are sold for the hobby. Kind of hard to tell which lines are which from your picture, can you post a better picture?

 

[Javor91]

Here are two more pictures, the two lines on the left (on top and then the level below it) are the ones that are in question. The other one has a faucet hook up so it's easily identifiable . One line is clear and the other is white if that makes any difference..

p.s. no idea why they keep posting sideways.

 

[cdness]

The one with the pink on the connector is the waste water line...

You should see if the top cartridge is a carbon or DI cartridge. If Carbon, remove it and add a vertical DI canister in it's place. I believe this is a drinking water RO filter. The top cartridge would be for taste.

 

[Javor91]

Awesome thanks i'll have a look at that top piece. I've never seen what a DI cartridge looks like but I'm sure there are pictures floating online.

 

[Javor91]

Was looking at BRS and they have refillable cartridge for DI resin, is this what I would replace the top with if it ends up being carbon or is that a different canister I need to use?

 

[mic209]

The top housing will not fit a standard 10" DI cartridge, so the ones BRS sells will not work. What you should do is get rid of the top cartridge entirely. Run a sediment filter in the bottom housing on the right, a carbon block in the middle and run a DI cartridge in the bottom housing to the left. If you do this, you're going to have to change the hoses around some. You should also replace the RO membrane to a higher GPD unit and get the correct flow restrictor.

 

[Javor91]

So you suggest I change this unit entirely?

 

[mic209]

So you suggest I change this unit entirely?

No, just replace all the filters cartridges with new ones and get rid of the filter on the very top. Here's what I would go with:


http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/SEDIMENT-CARBON-FILTERS-DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN/Filt-Replacement-Kits

And this for the RO membrane


http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/MEM...Std-RO-Membranes/Standard-100-GPD-RO-Membrane


With this flow restrictor

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/MEM...w-Restrictors/Standard-90-GPD-Flow-Restrictor


You would use the sediment in the housing to the right, the carbon block in the middle and the DI to the left. Then you would take the output from the middle housing and plug that into the shut off valve where the output from the far left housing is plugged into now. Then you would take the RO water and plug that into the input of the left housing which would now be your DI and the output from there will be your pure water.

 

[AZDesertRat]

What you have there is a standard ebay vendor type RO drinking water system. The small horizontal filter on top is a post RO granular carbon taste and odor filter, not a DI.
I might caution you on which membrane it has, many ebay type vendors use either the Dow Filmtec 100 GPD 90% rejection rate nano filter, not an RO membrane rated at 96-98% removal or generic, imported membranes rated about the same and will eat DI quickly if you have very high tap water TDS. You can unscrew the membrane housing end and remove the membrane for inspection.

As mic209 mentions, you can easily replumb what you have and make it a RO/DI if you are at all handy and have maybe 30 minutes to an hour time. The issue though is you will probably have more invested in what you have than a new reef quality RO/DI would cost you and it would come with things like an inline pressure gauge, clear housings and high quality fittings, membrane, filters and resin in a refillable full size vertical DI.

Add up the cost of a membrane, flow restrictor, 1 micron or smaller sediment filter, 1 micron or less carbon block, full size 20 oz refillable DI, inline pressure gauge kit and maybe $15-$20 in assorted fittings to reconfigure it for reef use and drinking water versus the $140-$150 for a new system.