RO unit install problem.

[Saltar]

Bought a Aquarium Life Support System unit yesterday instructions are crap without images. Here is how I installed it. The yellow was already on the unit I installed the blue. I thought the blue was the good water but it is only a trickle and 90 % of the water is coming out of the yellow. Is this right?

 

[Ramathorn937]

The trickle is most likely the water for your tank, the other is the waste water. But you can check for sure with a TDS meter the higher TDS is waste water

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

[kschweer]

The yellow line with the flow restricter is the waste water line. Most RO units run a 4:1 waste water to product water ratio. This is why more water is coming out of the waste line.

 

[Saltar]

Ok that makes sense. Thank you for the help!


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

 

[Saltar]

My unit is running at about 45PSI is this ok for a new unit?

 

[Mike J.]

45 PSI isn't real good. 60-70 would be better. The less pressure you have the more waste you're going to have.

 

[Mike J.]

After a little thought I'd like to edit my answer. Over 50 psi is recommended to run a R/O unit. Generally under 40 psi will result in low flow rate which causes low rejection rate, which results in high TDS in product water. I'd recommend that you test your product water with a TDS meter.

 

[Ramathorn937]

The PSI has to do with the water pressure at your connection.

For example, at my old place on full blast I was around 60... at my new place, I hooked it up and turned the valve halfway and looked up and it was well over 80. So I turned it down, and am currently running it at 70 psi

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

[stunreefer Verified Sponsor]

You really ought to add a DI chamber after the RO effluent (output). This will bring the TDS down to 0.

With that said you may already have one that's not pictured

 

[Saltar]

I do not have a DI unit. How at risk am I without having one? Would this cause serious harm to my tank? I am going to purchase a TDS to see what I currently have for water readings.

 

[kschweer]

For the couple extra buck it will cost I would recommend purchasing a DI stage.

 

[Ramathorn937]

Depending on your local water, you could be getting decent water without the DI stage, for instance, out of my membrane my TDS is around 34, but 0 out of my DI, 0 is what you're looking for, anything over 0 is going to add phosphates and other metals to your water, these can inhibit algae growth, and nobody likes algae.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

[Mike J.]

Depending on your local water, you could be getting decent water without the DI stage, for instance, out of my membrane my TDS is around 34, but 0 out of my DI, 0 is what you're looking for, anything over 0 is going to add phosphates and other metals to your water, these can inhibit algae growth, and nobody likes algae.

Sent from my Galaxy S3

Inhibit means to suppress or restrain - wrong word. Why turn down your water pressure, more is better. Well, up to 115 psi is okay. My TDS before DI is 2 - 4. If I didn't think that your RO/DI was brand new I'd suggest that you change your filters.

 

[Ramathorn937]

My bad, I guess the right word would be induce, or provoke, allow, cause, start, introduce

Sent from my Galaxy S3

 

[Saltar]

Yes brand new unit. I actually added a sediment filter before I go into the RO unit. It is to the left in the first picture. So I going to take out the sediment filter in the new RO unit and replace it with a DI unit. I guess my water pressure is just bad will look at ways to bump this up.

 

[AZDesertRat]

You do understand to make that and RO/DI it will take some replumbing of the canisters, not simply placing a DI cartridge in the canister don't you? Its not much of a job and pretty inexpensive but really you should have installed a DI cartridge in the new canister and placed it on the end, much easier, cheaper and no plumbing alterations required.

If you keep the added sediment filter in front make sure it is a low micron reef quality sediment filter and not a low end high micron drinking water sediment filter. Your carbon will plug or foul if the micron range is too high and render the carbon useless.

 

[Saltar]

If I take out the sediment in the unit and put the carbon there and then the DI filter where the carbon is will that work?


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

 

[AZDesertRat]

No. The sediment filter and the carbon block are both plumbed in front of the RO membrane to protect it from sediment, silt, colloidal materials, chlorine and volatiles. A DI filter goes after the RO membrane. The RO does 90-98% of the TDS removal and acts as pretreatment for the deionization resin resin which does the remaining 2-10% of the TDS removal.

You will need to remove the two canisters from the top bracket, unscrew the nylon threaded nipple that connects them together and turn the two canister lids so the In and Out now face front to back rather than side to side. You would then plumb the tap water from your new add on sediment filter to the first canister which would contain the carbon block. Form there the carbon Out would go up to the RO membrane on the end with a single 1/4" line going in. The treated RO water would exit out the blue line and then enter the other canister In line which would now contain your DI cartridge, then out to your RO/DI storage or ATO reservoir. Sounds complicated but really isn't, but it would still be much easier to use the canister you purchased on treated RO water and install a DI cartridge. No more fittings to buy and no replumbing of the RO system, just some modifications to your PVC which is easier.

 

[Saltar]

Now I understand. I will just purchase a DI single unit and be done with it. Thanks for the help!


Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

 

[AZDesertRat]

Don't leave the two sediment filters in front of the RO membrane unless you have unusual sediment of silt problems. Every filter tha is placed in front of the membrane has an associated pressure loss which reduces the efficiency or both rejection rate and GPD of the RO membrane. Dow Filmtec charts go as low as 40 psi but when you increase the pressure to 60-80 or even 100 psi the removal efficiency or rejection rate rises dramatically. One good 1 micron or less and preferrably absolute rated sediment filter and one 1 micron or smaller carbon block, no more no less.
The other thing you will want to do is measure your waste ratio, brine or waste vesrsus treated. measure using a measuring cup or graduated container and a watch or clock fofr exactly one minute from each and hopefully it is very close to 4:1 waste to treated. If not you will want to get a capillary tube flow restrictor and follow the directions on how to adjust it to 4:1 for best membrane life and performance. I hate the fixed type flow restrictors as they are rarely correct.