Ro with no Di resin attached

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Zos4me

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Will it throw the tank into fit if I just have the ro stage going and not the Di resin stage attached.Just a curious question. Trying to eliminate the cause of a tank issue
 
The answer to this is a little more nuanced I think than simply a yes or no. It depends on what's actually in your tap water to begin with. Can you share what you hope to solve by not using it? Some context on the issue you have?

Using DI is really low on the likely list of candidates to cause any tank issue. Not having it could become a likely candidate for causing more issues in the not too distant future, which could aggravate whatever it is you're already trying to solve.
 
Well I ran the whole system at my other house but when I set it up here I didn't have any resin so I didn't put it up. My torch and duncan and frogspawn are sucked in and I'm not sure why. Ph was a little low. Dkh around 9 .I need to test calcium and phosphates but I have no algae growth on glass so I'm thinking they are low. I did adjust lights today to run more blue and less white so I'll see if that has any effect. Gonna hook up the di and test calcium tomorrow
 
Will it throw the tank into fit if I just have the ro stage going and not the Di resin stage attached.Just a curious question. Trying to eliminate the cause of a tank issue
RO water still has dissolved minerals in it. DI removes these and makes the water almost pure which eliminates a lot of variables that are found in tap water that we do not want to introduce into the aquarium. In a fish only system, this is less critical than an invertebrate (coral) system where keeping the inputs into the tank is very important to the health of our reefs.

If you have low mineral tap water it might be an almost moot point but if you have the junk that flows in the pipes here in California then DI is much more critical.
 
All my zoanthids seem fine and my xenia are growing like weeds.its ths euphyllia that are suffering.
 
The missing DI could well be the culprit there. Every coral is going to have a different tolerance level to changes, including lighting. Moving a tank is also a big stresser. I would get the DI in, do a few small water changes and then leave things alone for a few weeks, no changes to light or flow and keep the chemistry as stable as you can.
 
Deionizing resin will remove minerals and heavy metals such as iron and sulfates, etc... These can build up in a tank over time. Silica and silicates are also removed by DI.

Most municipal water supplies use chlorine or chloramines to disinfect water supplies and lines. What your carbon block miss, DI resin can help remove some of these.

Marine life in general are very sensitive to these contaminates, use of DI resin is a must in my book.
 

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