Rocket Engineer's tank stand plans

somechinesereefer

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
May 21, 2008
Messages
99
Reaction score
20
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I feel stupid for asking but I couldnt find any info on this. For Rocket Engineers tank stand plans...how do you attach the top frame to the pink legs? and the bottom frame? Are the green screw strips the only things connecting the two together? I placed black dots where screws should go, is this correct? And should I use wood glue to connect them before screwing?

Capture.PNG
 
Some people use pocket screws (Kreg), but I simply screwed the outer legs (pink) to the inner legs (green).

OurStand.jpg

Is your middle brace flush with the rest of the frame at the top so the tank rests directly on it?

Also, your two additional braces at the bottom frame, are those for placing a sump on top of? Are you directly placing it on there or are you putting plywood on top of it first?
 
I highly recommend topping the stand with plywood to "level" out the dimensional lumber. My preference is 3/4 plywood.

To answer your questions, yes, the middle brace is flush with the top frame. And Yes to the second question, the cross braces are to help support a sump that will sit on a plywood floor. Here's the stand before painting.

Stand Skinned without Paint.jpg
 
You pink boards should be tightly between the top and bottom frames. Your green ones would run all the way top to bottom. Glue and screw works best. If you have ever framed, think of the green and pink boards as King and Jack studs. That how I built my stand for my 120
 
I used this design to help with my stand too. Like others said, you’ll want to use pocket screws to attach the top and bottom. The Kreg pocket tool is an awesome tool for this purpose. I attached the green pieces with screws and wood glue.

I have some pictures and a summary of how I built my stand in my build thread.
 
My only suggestion would be to leave the bottom cross braces out. The sump can sit directly on the bottom plywood without any problem. In fact, doing it that way gives you another 3 1/2" of vertical space inside the stand. If you then seal around the perimeter (I use FlexSeal) any spills inside the stand will be contained, rather than running out onto the floor.
 
My only suggestion would be to leave the bottom cross braces out. The sump can sit directly on the bottom plywood without any problem. In fact, doing it that way gives you another 3 1/2" of vertical space inside the stand. If you then seal around the perimeter (I use FlexSeal) any spills inside the stand will be contained, rather than running out onto the floor.

Yes, this will work too....assuming your sump fits between the dimensional lumber. And what I like about this stand is that if you put down a plywood base all the way at the bottom, and seal the edges, it will catch any water spills. However, for me, my DT is 18 inches wide and my sump is 18 inches wide (50G), and that left me with about an inch of room with the sump all the way up against the back wall. So I had to put mine on top of the dimensional lumber.

H1_uVHQs4gf9aU8BhJ7Ji3OQqgoCkUL7KM8wNb1EpEdv2Y9EdUp49iUdeGbD7wPTFZ5UwPCkhPLl650TH8O5qUVYDIK-rqnXmTgeVgMF2t_S3iUjsE8tE5J41WSygO-OV_CNh6n-dbHMuKXdjaDq97M69eLBu4WHTXjkqnQCFvYlZmSz-6ftXHVPCpQ3XTMr6iLbhrzgXZiHZwxJxEKOaJXxAelwsq6E7vbKOJYdXY8ji5L61ZCYBpkbf0LJDLLdrcValX2DYrqQCshJgnJFeZ7FFOaMAWQHP1qxAbDaPWzqdRZcEdohGLkfJjAvE5LihIiQ9v-tQ31TrVHn0nno9nhgX_qeCqkDrAIxzvBaffnqsiBwLOQvj5ZZZxziZAqCL7juY8fRnIqfpLPSSFpJ_ytXy2Eg_YtfW8c8KduvesSTor2rYF7gm7rYktEyJAL_YCvR2lYqNnPhf4G5QjBooXpBSAnJtYW5u23Y_ZyFM5SxOB6Xhu75sPXiRqRC-p_9N36cd5odcGIjYmROm5MAl49wl8N85nrUW-q0552W1N5o8T-uNwpTbtFD3UVC_R85D0XujeddgoyRG8ArNxXbYq5Tf6nS62R_nHagXpd50VykrwGP4Gfc1DZC7glKrIcZKxGeoBHgZ6a72xZa7hvU0lX2lSXtf-p_e6M_pIGMOMxAz8J_jpUDumc=w1100-h657-no
 
I feel stupid for asking but I couldnt find any info on this. For Rocket Engineers tank stand plans...how do you attach the top frame to the pink legs? and the bottom frame? Are the green screw strips the only things connecting the two together? I placed black dots where screws should go, is this correct? And should I use wood glue to connect them before screwing?

Capture.PNG
I intended for the use of deck screws so there was no direct connection between the legs and to frames. However, as redfishbluefish pointed out, the use of pocket screws offers a better option but requires different screws. Builder's choice really.

You have to love it when, out of the blue, the designer pops in!
 
I intended for the use of deck screws so there was no direct connection between the legs and to frames. However, as redfishbluefish pointed out, the use of pocket screws offers a better option but requires different screws. Builder's choice really.

Wow, the legend himself!!!
 
It amazes me how popular that thread became. Glad it helped.

Whoa! So I wasn't an R2R member when I was doing research and building my stand back in the summer/fall of 2018. So a bit late, but thank you for that thread! It was a big help with my stand for my 90 gallon tank. I've received a lot of compliments from family and friends on my stand.
 
Jumping in here for a thread a couple months old....

Where in the design is everything glued? Just any surface two pieces of wood come together? I found a detailed write up from someone from CFLAS however it just said the glue is where the strength comes from while the screws hold it together.

Just making sure my first 100% DIY stand doesn't come crashing down. My woodworking FIL would shun me and I just want to avoid that as much as losing my frag tank.

Thanks for any suggestions you all have.
 
Jumping in here for a thread a couple months old....

Where in the design is everything glued? Just any surface two pieces of wood come together? I found a detailed write up from someone from CFLAS however it just said the glue is where the strength comes from while the screws hold it.

The key areas to glue are where the inside leg hits the inside of the top and bottom boxes. This is where most of the twisting forces will go so glue there is ideal. Otherwise, any place two boards touch doesn’t hurt.
 
The key areas to glue are where the inside leg hits the inside of the top and bottom boxes. This is where most of the twisting forces will go so glue there is ideal. Otherwise, any place two boards touch doesn’t hurt.

Thanks for taking time still on this topic... I know it must get old. Appreciate the help!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top