RODI Beginner Questions
- Thread starter sudman
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Yes indeed
di has a shelf life of six months. you can still use it but you might burn through them pretty quickly. you still got a good deal regardless. you want the sediment and carbon filters to be .5 microns each, those are the best ones. do you know the names of the di carts?
i would next sanitize the unit, install everything and post all of the new numbers you get. if the sediment and carbon were badly clogged, that would cause low psi.
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i would only buy spectrapure, but you may not need one. check the psi after you change the filters.
and i would check to see if there’s a flow restrictor in your flush assembly. it would be inside the hose that doesn’t have the valve in it. the flow restrictor controls your waste/product ratio.
the next step would be talking about a booster pump. but i know of several people who run theirs at 40psi. it’s not ideal or economical, but no harm if you can’t afford the correct booster pump right now.
On well water you DO NOT need carbon block.
Everyone has different size contaminates. Worth it to do a lil experimenting. Maybe try 5 micron first in-line, followed by a 1 micron. If 5 micron clogs quickly try 10 micron first. You get the idea. The smaller the micron before it hits your membrane, the longer your membrane will last.
On well water you can adjust your household water pressure some at well head pump.
For 90gpd membrane you should shoot for at least 45 psi. The more gpd the membrane, the higher the psi needs to be. If you can’t get 45 psi after adjusting your well pump pressure tank you could also consider a 75 gpd membrane instead of a booster pump, which will work fine on 40psi. You will also need a new 75gpd flow restrictor to match that 75 gpd membrane.
Spectrapure has internal flow restrictor which can be adjusted
Everyone has different size contaminates. Worth it to do a lil experimenting. Maybe try 5 micron first in-line, followed by a 1 micron. If 5 micron clogs quickly try 10 micron first. You get the idea. The smaller the micron before it hits your membrane, the longer your membrane will last.
On well water you can adjust your household water pressure some at well head pump.
For 90gpd membrane you should shoot for at least 45 psi. The more gpd the membrane, the higher the psi needs to be. If you can’t get 45 psi after adjusting your well pump pressure tank you could also consider a 75 gpd membrane instead of a booster pump, which will work fine on 40psi. You will also need a new 75gpd flow restrictor to match that 75 gpd membrane.
Spectrapure has internal flow restrictor which can be adjusted
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Based on the advice both of you shared I looked it up and the manual says the following , what would you recommend i do ?
pull out the restrictor and see which type it is.
also, you DO want to still run a carbon filter with well water and you want the micron size to be .5, not 5 and certainly not 10!!! you also do not NEED to have 45psi, as previously stated, spectrapure units are rated at 40psi min.
40 psi is boarderline ok for 90gpd membrane. Once filters get slightly used, as they should, you’re below psi you need to be at. It’s simple physics, unless spectrapure does some magic.
Carbon blocks are to remove types of fluorides and chlorides the municipalities add to water to halt bacteria growth. These contaminates will harm the membrane and are not caught by particle filter. What is it you need to run them for on well water?
spectrapure does perform magic!
spectrapure carbon filters also remove some vocs. this may not apply to everyone on well water, but if you haven't had your water tested, it's not something i would risk. especially since the op has a 5 stage rodi.
Thank you all so much for sharing your valuable opinions with me hear . I have learned a lot rom each of you !
At this rage given the readings I am getting but also knowing that the sediment filter is 5 years old, what is going to do better for my Gallons per day production ?
Replacing the sediment and carbon filter OR buying a booster pump ? If you could only pick one .
new filters first. you will also ruin your membrane if you run it with clogged sediment and carbon filters.
Yup, physics defying magic, lol. At 40 psi for a 90gpd op will have continued problems or will be changing cartridges and membranes why more often then need be. You were the one who said spectra claims 40 psi minimum, so what happens when filters start to clog, umm, psi goes down below their minimum claim.
If you’re gonna need carbon to remove vocs, than you need catalytic carbon, and would say the house’s water smells, and all there neighbors would be aware of it. It’s also usually only needed or useful in filters with hi flow, which RODI units are not. And of course they won’t damage the membrane anywhere as much as chlorides and fluorides will.
They also will not show up on tds reading , just as chlorides and fluorides won’t, and even s catalytic carbon might not get every or all of it. Knowing that many, or most vocs will dissipate at room temperature, and/or with aeration, regardless should really test water and determine type and amount before deciding that carbon is enough, and would be more concerned with showering or drinking where the water doesn’t have time to sit and aerate as it would in collection container, or fish tank.
With that said, vocs are much more a problem with city water, and on well water he almost certainly does not need carbon block.
if the psi dips below what they recommend then you may have issues with filter life and production of product water. but his isn't lower than 40psi.
with spectrapure's carbon filter, you don't need catalytic carbon.
you're bringing up a lot of ifs/ands/buts. and while you may be correct technically (as am i), this isn't an issue for the op since he most likely hasn't had his water testing. and YES, i personally still recommend carbon filters for well water unless you've had your water tested. just because certain vocs will evaporate at room temperatures - it doesn't mean it won't still foul the downstream filters AND not everybody keeps their water at room temperatures.
here's a good article for you to read: https://www.skillingsandsons.com/blog/well-water-contaminants-faq-organic-chemicals-vocs
Not “if ands or buts”. More like probablies, likelies, and certainlies. What you say about vocs is true, just certainly not likely or probable. An article on why you should add a filter from a company that provides that service, lol, really.
Anyway. Don’t want to derail op’s thread. Thanks for the article.
My friends , I just ran the RODI unit for 1 minute with no sediment filter . The PSI remained 40. Does this mean that the sediment filter is not the problem and more likely I would just need a booster pump ?
Where is the pressure gauge?
Should be after all pre-membrane cartridges, before the membrane. If so take out all pre-membrane cartridges and see what ya got
Is unit connected to end of faucet where water comes out, or to valve where water supplies faucet, or on saddle valve tapped into pipe that supplies faucet?
Did you up water pressure for house?
Should be after all pre-membrane cartridges, before the membrane. If so take out all pre-membrane cartridges and see what ya got
Is unit connected to end of faucet where water comes out, or to valve where water supplies faucet, or on saddle valve tapped into pipe that supplies faucet?
Did you up water pressure for house?
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