pharazon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2018
- Messages
- 496
- Reaction score
- 816
- What state or country do you live in
- California
Hello reef fam,
This post is basically an account of my personal experience with the ultimate goal of helping someone who may end up searching for this on the future (as I recently did.)
My RODI is on the second story and as such has always been afflicted with low water pressure. I’ve been running an a booster pump for my RODI for years. Initially, we rented this home, so I used the faucet adapter as it was less “permanent.” We ended up buying the place in 2020 so I “hard plumbed” the unit underneath the sink of a guest bathroom. Everything was great except.. running the booster pump caused serious pipe knocking/water hammer noise.
I’ve always kept small tanks and my water production wasn’t very large, so I just kind of accepted it as a once/twice a month nuisance for a couple hours. However, I recently upgraded from a total water volume of 50 gallons between all tanks to over 100 gallons, and as a result I’ve been making more water. In addition to that, we had some plumbing work done and I’ve become much more aware/concerned about preserving our home plumbing’s integrity.
So I started researching, and despite not getting a lot of hits on “booster pump makes my pipes rattle,” or “RODI system sounds like a jet taking off from my roof,” the general consensus was moving the booster from directly off the house plumbing to AFTER the sediment/carbon stages. The results?
Holy smokes! The system is sooooo much quieter, with the only noise coming from the vibrations of the booster pump. In addition, the RO efficiency seems to have doubled - previously I would get, at best, 7-9 TDI into the DI stages. This is with trash California tap water (4-500 TDS year round.)
Now, in addition to a SIGNIFICANTLY quieter system, I’m getting 3-4 TDS into the DI stages consistently.
So for anyone who finds themselves in the same situation as I did, please - plumb your booster pump AFTER the prefilters. You’ll have a quieter system with less wear on both your home plumbing AND your DI resin.
This post is basically an account of my personal experience with the ultimate goal of helping someone who may end up searching for this on the future (as I recently did.)
My RODI is on the second story and as such has always been afflicted with low water pressure. I’ve been running an a booster pump for my RODI for years. Initially, we rented this home, so I used the faucet adapter as it was less “permanent.” We ended up buying the place in 2020 so I “hard plumbed” the unit underneath the sink of a guest bathroom. Everything was great except.. running the booster pump caused serious pipe knocking/water hammer noise.
I’ve always kept small tanks and my water production wasn’t very large, so I just kind of accepted it as a once/twice a month nuisance for a couple hours. However, I recently upgraded from a total water volume of 50 gallons between all tanks to over 100 gallons, and as a result I’ve been making more water. In addition to that, we had some plumbing work done and I’ve become much more aware/concerned about preserving our home plumbing’s integrity.
So I started researching, and despite not getting a lot of hits on “booster pump makes my pipes rattle,” or “RODI system sounds like a jet taking off from my roof,” the general consensus was moving the booster from directly off the house plumbing to AFTER the sediment/carbon stages. The results?
Holy smokes! The system is sooooo much quieter, with the only noise coming from the vibrations of the booster pump. In addition, the RO efficiency seems to have doubled - previously I would get, at best, 7-9 TDI into the DI stages. This is with trash California tap water (4-500 TDS year round.)
Now, in addition to a SIGNIFICANTLY quieter system, I’m getting 3-4 TDS into the DI stages consistently.
So for anyone who finds themselves in the same situation as I did, please - plumb your booster pump AFTER the prefilters. You’ll have a quieter system with less wear on both your home plumbing AND your DI resin.
