RODI Cartridge/Membrane Replacement Help

[jshafer81]

I've been digging through threads for a few days and just cannot fully wrap my head around what my best bet for updating my RODI would be. I have an older 5-stage Air, Water, Ice unit that I believe is still physically functioning ok, but my output TDS is now up around 6 (comes in at 160). Production is way down (like 10 gallons per day) and I'm getting more algae growth in my tank lately with no other changes. It's been 3-4 years, so I'm way past due regardless as I see it. Planning to just change out all five stages and need advice. Getting lost in all the micron sizes! My city water runs chloramine, which also seems to be a consideration now. It sounds like Spectrapure are the most highly recommended option, but beyond that I'm lost. I appreciate advice on the most current best options from Spectrapure (or BRS where I last ordered from). Also, are there any other components to the physical unit that need to be changed over time?

Thanks!

 

[JoshH]

Definately a solid option going with spectrapure, aside from the 90GPD 99% rejection membrane, 0.5 Micron carbon and sediment filters are ideal but nothing wrong with the 1 Micron size either. I would probably stick with the 0.5, it's what I went with on my system after using the 1 for a couple years.

Can I ask, how often do you change your sediment and carbon filters?

A reduction in production that drastic is probably due to clogged sediment/carbon blocks.

 

[jshafer81]

I haven't changed anything in 3-4 years, with some gaps in the where I barely used it after a couple tank crashes.. Tank is doing well again and I'm trying to be more conscientious about all maintenance and making water this slowly is making water changes hard!

So the following should work?

• .5 micron Sediment (any benefit with the String-Wound version? )
• .5 micron Carbon (two of these)
• Color-changing SuperDI (tons of options here were confusing me)
• 90gpd Membrane (any strong value to the more expensive 99% rejection Plus style?)

 

[JoshH]

I haven't changed anything in 3-4 years, with some gaps in the where I barely used it after a couple tank crashes.. Tank is doing well again and I'm trying to be more conscientious about all maintenance and making water this slowly is making water changes hard!

So the following should work?

• .5 micron Sediment (any benefit with the String-Wound version? )
• .5 micron Carbon (two of these)
• Color-changing SuperDI (tons of options here were confusing me)
• 90gpd Membrane (any strong value to the more expensive 99% rejection Plus style?)

Everything looks good to me, I've honestly never used the wound version so I'm not sure what the benefits could be someone else will have to chime in on that. DI would depend greatly on how many DI sections you have and what type of TDS that's making it's way past the membrane. @cromag27 might be able to shed a little more light on what would be best.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

I've been digging through threads for a few days and just cannot fully wrap my head around what my best bet for updating my RODI would be. I have an older 5-stage Air, Water, Ice unit that I believe is still physically functioning ok, but my output TDS is now up around 6 (comes in at 160). Production is way down (like 10 gallons per day) and I'm getting more algae growth in my tank lately with no other changes. It's been 3-4 years, so I'm way past due regardless as I see it. Planning to just change out all five stages and need advice. Getting lost in all the micron sizes! My city water runs chloramine, which also seems to be a consideration now. It sounds like Spectrapure are the most highly recommended option, but beyond that I'm lost. I appreciate advice on the most current best options from Spectrapure (or BRS where I last ordered from). Also, are there any other components to the physical unit that need to be changed over time?

Thanks!

what are all of your tds ratings? in, our, in and out.

when was the last time you changed your sediment and carbon?

 

[JoshH]

what are all of your tds ratings? in, our, in and out.

when was the last time you changed your sediment and carbon?

I believe from the OP he's working with 160 In 6 out of RO and then DI down to 0.

I also believe that he hasn't changed his Sediment and carbon in a few years. Which I was going to address in a later post

 

[Water Dog]

Just to clarify, is the OP getting 6 tds post RO membrane or 6 post DI stage?

 

[JoshH]

Just to clarify, is the OP getting 6 tds post RO membrane or 6 post DI stage?

From what I've read, yes, which is still technically within operating specs of most membranes at that time (96.25%). But I'm guessing why he's asking about a good replacement as 6 isn't really ideal

 

[theMeat]

After 3-4 years you need new sediment and carbon block. Probably di resin, and maybe a new membrane as well.
If you had/have color changing di resin check the color. If it’s brown/tan change it.
You can check your membrane. Should have 96% rejection rate or better. Check tds right before membrane, and right after, do the math. Being you haven’t changed your carbon for so long it’s likely spent.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/5-stage-ro-di-replacement-filter-kit-bulk-reef-supply.html

Brs also has membranes. Check the gpd size of your membrane so your flow restrictor will match. Good idea to get a new flow restrictor, with integrated flush valve, as well as replace auto shut off valve whenever you change membrane, or every 4-5 years or so. If you change the size of your membrane you will need to change the size of your flow restrictor, and if you don’t have 50 psi would not go bigger than 75gpd

 

[alton]

"My city water runs chloramine" Check your free and total chlorine with test strips. My rural water supply is higher than my pool levels. I ran through 10" carbon filters like candy, and then goes the membrane. I ended up with the BRS monster 20" x 4". Other companies sell the same thing.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-reverse-osmosis-chloramines-monster.html

 

[jshafer81]

Thanks for all the replies and info. Sorry I've been slow to respond. Busy week! I checked TDS on my RO only port. I assume that is the correct place to check for water past the membrane? Also rechecked my other numbers.

Water In- 65-75 (I think I misread last weekend since my unit's battery is dying...going to buy a backup and replace batteries, but assume it is reading correct if reading at all)
RO Out- 22
RODI Out- 6

That definitely looks like the membrane is shot and the DI has also turned brown, so needs replacing. With all that said, for my 5-stage unit with one DI chamber I'm still planning on the following from Spectrapure unless someone has advice otherwise...

• .5 micron Sediment
  
• .5 micron Carbon (two of these)
• Color-changing SuperDI
  
• 90gpd, 96%-98% rejection Membrane

"My city water runs chloramine" Check your free and total chlorine with test strips. My rural water supply is higher than my pool levels. I ran through 10" carbon filters like candy, and then goes the membrane. I ended up with the BRS monster 20" x 4". Other companies sell the same thing.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-reverse-osmosis-chloramines-monster.html

Alton, I know for sure my City runs chloramine..they make a big deal of notifying the public every year when they have to use chlorine for a week to clean the system, since the water smells different. Will the test strips still tell me something?

Check the gpd size of your membrane so your flow restrictor will match. Good idea to get a new flow restrictor, with integrated flush valve, as well as replace auto shut off valve whenever you change membrane, or every 4-5 years or so. If you change the size of your membrane you will need to change the size of your flow restrictor, and if you don’t have 50 psi would not go bigger than 75gpd

theMeat, I'm running a 75 gpd, but figure I'd rather replace all parts that may have issues after 10-12 years. I see flow restrictors and flush valves separate from BRS and only flow restrictors on Spectrapure. Can you point me to the best option with an integrated flush valve? I see auto shut offs on both sites and assume either is fine?

 

[JoshH]

theMeat, I'm running a 75 gpd, but figure I'd rather replace all parts that may have issues after 10-12 years. I see flow restrictors and flush valves separate from BRS and only flow restrictors on Spectrapure. Can you point me to the best option with an integrated flush valve? I see auto shut offs on both sites and assume either is fin

This would be Spectrapures flush valve, it does not come with a flow restrictor but has room for one, as long as you buy the appropriate flow restrictor for the 90 GPD you should be good. Now keep in mind once you get it you will have to trim the flow restrictor to a proper length to produce the correct rejection ratio, really easy to do, I'll dig up the video in a little bit

https://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/ADD-ONS/Flush-Valve-Kit-w-1-4in-fittings

And if you want the kit with everything, Auto shut off and all...

https://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/ADD...ne-Flush-Valve-Kit-For-90-GPD-RO-RODI-Systems

With those numbers, I think it's safe to say everything is toast in your system lol something to keep in mind is you need to change your carbon and sediement filters much more frequently than your membrane, especially the carbon blocks. Not doing so can let chlorine/chloramines through which will chew up your membrane in no time.

 

[Opus]

I would skip the membrane flush kit. They don't really work on our hobby grade systems. Also, you don't really need .5 micron carbon blocks, you could do 1 micron and be fine. The .5 sediment filter has already stopped the particles above .5.

Finally don't trust color changing DI, it just doesn't work really well. Mine will change colors but I still get 4 or 5 months of 0 tds water out of it even though the color says it is exhausted. If your city water is really under 100 tds then with the new membrane you should be looking at 1 or 2 tds before the DI filter, which should easily produce 2200+ gallons of 0 tds water.

 

[jshafer81]

I have all my replacements filters at the house and want to change them out this weekend. Is there a particular order of replacement (ie: do I need to run water through some filters before replacing others) or can I just take all old filters out then replace and start running like normal? I have a flush valve already on the unit, so I figure at least run that for a few minutes before making DI treated water, just in case it helps? Then run for 10-15 minutes through DI before making water for tank? Other steps?

I also did get a new Spectrapure flow restrictor. Seeing a variety of instructions online. Sounds like I need to install the new restrictor without cutting it, then run the unit for a few minutes and measure how much rido water is created. Cut the tube based off that number and the charts online?

Appreciate the help so far and any other assistance you can provide!

 

[theMeat]

Yes, that’s how you adjust the flow restrictor.
Good idea to rinse carbon block before install. Then install sediment and carbon, disconnect water line into membrane and let run for a few minutes to rinse. Then re-hook up water to membrane and run as usual.

 

[theMeat]

...

 

[jshafer81]

Yes, that’s how you adjust the flow restrictor.
Good idea to rinse carbon block before install. Then install sediment and carbon, disconnect water line into membrane and let run for a few minutes to rinse. Then re-hook up water to membrane and run as usual.

Thanks!