RODI fillter question

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I got my RODI system back in January and setting up my new tank Im sure I used alot of water so far. My TDS is starting to read .01 coming out of the DI filter so something needs changed. Do I need to replace all the filters in my system or just get more DI resin? This is my first one so Im learning still with it. Thanks

Here is the RODI I have

BRS 5 Stage PLUS RO/DI System - 75GPD - Bulk Reef Supply
 
Just the DI resin needs changing if your TDSs are starting to creep up. Depending on the carbon filter you have, it should be good for several thousand gallons (the ones I use are supposedly good for 20k). Membranes should be replaced every couple of years (depends on how much you produce and if you backflush it). The sediment filters are fairly cheap and should be changed when they get dirty.
 
That is the rodi that I have and I love it. I have had mine for a little while and produced alot of water so far. Still have not had to change any of the filters yet. I also flush mine before and after every use. What is the reading before the di? Sounds like you need new di resin.
 
Yeah I've used alot of water so far getting my system settled in. Going in the di it's around .04-.06. I flush my membrane before and after using my system. I think just di resin should do it I would think.


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A good rule ofthumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. Amore precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use apressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts todecline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning toclog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorinecapacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example willremove 99% of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm.Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both wastewater and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DIresin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, andtrack the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tapwater, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likelyrange from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. Thatmeans that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolvedsolids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere nearzero?

If you do some experimenting withyour TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectivelycalled “prefilters” because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane)do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm,you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see itis still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really theworkhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to agreater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have arejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feedwater). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purifiedwater (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%).The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run throughit, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, twoyears, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in tothe membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane.Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the samereading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly producepurified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water willflow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in theRO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complainthat their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is amalfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This willexhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimesthe problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not createdequal.

Additionally, don’t forget tosanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube yourhousing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
Russ is the man! He has been helpful on a few of our threads here in the MTRC forum.
 
Thanks Buckeye!!! Great advice here. My water in is typically very constant so I have a Dual meter to test on the RO output and then on the DI output. Typically where i live, the water is in the 80-100 TDS range. In Murfreesboro, it was like 350! (talk about rocks in the pipes). So on mine, I see usually 1 TDS on the Ro output and then the DI polishes it off to 0 TDS. I would advise replacing the RO membrane when you start to see its rejection rate diminish. On my system, Ill replace it when I see 5-10 TDS output. Otherwise you will really wear out some DI resin.


Edit: FWIW, the well water my neighbor has is is under 50 TDS. its some really good drinking water.
 
Last edited:
A good rule ofthumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. Amore precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use apressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts todecline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning toclog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorinecapacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example willremove 99% of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm.Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both wastewater and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DIresin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, andtrack the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tapwater, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likelyrange from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. Thatmeans that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolvedsolids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere nearzero?

If you do some experimenting withyour TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectivelycalled “prefilters†because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane)do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm,you can measure the water at the “in†port on your RO housing and you'll see itis still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really theworkhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to agreater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have arejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feedwater). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purifiedwater (a.k.a. “permeateâ€) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%).The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run throughit, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, twoyears, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in tothe membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane.Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the samereading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly producepurified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water willflow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in theRO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complainthat their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is amalfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty†water. This willexhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimesthe problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not createdequal.

Additionally, don’t forget tosanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube yourhousing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ

+1

Well said!

How do you recommend sterilizing?

-Matt


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I will say ive had my rodi for almost 2 years and the di is still only 3/4 color changed and still 0 tds. Brs 5 stage deluxe with pressure gauge and dual tds. I do need to change my sediment filters and probly carbon as well tho lol lazy :banghead:
 

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