RODI FILTER ISSUE

  • Thread starter Thread starter ggNoRe
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With your 14 TDS coming out of the membrane you are going to use up DI resin quicker. I would look at replacing your di with something like this.


With the dual DI the first one is a roughing stage and then the second one is a polish stage.

The lower you can get the TDS out of the membrane the longer your DI will last. If you could get your 14 down to 7 that would double the life of the DI resin.
 
Yes, I live in Sugar Land Tx. Water is 255 TDS coming from the tap. Any filters recommended if I just scrap this system all together? Thanks
 
Yes, I live in Sugar Land Tx. Water is 255 TDS coming from the tap. Any filters recommended if I just scrap this system all together? Thanks

I would recomend Buckeye Hydro or Spectrapure
 
I recommend BRS for the quality,price and availability of their filter system. I have 285tds coming in it goes to 290tds after carbon and sediment filters before the first r.o membrane.

Then 4tds befor my resin but thats after 20 min I bleed it of for 30min before I run it thru d.i and never put any water over 5tds thru d.i resin..

5 tds meters on my system and flush valve helps to save r.o membrane if you flush for 10 min and monitor the small r.o output during the flush the tds will fall slowly as the waste water flows stronger.
 

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If you have chloramine in your city water you will need a special carbon filter for that. Look up your city water they have a water report that tells you what you have chlorine or chloramine. Clloramine is hard on everything on a rodi system except the partical filter. Chlorine is not so bad .
 
It looks like some chloramine was detected in the main system a couple years ago but does not show in the report that goes to my neighborhood specifically.

Do you think this is an issue?
 

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It looks like some chloramine was detected in the main system a couple years ago but does not show in the report that goes to my neighborhood specifically.

Do you think this is an issue?
i think you can get a free water test at homedepot, ive only seen them by the exit ive never investigated any farther
 
yes pretty sure chloramines need a different type of carbon block. also did you replace all the filter pads with the same ones from the company or from like bulkreefsupply? that company could just use really trash filters compared to others, the rodi filter itself looks pretty standard and should function fine
 
I just used the filters from the same company which do seem to be trash indeed. So the system does actually have a carbon filter already. Am I looking for a specific type of carbon filter?

Honestly, even if parts of this system are just fine I will probably end up scraping ut all together and buying a spectra or BRS system. I'm just so tired of jacking with it. It's only been 6 months and I've had to change waaaay too many filters already and even worse forced to use less than proper water in my tank well trying to figure it all out.
 
idk which specific one you need but standard filters should work in the unit. BRS has rodi filter kits so i would just get the one with the brs universal carbon blocks and you should be fine. the filters do all the heavy lifting so as long as the unit has ok pressure and channels the water through the filters, the unit itself should be fine, prob just the awful included filters.
 
 
and also the dow filmtec 75gpd or 100gpd ro membrane, i would check which ro membrane they you too
 
14tds before your first di canister is on the high side and you will use up your resin quicker! do you flush the way i explained earlier and 14 is the lowest it will get after at least 20 min?

I wait until I get down to 5tds before I put it thru the d.i or around. When the r.o membrane is new its at 4-5tds for me and replaced at 6-8tds but for the first 15-30 minutes it will be very high dont put that thru your resin

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