RODI HELP/SUGGESTIONS

[KStatefan]

i have been adding on to it but feel like im just wasting money since i am not sure on what filters i need for the issues i have.
i have a flush valve installed on the waste line coming out of the membrane. assuming its in the right spot?

Thar is where the flush valve should be but that is not what you use to remove TDS creep. To remove TDS creep you either need a 3 way valve between the membrane and the first DI canister or you need to disconnect the line from the DI canister and run the first minute or two of water down the drain.

 

[Saltysav96]

normally i take the good water line out the bucket when i flush and let it run for 5-10minutes before putting the good water line back in.

 

[KStatefan]

normally i take the good water line out the bucket when i flush and let it run for 5-10minutes before putting the good water line back in.

That puts all the TDS creep into your DI resin

 

[Saltysav96]

That puts all the TDS creep into your DI resin

this is the flush valve i have and followed this BRS video when installed.

How To Install a RODI Flush Valve - BRStv How-To

Flush Valves are great for prolonging the life of your reverse osmosis membrane. They allow water to bypass the flow restrictor and flush your membrane of any possible built up minerals deposits that could lead to poor performance and possible failure. Installing a flush valve only takes a few...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

so i am taking this as in this isnt the 100% correct way to do this? and need to get something like this

Reverse Osmosis Membrane Flush Valve

The Membrane Flush/Flow restrictor valve is an all in one flow restrictor equipped with a flush valve for easy worry free use. Keeping the flush and flow restrictor in a single package keeps fitting count down which means less chance for possible leaks or failures down the line. 550 mL/min for...

www.marinedepot.com

again sorry for sounding dumb. i am trying to learn all this . im to the point of just sellng what i have and buying a new unit... but that still wont fix the filter issue i wouldnt think.

 

[KStatefan]

this is the flush valve i have and followed this BRS video when installed.

How To Install a RODI Flush Valve - BRStv How-To

Flush Valves are great for prolonging the life of your reverse osmosis membrane. They allow water to bypass the flow restrictor and flush your membrane of any possible built up minerals deposits that could lead to poor performance and possible failure. Installing a flush valve only takes a few...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

so i am taking this as in this isnt the 100% correct way to do this? and need to get something like this

Reverse Osmosis Membrane Flush Valve

The Membrane Flush/Flow restrictor valve is an all in one flow restrictor equipped with a flush valve for easy worry free use. Keeping the flush and flow restrictor in a single package keeps fitting count down which means less chance for possible leaks or failures down the line. 550 mL/min for...

www.marinedepot.com

again sorry for sounding dumb. i am trying to learn all this . im to the point of just sellng what i have and buying a new unit... but that still wont fix the filter issue i wouldnt think.

Why would you buy a different unit? The one you have is fine just need to run it as efficiently as possible.

That flushes the dirty side of the membrane that is not where the TDS creep is. You need a DI bypass to send the TDS creep down the drain. Two totally separate things.

This is the valve I am talking about. You can accomplish the same thing by removing the line going into your DI

Look at this thread by @Buckeye Hydro

Let's Talk RO & RODI

I wanted to introduce, or re-introduce some common jargon pertaining to RO and RODI systems that few people in the hobby commonly use. PERMEATE - the water that has made its way through the RO membrane. Often called "RO water." In most situations, the TDS of permeate should be 5% or less of...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Saltysav96]

Why would you buy a different unit? The one you have is fine just need to run it as efficiently as possible.

That flushes the dirty side of the membrane that is not where the TDS creep is. You need a DI bypass to send the TDS creep down the drain. Two totally separate things.

This is the valve I am talking about. You can accomplish the same thing by removing the line going into your DI

Look at this thread by @Buckeye Hydro

Let's Talk RO & RODI

I wanted to introduce, or re-introduce some common jargon pertaining to RO and RODI systems that few people in the hobby commonly use. PERMEATE - the water that has made its way through the RO membrane. Often called "RO water." In most situations, the TDS of permeate should be 5% or less of...

www.reef2reef.com

oh ok. thats what i started to ask you. makes since now. wish i would have known that when i first installed a flush valve. i will pick up one of these, along with a 2nd inline tds and a 2nd pressure gage.

so back to the filters...

so uh, running 2 carbon filters wouldnt do any good as far as removing sand correct?

 

[Biglew11]

carbon blocks will remove anything that's lager than there pore structure, they will just clog much faster.

 

[Saltysav96]

To help determine what filters would be best for me .
Here are the ICP test of my RODI water from 2018 and 2019
Nothing shows except silicon

oct 2018

Sept 2019

 

[Opus]

Ok, I will start out with a little RODI 101. Your RODI system is made up of 3 basic groups. The prefilters (sediment and carbon), RO filter (ro membrane(s), and finally the DI (cation & anion). The sole purpose of the prefilters is to protect the RO membrane. The sediment filter removes the larger particles down to what ever size filter you buy. I have a .2 micron prefilter but the norm is 5 or 1 micron. You then have the carbon filter. It absorbs any chemicals that might hurt the ro membrane, mainly chlorine. If chlorine makes it to the membrane it can eat holes in it. That is different from chloramines, which will not hurt the ro membrane but will chew thru your DI. The prefilters have no affect on the tds. You then have the ro membrane which is the main workhorse of the system and pulls out most of the bad stuff. How much depends on its efficiency rating. Most say 95% but the name brands usually are around 98%. I paid a little extra and got a 99% one. If you keep up with your prefilter changes your ro membrane should last 5+ years. Quick hit - the ro membrane is .0001 microns. So now you have your DI filter(s) which they are there for clean-up.

Honestly it is hard to diagnose anything without tap tds numbers. We need the tds going into the sediment filter and after the ro membrane. This will tell us if the membrane is ok or not. Also, it might be a good idea for you to invest in a pressure gauge and install it after the sediment filter. Write down what your pressure is with a new sediment filter and when you see a big drop off in pressure you know it is clogged up and time to get a new one.

If you are worried about the silicon then maybe look at this special di cartridge.

SpectraPure - Innovators in Water Technology

SpectraPure, Inc. is an Industry Standard in the Water Purification world. From Drinking Water to Aquarium Systems, you don't just want pure water, you want the PUREST Water! Get it with SpectraPure!

spectrapure.com

 

[Saltysav96]

Ok, I will start out with a little RODI 101. Your RODI system is made up of 3 basic groups. The prefilters (sediment and carbon), RO filter (ro membrane(s), and finally the DI (cation & anion). The sole purpose of the prefilters is to protect the RO membrane. The sediment filter removes the larger particles down to what ever size filter you buy. I have a .2 micron prefilter but the norm is 5 or 1 micron. You then have the carbon filter. It absorbs any chemicals that might hurt the ro membrane, mainly chlorine. If chlorine makes it to the membrane it can eat holes in it. That is different from chloramines, which will not hurt the ro membrane but will chew thru your DI. The prefilters have no affect on the tds. You then have the ro membrane which is the main workhorse of the system and pulls out most of the bad stuff. How much depends on its efficiency rating. Most say 95% but the name brands usually are around 98%. I paid a little extra and got a 99% one. If you keep up with your prefilter changes your ro membrane should last 5+ years. Quick hit - the ro membrane is .0001 microns. So now you have your DI filter(s) which they are there for clean-up.

Honestly it is hard to diagnose anything without tap tds numbers. We need the tds going into the sediment filter and after the ro membrane. This will tell us if the membrane is ok or not. Also, it might be a good idea for you to invest in a pressure gauge and install it after the sediment filter. Write down what your pressure is with a new sediment filter and when you see a big drop off in pressure you know it is clogged up and time to get a new one.

If you are worried about the silicon then maybe look at this special di cartridge.

SpectraPure - Innovators in Water Technology

SpectraPure, Inc. is an Industry Standard in the Water Purification world. From Drinking Water to Aquarium Systems, you don't just want pure water, you want the PUREST Water! Get it with SpectraPure!

spectrapure.com

i got that much when it comes to RODI 101...

i think people are misunderstanding me on some things,

now that i realize i need to add another tds meter, another pressure gage, and fix my flush valve.
i need help understanding what filters are best for my source water and what arrangement to have them. seems all i find on the internet about filters is geared toward city water.
i do not have chlorine, or chloramines in my water. our well is deep and pulls straight from the ground.

i am tired of only being able to make 200 or so gallons before i start reading high tds.
it is a very good possibility that the silicon is blowing the DI resin and i would probably be okay by just changing them out more regularly but that can still get costly. esp when i could be using that money on coral..

i can get a TDS reading of the source water this weekend.

 

[Biglew11]

The pre filters will do nothing to limit the consumption of di resin. If you have fairly low tds (under 15) after the ro membrane It sounds more like you have co2 in your well water.
I'm not sure how people out gas it, but I do know they take the product water from the ro and store it before pumping it through the di resin.

 

[Biglew11]

Just reread some of the post. You already know you have high silicates. These are only removed by the anion di resin. You're using 2 stages of mixed di resin. The first stage is depleting rapidly, probably only the anion portion.
I would add a third stage of di and use separate resins in each. First stage cation, second stage anion, third stage mixed. You may also consider making the second stage larger like a 20" https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reverse-osmosis-canisters.html

1st stage https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cation-single-bed-color-changing-bulk-deionization-resin-brs.html
2nd stage
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/anion-single-bed-color-changing-bulk-deionization-resin-brs.html
3rd stage
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cation-mixed-bed-color-changing-bulk-deionization-resin-brs.html

 

[Saltysav96]

Why would you buy a different unit? The one you have is fine just need to run it as efficiently as possible.

That flushes the dirty side of the membrane that is not where the TDS creep is. You need a DI bypass to send the TDS creep down the drain. Two totally separate things.

This is the valve I am talking about. You can accomplish the same thing by removing the line going into your DI

Look at this thread by @Buckeye Hydro

Let's Talk RO & RODI

I wanted to introduce, or re-introduce some common jargon pertaining to RO and RODI systems that few people in the hobby commonly use. PERMEATE - the water that has made its way through the RO membrane. Often called "RO water." In most situations, the TDS of permeate should be 5% or less of...

www.reef2reef.com

So i just got around to ordering the parts i needed....
2nd tds meter
2nd pressure gage
3 stage di
3 way valve

Dumb question would be. I would put the 3 way valve exactly where? On the good water line going into the di ?

 

[DSEKULA]

The way you listed it sounds like your sediment filters are backwards you should go from the largest number to the smallest. Sorry if I'm reading wrong. That's not necessarily your problem but probably isn't helping.

I also run on well water and design water treatment systems for a living, here is my rodi set up. Without knowing the specifics of your incoming water it's hard to make suggestions specific to your situation. In general with well water you do want more stages of sediment filtration mine go 30, 20, 5carbon, 5, 1, 0.02. you may benefit from separating out your di resin to a cation bed in one and anion bed in the other so you could only replace specificly what is getting used up instead of blowing through a mixed bed. Alternativly, if you can find out specificly what is high in the incoming water you can always use the first di to treat that specific with a positive or negative charged bed and then run through a mixed bed to polish. If it is silicate (silicon) you would want an anion bed and then a mixed bed. Assuming this is the main or only problem.

 

[Biglew11]

Dumb question would be. I would put the 3 way valve exactly where? On the good water line going into the di ?

Yes that's the right spot.

 

[Saltysav96]

Yall this is getting ridiculous
Dont judge my ****** looking setup lol

 

[KStatefan]

Looks good.
You can always make it look better in the future if you want to. I am working on cleaning mine up now.

Not sure your 3-way valve is hooked up correctly or it is configured different from mine.

 

[Saltysav96]

Looks good.
You can always make it look better in the future if you want to. I am working on cleaning mine up now.

Not sure your 3-way valve is hooked up correctly or it is configured different from mine.

I had it hooked up wrong. Lol took me a min to figure it out but got it fixed.

Just as soon as i start making water,i realize the membrane is bad and Just my luck,
The fitting coming out the left side of the RO membrane housing blew out and screwed the threads up. now i gotta order a new housing and a membrane