Rodi question

[Artillerydrill]

I feel like this question has been asked 1000x but can't find an answer specific. We just moved to Louisiana, I have a BRS 150gpd 5 stage unit. Brand new RO membranes, pre filter, carbon block, and 2 DI canisters. I use a pump so I get about 90 psi. Basically both DI canisters were exhausted after filling my aquarium for the 1st time (170 gallons). TDS going in:115....TDS after RO:4....and zero after DI for about the first 150 gallons. Then it read 1-3. The di is exhausted and the carbon block is looking rough(little brown spots on outside of filter). My question is could this be chlorine ripping through the filters? If so should I run 1 pre filter, 2 carbon blocks and one DI? I really appreciate it.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Are you on well water?

 

[Idoc]

Maybe get some test strips that test for free chlorine and total chlorine to see if your water system is using chloramines vs chlorine. You can also call your water department as well.

Are you flushing your filters a few minutes before and after making a batch of water? Not doing this will reduce the life of your DI resin.

 

[GBRsouth]

Is your local water treated with chlorine or chloramines? If you don't know you should find out and then get advice from bulk reef supply for the best set-up for your local water. But without knowing for sure what you are dealing with, I would add an extra canister before your unit for your prefilter. That way you can get the extra carbon block in and still have two di canisters. Reducing the di to one canister would heavily affect the quality of your product water.

 

[Artillerydrill]

Not sure about the chlorine I'm on an army base in a small town. I will try to find out about if it's treated. It's not well water, I always flush the filters before and after. I might just buy another canister for an additional carbon block. The wife said she could smell chlorine in the water....I can't......who knows.

 

[GBRsouth]

The main point to determine is if it is chlorine or chloramine as that alters the type of prefilter and carbon blocks to run to be effective. Will reduce di consumption.

 

[Artillerydrill]

Another option would be to take one of the membranes off and put it back down to 75gpd

 

[Artillerydrill]

GBRsouth I understand I will try to figure it out

 

[GBRsouth]

That would have a small effect in reducing tds. But it would cut in half how much product water you can produce and would double your waste water. Test both ways with a tds meter and then you can decide if that works for you.

 

[Artillerydrill]

That would have a small effect in reducing tds. But it would cut in half how much product water you can produce and would double your waste water. Test both ways with a tds meter and then you can decide if that works for you.

I guess I would rather waste less water then worry about the filters, I don't pay for water but I still hate being wasteful. I went ahead and ordered an additional cartridge to run one pre filter, two chlorine/chloramine removing carbon blocks and two DI. I'll report back to see if that makes any sort of difference. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

[ZJedi945]

Are you on well water?

Just stumbled on this thread and sorry to steal it a bit but what does well water change?

 

[GBRsouth]

Well water is not treated with chlorine or chloramine.

 

[GBRsouth]

Artillerydrill, also taking off one membrane doubles the amount of tap water going through the prefilters and carbon blocks compared to product water produced. And I forgot to ask you if each time you turn on your rodi filter do you allow the first water through the membranes to go straight to your di resin? If so, you should not, as at first, the membranes allow higher tds through after sitting for a while. this would be one way you could have higher di consumption.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Well water is not treated with chlorine or chloramine.

It's

Just stumbled on this thread and sorry to steal it a bit but what does well water change?

High co2. It'll burn out the di fast.

I believe the cloramines are removed by the ro filter. The first filter. On his he should have too I believe. Usually referred to as the claramine buster.

Agreed. A sediment filter first would be a good idea. And actually, putting one on the house too would not be a bad idea , all things considered.

 

[Big G]

The wife said she could smell chlorine in the water....I can't......who knows.

Trust the boss And the ladies are pretty good at looking at test strip colors while we just stand there looking, and looking and can't decide what shade of blue the sample is. LOL

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Trust the boss And the ladies are pretty good at looking at test strip colors while we just stand there looking, and looking and can't decide what shade of blue the sample is. LOL

+10000000000000000000000000

 

[GBRsouth]

ZJedi945 the other issue with well water is it generally has a higher tds than normal tap water.

 

[Big G]

ZJedi945 the other issue with well water is it generally has a higher tds than normal tap water.

Depends of the well water. Here in the woods of Oregon, my well has TDS of 85-90. Way back when I lived south of here, in the big city is was chlorinated and then later Chloramined with a TDS of over 300. Bad water-yuck. It was orange.

 

[GBRsouth]

Yep, that's why I said generally. All depends on local conditions.

 

[Artillerydrill]

Artillerydrill, also taking off one membrane doubles the amount of tap water going through the prefilters and carbon blocks compared to product water produced. And I forgot to ask you if each time you turn on your rodi filter do you allow the first water through the membranes to go straight to your di resin? If so, you should not, as at first, the membranes allow higher tds through after sitting for a while. this would be one way you could have higher di consumption.

No I have a john guest valve running TDS creep into the drain initially until my TDS gets to 4-5