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Thanks for the input, the old system is also a seven stage with two ro membranes and two pre filters/ two carbon blocks... just not sure if I can integrate the two for longer filter/membrane life..?It seems your new RO is a 7 stage system, including 3 DI modules. I am not sure what else can adding the 2 additional modules do for you.
The new system looks good!
2 things that kills the RO membrane are Warm water from the source (usually not an issue) and chlorine in the water source. just use good quality carbon block cartridges or ones that are rated to remove chloramine. They are considered to last longer and have a higher capacity to remove the chlorine from the tap water. 2 Modules for carbon are generally more than sufficient.Thanks for the input, the old system is also a seven stage with two ro membranes and two pre filters/ two carbon blocks... just not sure if I can integrate the two for longer filter/membrane life..?
Is a back flush the same a a ro membrane flush valve? If so both units have them. Can’t say I’ve ever used it.. maybe you can enlighten me on when it would be appropriate to do so.. and how?2 things that kills the RO membrane are Warm water from the source (usually not an issue) and chlorine in the water source. just use good quality carbon block cartridges or ones that are rated to remove chloramine. They are considered to last longer and have a higher capacity to remove the chlorine from the tap water. 2 Modules for carbon are generally more than sufficient.
Having more that one sediment cartridge does not add additional level of protection unless you have major issues with sediments from the water source. In that case you can have 2 sediment modules, one with 5 micron and one with 1 micron cartridge.
You also have 3 DI modules, you can have several combination of DI cartridges to polish the product water that covers everything for you.
I am not sure if your new system has a back flush. If not, I would strongly suggest getting one as it will increase the efficiency and life of the membrane. You should be all good IMO.
I am sorry it is called a flush valve. It bypasses the flow restrictor and lets full pressure and flow of prefiltered water after the last carbon module to rinse off the surface of membrane from any residue/built up. It should be used every time you replace the sediment and carbon block cartridges to prevent the carbon dust to settle on the membrane as well as letting the trapped air to scape the system faster. Ideally it also should be used prior to every water making but I personally open the flush valve for a minutes and couple of times a months.Is a back flush the same a a ro membrane flush valve? If so both units have them. Can’t say I’ve ever used it.. maybe you can enlighten me on when it would be appropriate to do so.. and how?
Since I base how long the membrane will last on its efficiency, it would effect how long it lasts and in my case I don't believe it does. I want mine to be running at 98%+ efficiency or it will be replaced. I get 5 to 7 years out of mine without flushing. So all that time and water i waste flushing over those 7 years, will that get an extra month, 3 months, 6 months, no month?Flush valve is a standard practice in RO technology and not a theory. Over time very small particles (below 0.5 micron) will settle on the membrane film which over a course of a time reduces the rejection rate. Without flushing the membrane the quality of membrane will be diminished over time. This is not about how long the membrane could last and more about how well the membrane will work for you over its life.
All professional RO units are equipped with electronic flush switch prior to each use and at regular intervals for this reason. We are not making water for our fish tanks at industrial levels but the science and technology is relative and applies.

