RODI storage and algae... can water be stored too long?

reefshawn

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I have a reef RODI unit that feeds water into a large white Brute human grade food storage trash bin. This is the first one I’ve had that is the color white. I changed my RODI media a couple of months ago. Water output is reading 000. So a few weeks ago I made new water and mixed in a high grade reef salt as I normally do. I have a power head and a heater in the bin; the bin is covered. Long story but I ended up getting busy The next day and not being able to perform the water change... I go back today, which is a few weeks later, and inside the bin right at the water line I’m seeing a dark greenish gray film on the inside of the white bin. I’m assuming it’s algae. Is it possible to wait too long on using source water... should I throw this out and make new salt water? I’m tempted to empty the bin, clean it and start over, but if that’s overkill I would rather not waste the water.
 
I get a very fine film on the inside of my Brute everywhere there is water if I leave it in there for more than 5 to 7 days. The water tests fine and is still crystal clear and the film wipes out of the Brute quite easily. It could be some kind of residue from the brand of salt?
 
I get a very fine film on the inside of my Brute everywhere there is water if I leave it in there for more than 5 to 7 days. The water tests fine and is still crystal clear and the film wipes out of the Brute quite easily. It could be some kind of residue from the brand of salt?

Maybe it’s something like that. The more I look at it, and considering it’s above the water not down in it, I think it must be some kind of mold or mildew. It is pretty warm in there. I’m thinking the water is probably fine. I’ll test it for phosphates in a bit.
 
Algae growing in new water wouldn’t be a concern for any reason I can think of and ro/di water can be stored for as long as you want, assuming it is in an appropriate container.
 
What salt brand?

Many of the salts we use have anti caking agents in them and when the water is stored, it shows on the insides of your containers. Nothing new and the water is absolutely fine to use. Those of us that store salt water have known this for a very long time, and it doesn't effect anything.
 
What salt brand?

Many of the salts we use have anti caking agents in them and when the water is stored, it shows on the insides of your containers. Nothing new and the water is absolutely fine to use. Those of us that store salt water have known this for a very long time, and it doesn't effect anything.

Excellent info, I didn't know that!
 
Since his containers are white, it probably shows more then any other color. Could also explain why you don't see more posts like this.

FWIW,
Some salt brands are worse(IORC) of this residue then others, but they all have it.
 
Excellent info, I didn't know that!

I’m not convinced that modern salts use anti caking agents. Precipitates of various types, however, are very common, especially calcium carbonate.
 
I’m not convinced that modern salts use anti caking agents. Precipitates of various types, however, are very common, especially calcium carbonate.
That info was posted by you(albeit many years ago) back on RC. I assumed it still applied(IE the brown crud typically found in IORC)?
 
That info was posted by you(albeit many years ago) back on RC. I assumed it still applied(IE the brown crud typically found in IORC)?

I don’t recall saying I knew anticaking agents to be used, but I might have. I know others make the claim and at least some manufacturers deny it. At least in 2009, I said at RC that I didn't know:

"I'm not sure if it is in any mixes, "

That said, here's a section from one of my articles. I colored the section on anti-caking:

What is that Precipitate in My Reef Aquarium?
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-07/rhf/index.htm

from it:


Solid Residues Remaining After Preparing Artificial Seawater



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Most salt mixes leave behind a solid residue when dissolved, although the extent to which this occurs varies from brand to brand. I use Instant Ocean and rarely clean out the 44-gallon trashcan that I mix it in, so a significant residue builds up over time (Figure 1). In preparation for this article I removed some of this solid material, and found that it could be almost completely dissolved in hydrochloric acid with lots of bubbling. This demonstrates that these solids were probably calcium carbonate (CaCO3), perhaps also containing magnesium. Pure magnesium carbonate is undersaturated in seawater (which is detailed in later sections of this article) 1 and should dissolve in marine systems, so it isn't likely to be the precipitated material, although there may be significant magnesium in the calcium carbonate.

Based on the fact that the material exists as sheets that clearly did not arrive in the mix (as opposed to a fine powder which might have), I conclude that at least a significant fraction of this residue formed in the barrel. I cannot, however, rule out the possibility that some solid calcium or magnesium carbonate may have existed in the salt mix and was cemented together by additional precipitation of calcium carbonate during dissolution or storage.

When salt mixes are dissolved, there exist local regions where the salt concentration is very high. In those local regions, the calcium and alkalinity must also be very high. In fact, as seawater is concentrated by evaporation, there is a well-established series of minerals that precipitate as the salinity increases. In this series, calcium and magnesium carbonate are the first to precipitate, appearing at a specific gravity of about 1.140, which is about a 50% solution of salt in water.1 Such conditions may well exist on the bottom of a saltwater reservoir as the salt is dissolving.

With some mixes (but not the Instant Ocean that I use), the initial pH on dissolution may be very high (pH 8.5-9 +). As shown in detail later in this article, pH can play a dominant role in determining the rate of calcium carbonate precipitation, and such a high pH would make it more likely to precipitate.

It has been suggested by some aquarists that some salt mixes may contain anti-caking agents, such as clays. I do not know if this is true, but if it is, they may form part of the residue that is left behind after dissolution.

In order to minimize the formation of insoluble carbonate salts when mixing, the following suggestions may be helpful:

1. Add the salt to a full batch of water, rather than adding water slowly to a large batch of salt. The latter allows a greater time at much higher than natural seawater salinity, which may tend to precipitate calcium and magnesium salts.

2. Stir the mixture vigorously as it is being dissolved.

3. If using a mix with a high initial pH, aerate the mixture as well as stirring it. The aeration will reduce the pH.
 
What salt brand?

Many of the salts we use have anti caking agents in them and when the water is stored, it shows on the insides of your containers. Nothing new and the water is absolutely fine to use. Those of us that store salt water have known this for a very long time, and it doesn't effect anything.

Right now I'm using Tropic Marin Pro-Reef. My LFS recommended it. It's OK. I don't know that I am a die-hard for any specific brand.
 
Do you keep the tank heated and the pump running all the time?

I do. Normally I generate the water on Saturday during the day, turn the pump and heater on once the level is high enough, and add salt and mix it up pretty good Saturday night, and then perform the water change sometime on Sunday. This time I let it set running like that for a couple weeks.
 
I do. Normally I generate the water on Saturday during the day, turn the pump and heater on once the level is high enough, and add salt and mix it up pretty good Saturday night, and then perform the water change sometime on Sunday. This time I let it set running like that for a couple weeks.
Do you monitor temperature while it is stored? Presumable the heater will turn off at setpoint, but the pump will keep adding heat to the water, especially if it is a submersible pump. Not sure what the affect on the water is. I usually don’t store water more than a couple of days, and if do, I leave the lid off the container to limit heat up. I’m curious what people that store water for weeks do?
 
I don't use a heater and only use the circulation pump to mix the salt in then I shut it off. When I'm ready to use the SW, I run the pump for an hour or so beforehand.

I THINK I've read that the salt dissolves better in colder water.
 
BRS has a great video where they tested many brands of salt with how they reacted in differing storage situations, plus mix times etc.
15 or so minutes is worth the watch

 
I use Tropic Marin Pro, and made the choice based off my own research and was backed up by the BRS video series.

That said I have a saltwater mixing station and have 160G of RO/DI and 160G of salwtater most of the time. I use the RO/DI tank as the top off for my aquariums as well

In my saltwater tank I have a heator to bring the water up to temperature for mixing purposes. This way I get accurate salinity levels. Then the heater gets turned off.
I keep the mixing pump and heator on for 48 hours or more when I make my saltwater.

From that point I have my mixing pump turn on twice a day for 15 minutes per interval.

In the 8 months I have had this system in place I have no build up of anything in either tank. I have had both tanks full for many weeks before I
had need with no ill efects. YMMV.
 
Do you monitor temperature while it is stored? Presumable the heater will turn off at setpoint, but the pump will keep adding heat to the water, especially if it is a submersible pump. Not sure what the affect on the water is. I usually don’t store water more than a couple of days, and if do, I leave the lid off the container to limit heat up. I’m curious what people that store water for weeks do?

unstirred and unheated is fine, unless there is organic matter like vitamins in it
 

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