Rodi system Help!!!

[SneakyTortuga]

Simply put... I have metals in my rodi reservoir. I received my icp test and these were the results.... it’s causing an issue and my tank and for the first time in a year I had to lug buckets to the store.

A break down of my rodi entire system...
I have a 4 stage rodi system putting out 0 tds in a closet located outside. The system is in a closet connected with a brass T sharing a water source with my washer machine. My reservoir is a 40 gallon brute trash can with a lid (obviously not a air tight seal). I float switch that automatically fills the tank when I use water. I use a quiteone pump to take water out but I only put it in when I need water.

When I took the sample for the icp it was taken directly from the reservoir.

If I can’t figure out the source I’m considering doing an entirely new water system. A 30-40 glass gallon cube tank with some sort of lid in a cabinet next to my tank. I would run the source water from the kitchen sink with a new rodi unit from bulk reef supply

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I would check the floats and pump in the brute.

I assume the water going into the brute is zero tds.
Is the water coming out of the brute 0 tds?

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

I'd look at your DI resin first. Copper is handled almost entirely by DI resin. If you're not packing your DI resin tightly or your resin is nearing depletion, this could be why the copper is showing up. Additionally, any metal after the DI stage could be contributing to the readings. The pin in your float valve might be corroding or rusting.

Cuprisorb will likely take care of the copper (although Randy mentions in this post that he had levels three times as high as yours with no issues). A polyfilter might help with the zinc.

 

[SneakyTortuga]

I would check the floats and pump in the brute.

I assume the water going into the brute is zero tds.
Is the water coming out of the brute 0 tds?

I need to check the tds in the bruteBut the water coming out of the rodi into the brute is 0.

About 4 months ago i changed the float because it had some signs of corrosion. As for the pump I only put it into the tank as needed. It doesn’t stay in the tank full time

 

[LMDAVE]

Is that Aluminum screwed onto brass? I believe those are dissimilar metals that shouldn't be connected to each other.

 

[jrlg]

I know it is before the TDS meter but the y splitter you have, might be outdoor use only and not intended for indoor plumbing, I bought one as well at first then, replaced with a pure brass, no valves
this was mine, don't know if the out door was for the fact it might leak or the pieces they use for the ball valves will leech

 

[SneakyTortuga]

I'd look at your DI resin first. Copper is handled almost entirely by DI resin. If you're not packing your DI resin tightly or your resin is nearing depletion, this could be why the copper is showing up. Additionally, any metal after the DI stage could be contributing to the readings. The pin in your float valve might be corroding or rusting.

Cuprisorb will likely take care of the copper (although Randy mentions in this post that he had levels three times as high as yours with no issues). A polyfilter might help with the zinc.

The pin had corrosion in my previous float switch so I replaced it. This float is practically new. I just changed all my filters before I sent the icp test

 

[SneakyTortuga]

I know it is before the TDS meter but the y splitter you have, might be outdoor use only and not intended for indoor plumbing, I bought one as well at first then, replaced with a pure brass, no valves
this was mine, don't know if the out door was for the fact it might leak or the pieces they use for the ball valves will leech

It does have valves and I did get in the outdoor section! I just didn’t know if this would pass through all the filters. I had a feeling this may have been the cause

Is that Aluminum screwed onto brass? I believe those are dissimilar metals that shouldn't be connected to each other.

It may very well be. I didn’t think of this. I’ll check when I get home