RODI system?

Wilkerson.reed

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I didn't know about RODI until recently... I've been using prime in tap water... This explains why I have algae problems... I know you aren't supposed to buy cheap stuff in this hobby but I am 14 and don't have much money right now so where would be a good place to get a good RODI system for a good price?
 
Well I know that Rodi systems don't run cheap but I did find this one on eBay you can read on.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/RO-DI-REVERSE...-FLUSH-VALVE-100-GPD-/131246792572?nav=SEARCH

Also do you have a shop near you that can sell you rodi water it should be around $2 per 5 gallon. I heard also people using distilled water from the store . I have used it for a 2 day emergency when the shops were closed and had no I'll affect . Used distilled a lot of times before.
 
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Nothing compares to Spectrapure when it comes to reefkeeping. Ask any of the thousands who own one.
http://spectrapure.com/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System
or the same system with your first set of replacement filters, DI cartridge, a low range chlorine test kit to monitor your carbon blocks condition anda handheld TDS meter for only $35 more
http://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/RODI-SYSTEMS/Aquarium-RO-DI-Starter Kit-Includes-RODI-System-Replacement-Filter Kit-TDS Meters-Chlorine-Test-Kit

Don't shop ebay for RO/DI, you get what you pay for and cheap is not where you want to be with water quality. It will cost you more to upgrade an ebay system to what it should be than buying a quality system the first time.
 
@AZDesertRat

there was another thread about where to place the In and Out line testers for a RO/DI unit. I followed what you said and made the corrections as (of course) i had them placed incorrectly

the question is, when do i know, when to change out the cartridges? The DI is color changing so i am sure i can figure that one out.

right now my in line meter is telling me that the "in" water (before the RO & DI) is teetering between 1-2ppm but the "out" line (after the DI) is reading zero...i just want to make sure i know what i should be looking for
 
The IN probe goes between the RO membrane and DI so it is reading your RO only TDS. The OUT probe is after the DI so tells you when to replace resin whenever it is anything other than 0 after a minute or so of running. Never rely on color changing resins as most can be unreliable.
You change your sediment and carbon block filter every 6 months like clockwork or if you have an inline pressure gauge you can change the sediment filter when you notice pressure drop due to plugging or fouling. If you are using a higher micron sediment filter than 1 microns this applies to the carbon block too. If your carbon block is protected by a 1 micron or smaller sediment filter then you might be able to stretch its life by monitoring for chlorine breakthru with an inexpensive low range chlorine test kit. If you don't line messing with things the 6 month rule is easy to remember and don't forget to disinfect the system at filter changes per your vendors recommendation's.
 
gotcha....

when i received the product.....it was fully assembled and had some sketchy instructions (as a matter of fact i do not remember seeing anything on sanitizing but i could be wrong and as i mentioned before the CS dept was pretty useless) but in your opinion, what would would be the best way to sanitize/disinfect the system? i have only had this unit for going on about 6-months (give or take) so now would be a good time for me to do so
 
Search my user name and disinfection and it will bring up a slew of threads on the subject, it has been posted hundreds of times over the last 14-15 years.
 

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