I’m looking to take advantage of the BRS RODI sale, but I’m having trouble knowing which one would work best. Tank is a 150 gallon, so I was thinking of the 150 gallon RODI plus, but don’t know if I should do the 4, 5, or 6 stage. I have a report of my local water if someone could guide me on this. Thank you!
RODI unit help
- Thread starter Cesar Romero
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The plus will get you more rodi with less waste water and help save your di resin.
If have in the budget.
I would chose either the 5 or 6 as in the long run will save you money on di resin refills.
I use the 4 on a water supply that uses only chlorine, with no issue and 0 tds output.
If have in the budget.
I would chose either the 5 or 6 as in the long run will save you money on di resin refills.
I use the 4 on a water supply that uses only chlorine, with no issue and 0 tds output.
fishnchip
Well-Known Member
I actually was going through the same thing. Turns out most states are converting to chloramine in order to treat their water so it's best to get a RODI system that removes it. Stage 5 removes some of it and stage 6 removes absolutely everything you don't wasn't in your RODI water (from my understanding). I just placed my order for the 6 stage unit with BRS because it seemed to be the safer route in the long run
DesertReefT4r
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Its not the number of stages that remove chloramine its the type of carbon filter. BRS sells a carbon block that removes chloramine. The advantage to having more stages is it extends the life of the filters. Having 2 carbon filters and 2 DI filters is best in all cases imo. That said I run a 4 stage with a BRS Universal carbon filter.
Dr.Xipoles
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Its a good idea to check with local reefers to see what they use and see what kind of water they are getting out of the tap and from the rodi because most likely you will have the same water as them. Its a good baseline to build your rodi kit from.
Im running brs 6 stage 150gpd at its working well with 60psi out the tap, 1:1 ratio.
Im running brs 6 stage 150gpd at its working well with 60psi out the tap, 1:1 ratio.
How many stages are needed depends on wether or not you use well water. You on well water?
Do you know the water pressure (psi) in the house?
BRS 150 gpd unit uses 2 membranes. Which can produce more product water with less water waste. But before membrane stages/cartridges get used faster, and it makes maintenance more tricky and finicky.
If your house water pressure is 50 or less go with 75 gpd or less. Or get a booster pump
Oh. I see you have posted your water.
5 or 6 stage. Chlorides and flourides need a carbon block stage or two to protect the membrane. I have swimming pool amounts in my local water and use two carbon blocks. Most of my particulates are of the same size, so one sediment filter before the carbon block is enough for me.
Getting a 6 stage is probably a safer bet. You could always run one stage empty if you don’t need it
Do you know the water pressure (psi) in the house?
BRS 150 gpd unit uses 2 membranes. Which can produce more product water with less water waste. But before membrane stages/cartridges get used faster, and it makes maintenance more tricky and finicky.
If your house water pressure is 50 or less go with 75 gpd or less. Or get a booster pump
Oh. I see you have posted your water.
5 or 6 stage. Chlorides and flourides need a carbon block stage or two to protect the membrane. I have swimming pool amounts in my local water and use two carbon blocks. Most of my particulates are of the same size, so one sediment filter before the carbon block is enough for me.
Getting a 6 stage is probably a safer bet. You could always run one stage empty if you don’t need it
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skim
Well-Known Member
I would go with the Plus as stated so all water sources will be treated with Chloramine as it is financially a better choice and most treatment plants will not state or make it public when they do switch, you have to call and ask. Just note also that Chloramine is not removed by the Carbon Blocks, as water passes through the Blocks the bond between the Chlorine and Ammonia is broken and most if not all Chlorine is adsorbed by the Carbon and the Ammonia moves on and is removed by the DI resin. So you chose to go with just RO and no DI you will have to treat any processed water with something like SeaChem Prime to bind the Ammonia.
Don Lidtke
Some Old Guy
I am running the 150 gallon, 6 stage system from BRS.
Even with better than 60 psi here I went with a booster pump because of the dual membrane and to try to limit the amount of water that’s being rejected.
Even with better than 60 psi here I went with a booster pump because of the dual membrane and to try to limit the amount of water that’s being rejected.
