RODI unit output slowed

The FR-90 is the one you want. It is the same as a 75 GPD. Once you install it, you measure your flows then trim it to length with a razor blade according to the included instructions for an exact 4:1. Its very easy and takes no time at all. You don't want a pretrimmed or one size fits all since it will only be ballpark close.
 
Its similar to the people why try to chill water with a dorm refrigerator, the power costs far outweigh the benefit.

You are right there is a question of "is it worth it?", but this is not to say it won't work. :smile: Those dorm fridge chillers do work, at least in the elemental sense...as do the "bucket heaters" for RO.

If you're on city water where your waste line just gets recycled back into the municipal water treatment system, then aside from initial cost of the water (which is usually insignificantly cheap) there isn't really any "waste". To me it would be a little hard to justify running "bucket heater", but that does depend on how often/for how long the heater cycles on.

However, your feelings may vary if you're on well water (or other source where there are higher "acquisition costs") and there's not a good recycle option for all that waste water. A rain barrel - or a few - outside coupled with a soaker hose would make great use out of a lot of it. In this kind of scenario a "bucket heater" may actually be worth it, but it's also possible a zero waste system or at least a booster pump may be variously better and more economical in the long run.

Just to throw it out there, I've thought about scavenging waste heat from my ridiculously inefficient MaxiJet saltwater mixing pumps by coiling the RO tubing in the salt mixing vat. Never measured it, but my mix water is always warm. :-) I don't suppose there's any reason this idea couldn't extend to be a "coil chiller" when you wind the RO tubing around inside your sump? :xd:

Of course, if your system doesn't need a chiller already, you're just going to be running a "rectangular bucket heater". LOL

Good luck!

-Matt
 
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There is no such thing as a zero waste RO/DI system. The RO system Watts Premier sells takes the concentrated waste and recycles it back to your hot water heater which is not a good idea since hot water heaters collect enough crap as it is.

Again plastic tubing is a horrible heat exchanger so you are throwing money away.
 
AZ:

Of course a properly installed, well designed filter is the place to start - good tips and link.

One is also throwing money away by paying to pump water out of the ground, filtering it, and then throwing 3/4 or more on the ground outside.

Nobody said RO tubing was a great conductor - just that the issue is not as black and white as characterized. :) the realities of each installation have to be considered.

Zero Waste - as in not throwing the waste water on the ground, but doing something with it. Again this could vary by house, but tank style water heaters are the usual solution and are also almost insignificantly expensive. If your scenario dictates that one of these RO systems was the best solution, feeding micron and carbon filtered water to my heater wouldn't be a major concern to me. Especially if the heater is being flushed regularly.

It may be worth stating what I've implied: bucket heaters and zero waste systems should be completely unnecessary in most scenarios. :)

-Matt

P.S. How about a bucket heater on a battery, charged by a solar panel? Limited, but no ongoing wasted energy.
 
AZDesertRat - I got the new capillary flow restrictor and installed it. My waste to clean ratio is much better now. IIRC I ran it for a few minutes and it came out to about 7 or 8:1. Not quite the 4:1 that I'm looking for. Now for the question... if I trim the restrictor to a shorter length, will that waste ratio come closer to 4:1 or no? I don't know exactly how these things work so I figured I'd do better to ask first.
 
You may have the incorrect capillary tube for your membrane or it has already been trimmed?
If the waste ratio is less than 4:1 you trim the restrictor, if it is greater than 4:1 you need a longer restrictor.
If your water temperature is pretty cold right now and warms considerably in the summer you may hang on to what you have and see how it performs with the warmer water, it should go down warmer water is more fluid and passes through the mmebrane easier.
 

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