Rodi

justingraham

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how come they say to throw away the fist 30 gallons of water?
I tested the tds at zero
Also is that 30 gallons of total water or only good water?
Confusing stuff
Also the aquatic life rodi buddie is awesome easy to set up and almost unnoticeable
I made five gallons in 45 mins compared to the two to three hours before so if ur on the fence I would invest in one
IMG_0670.JPG
 
So you don't place the initial store chemicals and carbon particles that are release when first started up.
 
how come they say to throw away the fist 30 gallons of water?
I tested the tds at zero

TDS creep. You'll get a TDS reading with the first water leaving the filter.

But I've never heard of throwing the first 30 gallons down the drain. Seems terribly excessive to me.
I'd run the filter for a few minutes, take readings, & when TDS is zero the waters good to go.'
 
I have a bypass valve and dump the first few gallons out.

Now I have a question for the Op: What is the white box gadget all the water tubes are going into and coming out of? No idea what that is, but I want one!
 
The idea is new filter cartridges, membranes and DI resins have preservatives, dust and chemicals on them.
When setting up a new system or when changing filters you should first disconnect the line from the carbon block up to the RO membrane and also disconnect the line from the RO membrane to the DI or do not install the DI resin cartridge yet. Start by removing the carbon block(s), reinstall the housing then flush the sediment filter only for a few minutes to remove the preservatives, glues, binders and dust from the manufacturing process. Next you install the carbon block and again flush the sediment plus carbon to flush out and carbon fines or dust. If you have a second carbon install it and do it all over again. Then you reconnect the line to the RO membrane and make a minimum of 3-5 gallons of RO only water to the drain to flush out the preservatives. You can monitor this with your handheld TDS meter and will see when the TDS reaches its lowest point and is steady. Finally install the DI cartridge and make a couple of gallons of DI water to the drain to rinse out the compounds the resin is packed and shipped in.
Now you are ready to make water. At this time it is a good idea to get baseline readings and write them down. Things like water pressure, water temperature, exact measured waste ratio, tap TDS, RO only TDS and final RO/DI TDS are good to have when it comes time to troubleshoot the system or to help with when to change DI cartridges and membranes.
 
Thanks everyone

I just plugged it together and ran it and got zero tds coming out so I guess it's good?
Azdessert thanks that was helpful but how do u check the temp and where do you check the temp at?
Bluecursor that's would be the smart rodi buddy. Thing is great automatic flushes a booster pump and auto shut off valuable all in one all for 129(I got mine on sale for 114 from aquatic Depot ) well worth it I'm now making water faster then I ever have
Thanks again everyone
 
I measure my water temperature with my handheld TDS meters. Both the HM Digital COM-100 and AP-1 I own have thermometers built into them and so does their COM-80, TDS-3 and TDS-4TM models.
 
I will have to look into this as I only have the inline ones and two blue hand held ones.
While I have u here where do u recomend I put the inline ones at? I have two so I was thinking before the DI and the other after the membrane
 
I never use my two dual inlines, they lack accuracy since they are not temperature compensated and cannot be calibrated. If you do use them the IN probe should be after the RO membrane and the OUT probe after the DI filter. They never agreed with any of my handhelds though so when the batteries went dead I never replaced them. The tees the probes stick in make good places to install a short piece of 1/4" tubing and a ball valve for drawing samples to test with the handheld meter.
 
Thats a RODI booster pump sold by Aquatic Life. A must have if you have low water pressure or well water.
 

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