RODI

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Sorry, didn't have time to study every post in this thread carefully, but have you verified that a brand new RO membrane gets an appropriate rejection rate on the TDS and that the explanation for rapid DI depletion is not just CO2 getting through? I didn't see that sort of discussion after someone initially asked about new membrane function.
 
Sorry, didn't have time to study every post in this thread carefully, but have you verified that a brand new RO membrane gets an appropriate rejection rate on the TDS and that the explanation for rapid DI depletion is not just CO2 getting through? I didn't see that sort of discussion after someone initially asked about new membrane function.
A new membrane works great but as it gets older it loses its effectiveness and consequently I use DI very fast to maintain 0 tds, I am not sure what your reference to CO2 is all about so I cannot speak to that. I am going to try a different restrictor and see if I can force more water thru the membrane. The interesting thing is these systems are mostly bullet proof if you just use a quality membrane and the proper pre-filters.
 
A new membrane works great but as it gets older it loses its effectiveness and consequently I use DI very fast to maintain 0 tds, I am not sure what your reference to CO2 is all about so I cannot speak to that. I am going to try a different restrictor and see if I can force more water thru the membrane. The interesting thing is these systems are mostly bullet proof if you just use a quality membrane and the proper pre-filters.

The CO2 reference is what we were referring to when we asked about city or well water. Pre filters do not remove CO2 from the water and it chews through DI. Having CO2 in your water from the city is pretty rare but very common in well water. Using a different flow restrictor will actually force less water through the membrane and not more. Having a 1:4 product to waste ratio helps keep build up from forming on the outside of the membrane and prematurely clogging it.
 
A new membrane works great but as it gets older it loses its effectiveness and consequently I use DI very fast to maintain 0 tds, I am not sure what your reference to CO2 is all about so I cannot speak to that. I am going to try a different restrictor and see if I can force more water thru the membrane. The interesting thing is these systems are mostly bullet proof if you just use a quality membrane and the proper pre-filters.

CO2 in source water (usually wells) easily gets through an RO and rapidly depletes a DI. It is a big problem for many folks.

https://www.aquaticlife.com/blog/how-co2-can-impact-di-resin-consumption/
 
A new membrane works great but as it gets older it loses its effectiveness and consequently I use DI very fast to maintain 0 tds, I am not sure what your reference to CO2 is all about so I cannot speak to that. I am going to try a different restrictor and see if I can force more water thru the membrane. The interesting thing is these systems are mostly bullet proof if you just use a quality membrane and the proper pre-filters.

You said the your current ratio was 2:1 I would try to force less water thru the membrane and get to a 4:1 ratio
 
The CO2 reference is what we were referring to when we asked about city or well water. Pre filters do not remove CO2 from the water and it destroys membranes faster than chlorine does. Having CO2 in your water from the city is pretty rare but very common in well water. Using a different flow restrictor will actually force less water through the membrane and not more. Having a 1:4 product to waste ratio helps keep build up from forming on the outside of the membrane and prematurely clogging it.
Makes sense. I don't have well water
You said the your current ratio was 2:1 I would try to force less water thru the membrane and get to a 4:1 ratio
That is the plan but I am afraid that this membrane may already be shot.
 
You might also try try collecting your RO water (with DI disconnected). Aerate the RO water with an air pump and air stone overnight and then run it through the DI resin separately.
 
Makes sense. I don't have well water

That is the plan but I am afraid that this membrane may already be shot.

Can you take a picture of your system, right now as it Is? And particular the RO housing? I had asked earlier but you might have missed it
 
Can you take a picture of your system, right now as it Is? And particular the RO housing? I had asked earlier but you might have missed it

IMG_0686.JPG
 
Is there a slight gap between the bottom of the casing cap and the actual body? If so, to me, this points directly to an improperly seated membrane. When inserted all the way the cap should screw ALLL the way to the bottom of the threads. You would be surprised as to how much force you need to push the membrane all the way in to it's seat.

Screenshot_20181020-100829.jpg
 
That and a 1:2 product to waste ratio seem to be your only issues, realistically if your membrane works excellent at the beginning then deteriorates over time it's more than likely the low waste flow that's your issue. But ensuring the membrane is properly seated is important as well.
 
That and a 1:2 product to waste ratio seem to be your only issues, realistically if your membrane works excellent at the beginning then deteriorates over time it's more than likely the low waste flow that's your issue. But ensuring the membrane is properly seated is important as well.
I will double check the seating but I am certain that it is in all of the way. I have a new restrictor ordered but I suppose nothing will change if the membrane is ruined.
 
Using a 5 micron carbon block isn't ideal, but it certainly would not toast membranes in 7 months.

Chlorine/chloramine would be the only thing that destroys a membrane, correct? Assuming you're not running scolding hot water through it, lol.

My thought was maybe the carbon was exhausted.
 
Chlorine/chloramine would be the only thing that destroys a membrane, correct? Assuming you're not running scolding hot water through it, lol.

My thought was maybe the carbon was exhausted.

yes, aside from things that shouldn't be in drinking water.
 
Randy's question re CO2 is a good one, but the effect of CO2 is consistent over time - so you'd not see a new membrane perform well... and then not so well over time.
 
Is there a slight gap between the bottom of the casing cap and the actual body? If so, to me, this points directly to an improperly seated membrane. When inserted all the way the cap should screw ALLL the way to the bottom of the threads. You would be surprised as to how much force you need to push the membrane all the way in to it's seat.

Screenshot_20181020-100829.jpg

This "gap" varies by brand of RO membrane housing. If the lid wasn't screwed on far enough, then it would leak at the oring
 
So I replaced the restrictor and now I am doing worse, getting a 1:1 ratio where before I was getting twice as much waste water. Not sure how I am going to get to 4:1.
 
Please call in.

Russ
513-312-2343
Hi Russ,
You folks tried to help me on two occasions with no success so I see no reason to go for three and waste your time. The last time we spoke I replaced the membrane housing on the chance it may have a hairline crack. I reseated the membrane, we talked about pressure and temperature. In the end the only thing that works is to replace the membrane to save on DI and that gets to be about a toss up in cost. I was surprised that I tried two different capillary restrictors and neither one worked any better than my regulary 550 inline restrictor. I guess the good news is that I only use about 75 gallons of RODI per month :)
 

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