RODI

This is what I bought for my 55G.. I will set it up next weekend (it just arrived and I need some longer tubes to plumb it in where I intend to place it.)


Cheers,
Steve
This the system I got four months ago. I just added the BRS two-stage DI canisters because the single small DI canister on this goes pretty quick. Other than that it’s been pretty good.
 
Just go with the brs 75gpd
What's the difference between the 4 stage and 4 stage plus? Just a tds meter?
and the pressure gauge.
Pst, I’ll let you in on a secret: if the unit uses standard 10” housings, you can add stages later. Several places sell “add on” canisters, nothing says you can’t put it in front to shift things around. Most folks add it on the end to add a second DI bed. These systems are very easy to adapt to what you need now and down the road.
this is true also . Another thing just because somebody’s Rodi setup has been running without changing cartridges for a year or two doesn’t mean it’ll do the same for you. Whatever is in your water and water pressure will play a big role on how it will run for you.
 
Get an RODI system that lets you add a second RO unit. This will produce twice the RODI water with half the waste. Big game changer that saves significant time, money, and waste water.
 
1. Get rid of or orient that horizontal DI vertically with bottom up flow
2. When the time comes, get rid of that GE membrane and get a Filmtec. The Filmtec's will produce the same amount of water with 10 psi less pressure; or will produce more than the GE at an identical pressure. The 75 Filmtec also has a higher rejection rate.
3. Keep an eye on the male threads at the top of the clear housings for cracks - they have a history of developing in that sort of housing.
4. Add a pressure gauge that reads after the three prefilters and before the membrane.
5. Get rid of the GAC prefilter - it is old technology - replace it with a good carbon block - better performance at a similar price.
6. Assuming you are on city water without chloramine - when you buy replacement filters, use a 1 micron sediment filter rather than the 5 micron that was in there originally.
7. When you replace that carbon block, opt for a 0.5 micron Chlorine Grabber - a much better block.
8. Consider adding an auto shut off valve if you'd like that functionality.
9. Consider adding an inline TDS meter.
Russ
 
1. Get rid of or orient that horizontal DI vertically with bottom up flow
2. When the time comes, get rid of that GE membrane and get a Filmtec. The Filmtec's will produce the same amount of water with 10 psi less pressure; or will produce more than the GE at an identical pressure. The 75 Filmtec also has a higher rejection rate.
3. Keep an eye on the male threads at the top of the clear housings for cracks - they have a history of developing in that sort of housing.
4. Add a pressure gauge that reads after the three prefilters and before the membrane.
5. Get rid of the GAC prefilter - it is old technology - replace it with a good carbon block - better performance at a similar price.
6. Assuming you are on city water without chloramine - when you buy replacement filters, use a 1 micron sediment filter rather than the 5 micron that was in there originally.
7. When you replace that carbon block, opt for a 0.5 micron Chlorine Grabber - a much better block.
8. Consider adding an auto shut off valve if you'd like that functionality.
9. Consider adding an inline TDS meter.
Russ
Wow, thank you. I have already added a pressure gauge and auto shutoff and will definitely replace the GAC with carbon block when that time comes. I’ll also look into the filmtec membranes as I am considering adding a second membrane for improved efficiency.
 
If you need clips to hold that 2" diameter DI vertically: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/housing-clip/

Filmtec membranes (24 to 100 gpd): https://www.buckeyehydro.com/residential-ro-membranes/

Pressure gauge add on kit: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/pressure-gauges-1/

Carbon blocks: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/carbon-1/

1 micron sediment filter: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/1-micron-depth-sediment-cartridge/

Auto Shut Off Valve (ASOV): https://www.buckeyehydro.com/automatic-shut-off-valves/
Check Valve: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/check-valves/
ASOV Kit: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/auto-shut-off-valve-kit/

If you have three prefilters, and RO, and two DI stages, then you'll want to know the tds at 4 locations. Best way to do that is two DM1 inline TDS meters: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/dm1-dual-inline-tds-meter/

Russ
 

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