RODI

trsmith18

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R2R

I have a 4 stage RODI unit and was wondering how often does everyone change out their cartridges?

I can’t see into any of them but the final stage and I don’t have a TDS meter

just wondering if this is something people do annually…etc
 
My goal is to get 12 months, but, it requires watching the tds.

Sometimes, the tds creeps up prematurely due to channeling or some other issue even when the media is not spent. Sometimes RO membranes just crap out for no good reason.
 
This really depends on how much water you make and how bad your source water is. For example My sediment filters last for years. I have literally not changed my sediment filter in 3 years and it still looks fine and I have no pressure drop, but I need to change my carbon blocks every 6 months or I get chlorine breakthrough and my DI resign gets changed about 3 times per year. I strongly suggest you use color changing DI resign to replace when the color has changed and replace Sediment and carbon filters every 6 months.

If you think you can get longer out of your sediment and carbon you should monitor your pressure to ensure the sediment filter is not clogged and test your waste water to make sure there is no chlorine breaking through. It is absolutely horrible when you need to buy a $60-80 membrane because you didn't replace $20 of prefilters and your membrane got destroyed.
 
It really depends on your source water and how much water you make.
 
R2R

I have a 4 stage RODI unit and was wondering how often does everyone change out their cartridges?

I can’t see into any of them but the final stage and I don’t have a TDS meter

just wondering if this is something people do annually…etc
I do my DI resin when its about 3/4 color changed, however best practice with that is to get 2 containers for the DI resin so you dont waste that much, as far as the hard filter id say 6-10 months depending on how many water changes. You dont want it to get nasty brown and still try to use the water. I have the BRS 4 stage 75gal. it was a hefty purchase at the time but now with how many water changes i do and filling my ATO there would be no other option that would be this efficient.
 
currently using this one off Amazon. Only cartridge I can see is the DI resin. Maybe I’ll buy a TDS meter. To check the output and go off that?

Handheld TDS meter is nice to have but it looks like that RO/DI unit has room to install inline sensors, if you wanted to.

For $25 (allegedly on sale) right now, you could get this and put one probe right after the RO membrane and the other probe on the final output:

HM Digital DM-1 for $25
 
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Handheld TDS meter is nice to have but it looks like that RO/DI unit has room to install inline sensors, if you wanted to.

For $25 (allegedly on sale) right now, you could get this and put one probe right after the RO membrane and the other probe on the final output:

HM Digital DM-1 for $25
So you recommend measuring after the RO and the after the DI instead of on the original feed line and the final output?

Is this to diagnose with the RO membrane fails?
 
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Ideally, monitor the incoming water, the water after the RO AND the water after the DI. This way, you can calculate your rejection rate, pick up a change in the source water, and make sure your DI is working properly.

And, yes, if your RO membrane fails you will pick it up before you burn through multiple DI cannisters.
 
So you recommend measuring after the RO and the after the DI instead of on the original feed line and the final output?

Is this to diagnose with the RO membrane fails?
That's the norm so you can see when TDS coming out of your RO starts going up and decide when to change the RO membrane.

Then final lets you see when to change DI (once it goes above zero).

Would be good to know source water too ... there is a 3-probe inline meter also for about $30,,, or handheld to check your source water.
 
Ok so I went with the 2 probe inline system and installed as follows. One after the RO membrane and one after the DI membrane that goes out to my bucket for holding RODI water.

current reading after the RO is 113 and after the DI is 0. So that’s good regarding the final product.

So when will I know it’s time I change out the filter, carbon block and DO membranes? The RI resin is color coded and I assume when the TDS gets above 0, whichever happens first.

Any comments would be appreciated.
 

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The reading after the RO is pretty high, that will chew up your DI resin quickly.

Do you know the reading of the source water? A good membrane should reject 95 - 99% (depending on what you buy) if working properly.

For example, my source water is about 100 tds, out the membrane I am happy with 3 (97% rejection) and 0 after the DI is mandatory. My DI resin will last for a year. But... if I was getting 100 after the RO, I would know that I had a ruptured membrane and my DI will last about 2 weeks if I am lucky.
 
I was about to ask a similar question as the OP. I upgraded my RODI filter specifically so I don't have to replace the media as often (because of the inconvenience, not the cost). I'm seeing the sediment filter turn yellow, but the pressure (with a booster) is still 90ish PSI, so that should be fine. However, the TDS coming out of the RO side has just started to creep up, but it's still zero at the end.
I'm assuming as long as the pressure remains high and the TDS at the end is zero, I'm in good shape.
 
currently using this one off Amazon. Only cartridge I can see is the DI resin. Maybe I’ll buy a TDS meter. To check the output and go off that?

I have the same filter system and proactively change out my sediment and carbon every 6 months, the RO and DI once a year. Usually test the product water while filling up my RO/DI Brute storage container with a pen style TDS meter. Unless my TDS reading is over 1-2, then it’s time to replace. One day I’ll upgrade to the BRS RO/DI system. The twist in cartridges are just so easy.
 
Ok so I went with the 2 probe inline system and installed as follows. One after the RO membrane and one after the DI membrane that goes out to my bucket for holding RODI water.

current reading after the RO is 113 and after the DI is 0. So that’s good regarding the final product.

So when will I know it’s time I change out the filter, carbon block and DO membranes? The RI resin is color coded and I assume when the TDS gets above 0, whichever happens first.

Any comments would be appreciated.

113 is extremely high for RO water but from your picture it look like you have the sensor on the waste line.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water before it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. https://www.buckeyehydro.com/the-chlorine-grabber-0-5-micron/
Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how “dirty” the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.
 
Last post has a lot of good information.

One thing I do for monitoring lifespan of carbon blocks that I haven't seen specifically called out is:
Test post-carbon block water for total chlorine -- if I start seeing any, (I think) that means the carbon blocks need to be replaced.
*I also monitor pressure between carbon blocks and RO membrane as others have mentioned

Sediment filters are cheap so I just replace those when they start looking dirty (just visually), before any pressure drop seen pre-RO.

Not saying any of the above is best practice,,, just seems to be working for me
 

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