Rolled the Dice. Did it Wrong. Do it again . . .

Maritimer · Jan 29, 2016

After reading what seemed like a lot of "my fish didn't make it through QT" posts while setting up my system, I took the risk of adding un-quarantined fish to my 65g DT. Added a percula and he got hammered with Ich, (granddaughter's favorite, natch) and it's time to take two steps back and try to make it right.

I've got a 40B that I'll be setting up as a reserve for the remaining fish (all of whom seem in perfect health, save one zebra-bar dartfish with a bump on his chin ... given the speed at which they hide, I'm surprised they don't crash into things more often!) while allowing a fallow period for the 65. (Or, I could use my son's spare 55g...)

Will medicate while they're all on vacation, and hope they enjoy all the 'pods they find on their return . . .

<kicks self. again.>

~Bruce

dbl · Feb 3, 2016

Sorry about the Ich issue. We can only grow stronger by learning from what's successful and what's not. There will be those that will debate QT vs. no QT. I for one have been lucky playing Russian Roulette, but I've read too many stories like yours to take that gamble again. My plan is to QT for any new additions. Good luck with the removal process.

Humblefish · Feb 3, 2016

Proper quarantine, like everything else in this hobby, is a learned skill. The more you do it, the more comfortable you will become with it, the more successful you will become at it. People forget about all the corals we killed before we got good at keeping them.

Maritimer · Feb 3, 2016

Thanks, dbl & Humblefish ...

The way I figure it, if the post gives one person pause, saves one fish's life . . . it's all to the good.

I've got some ceramic bio-rings simmering in my sump, and when I think they're good and colonized with bacteria, I'll do a water change into the QT, and begin the whole process. Just gotta figure out where to set up the QT, and get some help moving the glass box into position. (>_<) Then the long trudge of maintaining two systems for the forseeable . . .

~Bruce, who seems to think he's got things figured out - but probably doesn't . . .

Maritimer · Feb 4, 2016

Dr. Humblefish, a question that I'm sure you have the answer to . . .

For quarantine, is RO/DI required, as it is for the DT, or is it merely recommended? (Have the feeling I'm going to push the capacity of my RO/DI unit and/or myself in making up saltwater for two separate systems . . . QT looks like it's going to be the 40-B, which needs a lot of cleaning-up beforehand, as it was last used for goldfish.)

~Bruce

Humblefish · Feb 4, 2016

Maritimer said:
For quarantine, is RO/DI required, as it is for the DT, or is it merely recommended?

More recommended than required. In a pinch, I've used RO "waste water" from my RODI to fill my QT. That's better than using tap water which requires a dechlorinator, such as Prime, to make it safe. Using Prime would be a quagmire in your particular situation, as the resulting chemical interaction with copper (to treat ich) will turn copper toxic and kill all of your fish.

omykiss001 · Feb 4, 2016

I feel your pain brother. Currently maintaining 3 tanks. My main display, my 40B where the fish went after ich treatment and my normal QT as I'm getting close to the end of my fallow period and have 2 new guys in there. I too learned my lesson the hard way. Ich came in on a coral as I was very diligent in QT of my fish. I did dip my corals, but still in came the ich. Further more I also got polyclad flatworms that love euphyllia corals. I think I've got them under control now.

Hence forth all items be it snails, shrimps, corals, or macro-algae will spend minimum 1 month in QT, probably longer to avoid this in the future.

Maritimer · Feb 4, 2016

Humblefish said:
More recommended than required. In a pinch, I've used RO "waste water" from my RODI to fill my QT. That's better than using tap water which requires a dechlorinator, such as Prime, to make it safe. Using Prime would be a quagmire in your particular situation, as the resulting chemical interaction with copper (to treat ich) will turn copper toxic and kill all of your fish.

Thank you!

Also helpful to my family and housemembers, who doubtless are annoyed enough by the RO/DI hooked up to the kitchen sink for half a day once a week as it is! Thanks, as well, for the warning about Prime.

~Bruce, who found "Quick Cure" and "Prazi-Pro" today, along with a bagful of bits and bobs of PVC . . . and whose bag of ceramic rings in the sump is now covered with the cutest little isopods and spinning baby shrimp. (I think the peppermint released a batch last night)