Ron Reefman's new 90g build

[JR Bodyman]

Small tanks are easy to build with a minimum of tools and just one person. The bigger tanks require more clamps (and maybe bigger clamps) and 2 people to handle the bigger and heavier glass panels.

It's really more about getting the glass cut by a company that does good work. My last build the glass had to go back because they didn't even get straight edges! Then comes taking your time and test fitting. Then a bit of confidence helps. Having the right tools (mostly clamps) helps. And finally knowing a few simple tricks. And I'm always willing to share!

I appreciate that Ron. I’ve been in the car and motorcycle business for a long time. Built many things. Worked with glass on cars and around the house but never an aquarium. I’ve repaired aquariums I’ve own in the past but never built one. Seems like it would be so cool and satisfying to do along with building a cabinet. I do know how to work with wood. It doesn’t get any more custom than than that. Your giving me inspiration to maybe go for it!

 

[Ron Reefman]

I appreciate that Ron. I’ve been in the car and motorcycle business for a long time. Built many things. Worked with glass on cars and around the house but never an aquarium. I’ve repaired aquariums I’ve own in the past but never built one. Seems like it would be so cool and satisfying to do along with building a cabinet. I do know how to work with wood. It doesn’t get any more custom than than that. Your giving me inspiration to maybe go for it!

If you ever decide to go for it, please feel free to get in touch with me and I'll share everything I know.

 

[jtl]

Ron, shouldn't the Reefbreeders brackets face the outside of the tank? Mine did as I recall.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Ron, shouldn't the Reefbreeders brackets face the outside of the tank? Mine did as I recall.

If they do, then the legs are on the inside of the tank. That is how I have them on my 16g RFA breeding tank and the adjusting screws corroded into the legs and can't be undone any more. That's why I did this set turned the other way. Now it's the plastic screws that are in/over the water and they don't rust.

 

[jtl]

If they do, then the legs are on the inside of the tank. That is how I have them on my 16g RFA breeding tank and the adjusting screws corroded into the legs and can't be undone any more. That's why I did this set turned the other way. Now it's the plastic screws that are in/over the water and they don't rust.

Maybe the design changed or I have forgotten how mine worked. Iirc my brackets had metal screws and both the screws and the legs were on the outside. I should dig up an old pic and double check.

 

[Ron Reefman]

The legs and metal screws that thread into them are on one side and the big plastic thumb screws that pin the bracket to the tank glass are on the other side. So somebody has to be in or over the water.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Yesterday I ordered new, longer, tiny bolts to attach my leds to the new diy brackets. I want the fixtures to hang down an inch or two under the brackets so the fans aren't blocked. I also bought a 1/4" x 36" x 30" sheet of acrylic to start the build of a screen for the tank. With the light fixtures getting off the legs they are on now, making the screen frame becomes MUCH easier (no cut outs around the legs and the new brackets will hang from the wall, not the back of the tank.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I got the diy brackets mounted to the wall yesterday. I decided that since I'm dropping the fixtures 1-2 inches under the brackets (for fan performance) that I raised the mounting on the wall. Now I have to wait until my new, longer bolts to hang the fixtures come in to Fastenal. Hopefully I'll get this finished over the weekend and can then get serious about the diy screen top.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I had great fun this morning driving my hot rod Miata (375hp) to the store in the light rain. I thought this car was crazy on dry roads. If it didn't have traction control it would be crazy to drive in the wet!

That trip was to pick up my tiny bolts for my led hangers. So I got home and went to work on my led fixtures. I pulled off the legs and cut off one adjustment hole to use as a nut in the top of the fixture. The new long bolts went in perfectly! Here is a before and after.

Now the top rim is much cleaner and I have access to the top rim of the glass all the way around so I can make a simple rectangle screen for the tank. The only cut outs will be for electrical cords. Yeah! ;Woot;Woot

Here are some close ups in case anybody is interested in how it went together.

Here you can see how the bracket was going to block the outside fans in the fixture. That's why the longer bolts. So the fixtures could hang down and allow air to pass through.

Now I need to figure out what to do to tidy up the power cords!

 

[najer]

Very clean looking.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Very clean looking.

Thanks, that was what I wanted. And now it will be MUCH easier to make a screen cover for the tank!

 

[count krunk]

Excuse me sir just what did you do to that Miata?? Comes out the factory around 150hp no?

 

[Ron Reefman]

Excuse me sir just what did you do to that Miata?? Comes out the factory around 150hp no?

Happy to tell you. It had a 166hp when new and stock. The owner before me added a turbo and at 12 pounds of boost (about all you want to subject a stock motor to) it made 235hp when I bought it. The local shop I use blew it up on their dyno. So we bought a used Ford 2.5 liter, stripped it down to nuts and bolts. I bought aftermarket high performance stuff like rods, pistons, cams, injectors, fuel pump, flywheel, clutch and a whole lot more little stuff. Now we can run that motor at 18 pounds of boost safely. We are still doing some fine tuning to the ECU (computer) to get better drivability and peak performance. When done it should make over 400hp at the rear wheels (almost 450hp at the engine).

It also has all new suspension under the car. As I tell my friends in our local Miata Club, it looks like a Miata, handles like a Porsche and goes like a Corvette. I have yet to do a 0 to 60mph run, but my best guess is under 6 seconds easy, even on skinny tires! It shocks the heck out of big V8 Camaro and Mustang drivers when they step on it and I keep up or pass them!

On the dyno a month ago where it pulled 325hp at just 14 pounds of boost and a damaged waste gate in the turbo. That's over 350hp at the engine.

I can't wait to get it broken in and take it out to do a Track Day event again. This was at Palm Beach International back with the old engine.

 

[count krunk]

awesome! I want to get a del sol someday and do similar things to it.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Del Sol is a cool car as well! If we ever get back to 'normal' and have a Reef-A-Palooza in Orlando, I'll drive it up and we can meet. We could go out for lunch, I'll drive!

 

[Ron Reefman]

I added some black rubber hose as a wrap on the skinny bolts hanging down from the led bracket to the fixtures. It looks more substantial and it actually made the fixtures MUCH more stable.

Now I get to start on the screen cover!

 

[Ron Reefman]

I've added some new fish to my tank and I've been adding some small, locally caught grass shrimp to the tank. I've had a clown and a file fish go tile surfing already and the shrimp regularly jump out. Heck, some of the Narite snails climb out as well.

So I've decided it's time to build a screen cover for the tank. I bought a piece od clear acrylic that is exactly the size as the outside dimensions of my tank (36" by 30.75"). I decided to make the front and sides 1 3/8". The glass sides of the tank take up 3/8th and I have 1 inch to capture the screen with acrylic strips of 1" that will fit just inside the tank and hold it in place. I did the cut with a table saw and then finished the cuts at the ends with a hand saw. The back is wider for extra strength and it also goes over the overflow at the back of the tank.

Then I took the center that was cut out and cut 5 strips that are just under 1" wide and just over 33" long. These will be glued to the underside of the frame.

More later, but now I have breakfast and a Formula 1 race to watch! ;Stig;Stig;Stig

 

[jtl]

I've added some new fish to my tank and I've been adding some small, locally caught grass shrimp to the tank. I've had a clown and a file fish go tile surfing already and the shrimp regularly jump out. Heck, some of the Narite snails climb out as well.

So I've decided it's time to build a screen cover for the tank. I bought a piece od clear acrylic that is exactly the size as the outside dimensions of my tank (36" by 30.75"). I decided to make the front and sides 1 3/8". The glass sides of the tank take up 3/8th and I have 1 inch to capture the screen with acrylic strips of 1" that will fit just inside the tank and hold it in place. I did the cut with a table saw and then finished the cuts at the ends with a hand saw. The back is wider for extra strength and it also goes over the overflow at the back of the tank.

Then I took the center that was cut out and cut 5 strips that are just under 1" wide and just over 33" long. These will be glued to the underside of the frame.

More later, but now I have breakfast and a Formula 1 race to watch! ;Stig;Stig;Stig

Ron, similar to what I did only I purchased 3/8" thick strips and glued them together to form my frame. Then I cut a grove around the perimeter just wide enough to hold the edge of the clear mesh cover and the spline. It worked out great and looked so much nicer that the ones made from window screen kits. It was similar to the ones sold by Clearview except they do theirs in one piece which at the size I needed the material was pretty expensive with shipping. Also I used polycarbonate for its strength (I dropped mine many times and it never broke) and ability to stand up to moisture and not warp.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I like the grove and spline idea John, that makes the screen replaceable.

Here is my frame with the paper removed, sitting on the edge of the tank and the strips are sitting on top of the frame so I could confirm the fit.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Then I laid out the soft clear mesh and started bonding the screen and the inside strips down one at a time, keeping the screen pulled snug. After allowing the acrylic bond to set up, I did a test fit. I had to shave down a couple spots there the strips didn't quite fit inside the rim of the tank. After that, I drilled a hole near the back so the durso air line could stick up through the frame.

Now I've done 2 notches in the back so the electrical cords to the wavemakers could come out of the tank and not hold the back of the frame off the glass rim. And I took some 100 grit sandpaper and sanded the top and outside edges of the frame. The edges just to smooth them out and the top of the frame to make it look hazy and almost opaque.