Rose BTA: Stuck in back corner in tank

[LuisJr80]

Hi,

So in my 16 gallon tank my Rose BTA has been in the back corner of my tank between the aquascape and the glass for a few days now and it seems to just be hangin out there. Its not attached to any substrate just floating there. I really want her to find a place on the rocks but have had no success. The water flow also moves her around so even if she did get by a rocky area, it doesn't give her enough time to grab before she is off again.

Any suggestion?

 

[Rick's Reviews]

Turn of flow and let ' her ' find footings/ grab hold of a place it likes.

I assume it may get churned up and cause alot more problems.

 

[LuisJr80]

Turn of flow and let ' her ' find footings/ grab hold of a place it likes.

I assume it may get churned up and cause alot more problems.

I think its a "her" because she is pink lol but who am I to say....I turned off the flow but she is not moving as that corner was a dead zone for circulation. Will she move on her own or do I need to give her a gentle push or place her on a rocky ledge?

 

[Jekyl]

Getting hands on shouldn't happen unless removing for treatment. The more you mess with it, the higher the stress level. Tank age? Parameters? Lighting being used? More than likely your issue lies in the answer to these questions rather than flow.

 

[LuisJr80]

Turn of flow and let ' her ' find footings/ grab hold of a place it likes.

I assume it may get churned up and cause alot more problems.

Sorry for the color scheme but you can see that it looks like she is trying to grab ahold of the back of the tank.

 

[Jekyl]

Sorry for the color scheme but you can see that it looks like she is trying to grab ahold of the back of the tank.

Take some white light photos please. Blues hide clues.

 

[LuisJr80]

Getting hands on shouldn't happen unless removing for treatment. The more you mess with it, the higher the stress level. Tank age? Parameters? Lighting being used? More than likely your issue lies in the answer to these questions rather than flow.

Yeah I dont want to touch her either and jet her do her thing.

 

[LuisJr80]

Take some white light photos please. Blues hide clues.

Here you go…

 

[Jekyl]

Looking at your threads I can see that this is a brand new tank. The only solution here is to return the anemone if so. I'm not being mean, it just has little to no chance at survival.

 

[LuisJr80]

Looking at your threads I can see that this is a brand new tank. The only solution here is to return the anemone if so. I'm not being mean, it just has little to no chance at survival.

Really? Please elaborate.

 

[Jekyl]

Anemone while very hardy animals have some requirements. A mature tank, I recommend 9 months give or take. Strong lighting, mine sit right under a kessil 360 at 95%. Last is stable parameters in the ranges of 10 nitrate, .05 phosphate, 8.5 alk.

 

[Rick's Reviews]

Take some white light photos please. Blues hide clues.

I like that quote ' blues hide clues'
I'll add to my posts
'if in doubt throw it out '

 

[Rick's Reviews]

Sorry for the color scheme but you can see that it looks like she is trying to grab ahold of the back of the tank.

Possibly trying to find its place in aquriam, they will move to suit Thier best needs, not for your needs if that makes sense.
I want to ask what if any wavemakers/ flow you have in your aquarium?
If possible turn these if or down.

I have jaebo/ that have night mode. It automatically turns off flow to minimize current at night? Do you have something similar?

 

[LuisJr80]

Anemone while very hardy animals have some requirements. A mature tank, I recommend 9 months give or take. Strong lighting, mine sit right under a kessil 360 at 95%. Last is stable parameters in the ranges of 10 nitrate, .05 phosphate, 8.5 alk.

Yeah my tank is only over a month and a half old and just added some live stock about 2 weeks ago (cycled my tank in 3 weeks). I test every week and my parameters are really good, as per my LFS. I also just upgrade my lights to Reef Breeders' Nano LED, but honestly still trying to figure oy the light %.

Nitrate= 13
Phosphate=1.4
pH= 8

 

[LuisJr80]

Possibly trying to find its place in aquriam, they will move to suit Thier best needs, not for your needs if that makes sense.
I want to ask what if any wavemakers/ flow you have in your aquarium?
If possible turn these if or down.

I have jaebo/ that have night mode. It automatically turns off flow to minimize current at night? Do you have something similar?

It makes total sense and yes I do have a wavemaker/flow. I turned them off a little while ago. No mine are not that techy lol.

 

[Jekyl]

Yeah my tank is only over a month and a half old and just added some live stock about 2 weeks ago (cycled my tank in 3 weeks). I test every week and my parameters are really good, as per my LFS. I also just upgrade my lights to Reef Breeders' Nano LED, but honestly still trying to figure oy the light %.

Nitrate= 13
Phosphate=1.4
pH= 8

Lighting and parameters aren't going to help this situation in 99% of occasions. Anemone need grandma's house, not an operating room. You can roll the dice as many others do, however I'd be trying to get my money back.

 

[Cell]

That's no bta.

 

[Jekyl]

That's no bta.

Agreed

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi,

So in my 16 gallon tank my Rose BTA has been in the back corner of my tank between the aquascape and the glass for a few days now and it seems to just be hangin out there. Its not attached to any substrate just floating there. I really want her to find a place on the rocks but have had no success. The water flow also moves her around so even if she did get by a rocky area, it doesn't give her enough time to grab before she is off again.

Any suggestion?

This is likely a long tip and not Bubble anemone

factors affectings this will be:
Immature tank
Improper acclimation
Too much water flow

Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy and theyre not recommended for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must as they are sensitive to water changes and require prime conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole.
The most important thing you’ll need to do is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This assures that conditions are stable and safe. Water should be on the alkali side as well so monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be safe range at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: 77°F - 80°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
• Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
• Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5
• Phosphate < .04 - .06

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists soon find out that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These anemones enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.

 

[LuisJr80]

This is likely a long tip and not Bubble anemone

factors affectings this will be:
Immature tank
Improper acclimation
Too much water flow

Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy and theyre not recommended for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must as they are sensitive to water changes and require prime conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole.
The most important thing you’ll need to do is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This assures that conditions are stable and safe. Water should be on the alkali side as well so monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be safe range at all times using a good quality test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: 77°F - 80°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.3
• Alk: 8 to 11 dKH
• Salinity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5
• Phosphate < .04 - .06

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to thrive because they’re photosynthetic which means that they absorb light to produce food and growth. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms that they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists soon find out that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your flow directly at the anemone. These anemones enjoy subtle movement at all times but too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.

Thank you for the correction and the lecture! Really informative.