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In the hope of helping others with DIY LED Builds here is one I done a few months ago from start to finish: (Along with installing 2 Profilux Full Weather Simulation SimuSpots LED units also)
For the Main LED my objective was for a 3 channel setup independent control of Whites, Blues and Royal Blues all with dimmable drivers which will be connected to the Profilux.
The shopping cart consisted of the following: (Please bear in mind I had no clue on how LED lights worked, or how to set voltage, check voltage and never soldered anything in my life before either)
4.25" x 16" Aluminum Heat Sink (Shorter than what I would like but should give me room for some additional fans in the hood.)
3 x ELN-60-48D Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver (0-10V Control)
3 x 3-Prong Power Cord
6 x Wire Connectors/Nuts
AA Battery LED Tester
Arctic Silver Premium Thermal Adhesive
8 x CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED on star
8 XCREE XP-E Royal Blue 3W LED on star
8 x CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
Pre-cut/stripped Wire
Soldering Iron and Solder
Multimeter
Lets start with the Full Weather SimuSpots Install. These are used for sunrise/sunset, moon phases and thunder storm simulation connected and diming controlled by the Profilux 3ex. As I've got 2 I'm using a splitter cable so only using 1 on the L ports on the computer. Once I run through the lighting scenarios later tonight when its dark I'll take some photos of the effect.
So firstly I had to take apart the hood. (Out with the PC's also to make space for the main DIY LED which I'll get to later)
While the hood is off I wanted to measure up everything to ensure I get the correct sized heat sink
For the spots to go in I needed all the space I can get so firstly off with the PC's connection.
4 screws later, job done
I then started to play around with placement to figure out size, and how to secure
Quick measure for heat sink space with spots temporarily in place
More fat to be removed, the PC ballast. Held in with only 2 screws
Disconnecting the ballast is pretty easy
Next task was to start checking for how to mount the spots onto the hood. I was checking under the metal sheet for option
When I decided, why not just use the metal sheet and attached direct to it.
4 holes later
A couple of nuts and bolts on each
and voila
Hood reassembled & Splash guard put back on again
Back in place on the tank and happy with the result so far
For the Main LED my objective was for a 3 channel setup independent control of Whites, Blues and Royal Blues all with dimmable drivers which will be connected to the Profilux.
The shopping cart consisted of the following: (Please bear in mind I had no clue on how LED lights worked, or how to set voltage, check voltage and never soldered anything in my life before either)
4.25" x 16" Aluminum Heat Sink (Shorter than what I would like but should give me room for some additional fans in the hood.)
3 x ELN-60-48D Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver (0-10V Control)
3 x 3-Prong Power Cord
6 x Wire Connectors/Nuts
AA Battery LED Tester
Arctic Silver Premium Thermal Adhesive
8 x CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED on star
8 XCREE XP-E Royal Blue 3W LED on star
8 x CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED on Star
Pre-cut/stripped Wire
Soldering Iron and Solder
Multimeter
Lets start with the Full Weather SimuSpots Install. These are used for sunrise/sunset, moon phases and thunder storm simulation connected and diming controlled by the Profilux 3ex. As I've got 2 I'm using a splitter cable so only using 1 on the L ports on the computer. Once I run through the lighting scenarios later tonight when its dark I'll take some photos of the effect.
So firstly I had to take apart the hood. (Out with the PC's also to make space for the main DIY LED which I'll get to later)
While the hood is off I wanted to measure up everything to ensure I get the correct sized heat sink
For the spots to go in I needed all the space I can get so firstly off with the PC's connection.
4 screws later, job done
I then started to play around with placement to figure out size, and how to secure
Quick measure for heat sink space with spots temporarily in place
More fat to be removed, the PC ballast. Held in with only 2 screws
Disconnecting the ballast is pretty easy
Next task was to start checking for how to mount the spots onto the hood. I was checking under the metal sheet for option
When I decided, why not just use the metal sheet and attached direct to it.
4 holes later
A couple of nuts and bolts on each
and voila
Hood reassembled & Splash guard put back on again
Back in place on the tank and happy with the result so far
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