ruppertb's 180g Build
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ruppertb
Valuable Member
Well the tank is finished cycling it took quite a while. the first fish to be added was my blue hippo tang who has been through thick and thin she is about 2 years old and has lived in our 75 and when we relocated was moved to a 55 packed full of live rock and then a 20 gallon while the 55 was cleaned and rock moved.well she is loving the extra room in the tank getting used to the extra flow from the 4 power heads.
I've added a few frags after mounting my LED's mostly LPS and 1 mushroom. I then added the SPS I received from Wes it was in a holding tank in the basement lit by t5 and seems to be coloring up better now that its under the LED's. I have them on the bottom of the tank and far left. Farthest from the lights possible and will be moved up an inch or so a week to get used to the lights.
Question for anyone out there that own vortex and apex. I have them set at reef crest random and a hundred percent but I am not liking when they go to a lower flow. If I were to buy the wireless module would I be able to create a program for them so that they only go maybe 50 to a hundred percent and don't drop to the low Flow zone but still create a random flow pattern?
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I've added a few frags after mounting my LED's mostly LPS and 1 mushroom. I then added the SPS I received from Wes it was in a holding tank in the basement lit by t5 and seems to be coloring up better now that its under the LED's. I have them on the bottom of the tank and far left. Farthest from the lights possible and will be moved up an inch or so a week to get used to the lights.
Question for anyone out there that own vortex and apex. I have them set at reef crest random and a hundred percent but I am not liking when they go to a lower flow. If I were to buy the wireless module would I be able to create a program for them so that they only go maybe 50 to a hundred percent and don't drop to the low Flow zone but still create a random flow pattern?
Sent from my LGL75C using Reef2Reef Aquarium Forum mobile app
ruppertb
Valuable Member
Fresh water rodi 58 gallon plastic barrels linked together with uni seal. Works great but the pipe was a PITA to get into the uniseal due to the thickness of the barrels
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ruppertb
Valuable Member
Had to creat a hanging solution because the hangers included were too long. The leds would hang in the water. So I got aluminum and drilled holes in them. Used nuts to hold the aluminum to the leds. Then I used nylon spaces and screwed the aluminum to the canopy. There is a gap for the air flow and the lights look good and allow me to get into tank without getting in the way.
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ruppertb
Valuable Member
Hope this works. Gutter guard at an angle super glued to my weir. And gutter guard just cut to size and wedged into corners at an angle.
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ruppertb
Valuable Member
Well everthing has been going good. Getting sps acclimated to lights. Installed my 2 reactors and have them up and running. Will post a pic soon. Also added a float switch from rodi unit to keep sump topped off.
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Sent from my LGL75C using Reef2Reef Aquarium Forum mobile app
ruppertb
Valuable Member
So I had made a filter sock holder. But I'm unsure how effective the socks are because they are half submerged. Won't this just allow the trapped detritus to "disolve" in the water? Should I move them up so they are out of the water?
zoa_addict
Community Member
Started adding screening in canopy tonight so jumpers won't get stuck on ledge of aquarium or by the canopy doors. Ran into a kind of issue. The screen doesn't lay flat against the tank. Is there some sort of weight I can use like coated washers nuts magnets or something to hold it down?
ruppertb
Valuable Member
Had a long bought of dinoflagellates but they are finally gone. Getting tank stocked with corals and fish is my new goal. Just plumbed my frag tank into main system last night to help keep stability. Once corals are in main tank I will make it a fuge.
Display is stocked as follows.
1 yellow tang
1 engineer goby
1 blue chromis
Miami hurricane extremely orange mummy eye and and unknown purple chalice, trumpet, pipe organ, blasts colony and 2 torch corals. All seem to be doing well under LEDs with the exception of the mummy eye which is orange and not green and seems to look clear under bright white light.
Red fire fish is in QT and is reading zero ammonia and 5 ppm nitrate. Which is such a good sign because I can never seem to keep my QT tank cycled. I will treat with pratap row and copper and hope that tank stays cycled.
Display is stocked as follows.
1 yellow tang
1 engineer goby
1 blue chromis
Miami hurricane extremely orange mummy eye and and unknown purple chalice, trumpet, pipe organ, blasts colony and 2 torch corals. All seem to be doing well under LEDs with the exception of the mummy eye which is orange and not green and seems to look clear under bright white light.
Red fire fish is in QT and is reading zero ammonia and 5 ppm nitrate. Which is such a good sign because I can never seem to keep my QT tank cycled. I will treat with pratap row and copper and hope that tank stays cycled.
ruppertb
Valuable Member
So I figured out how to get the flaps i made to stay closed and flat. I used jb weld water weld 2 part epoxy and mixed up a small amount and used it to hold a small neo-magnet to the screening and pressed the putty on both sides of the screen to hold it on. works like a charm. i will get a new photo up soon.
ruppertb
Valuable Member
Went to March's fosters and smith LA Divers Den tour this last weekend. picked up a few CUC guys, a crocea clam, TCN pink with blue tip millie, a blasto and some ding dands. As well as a terminal phase royal/angular flasher wrasse Paracheilinus angulatus. Didnt get his pic because I bought it in person, but this guy was my second choice as they looked very similar but i liked the one i bought better.
not sure why this photo of bleached out bta from 28g got in here or how to remove
not sure why this photo of bleached out bta from 28g got in here or how to remove
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