Safe to transport a tank vertically ?

[oldmonk]

Yes. I got what you intend to say. Basically the tank on the dolly should be at around 45(+/-5) deg from the elevator floor which will in turn keep the max weight still on the bottom panel while giving some room in the elevator. Correct?

Thanks a ton once a again

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Yes. I got what you intend to say. Basically the tank on the dolly should be at around 45(+/-5) deg from the elevator floor which will in turn keep the max weight still on the bottom panel while giving some room in the elevator. Correct?

Thanks a ton once a again

Exactly. Again, only observations. I don’t intend to give any bad advice. Go slow, and mind the corners….bottom AND top. The bottom will pivot on a dime, while the top swings quite a bit when on angle. Now, for unasked advice which you may have already planned. Get the stand assembled and leveled with all feet adjusted as to be weight bearing before placing the tank on top if possible. I’m not sure with Cade, but others you can leave the bottom panels (sump floor) out as they are not structural, to leave access to the adjustable feet after you place the tank on the stand for fine tuning. After all is set, then put the floor panels on, and install the sump, etc. I like to use the cardboard that was around the tank as a three sided with floor mock up for creating the aqua scape. That way you’re avoiding scratching the tank and reaching up and over.

 

[oldmonk]

There is nothing such as 'Bad Advice'. Atleast on this forum. Everyone have had their own experiences in this hobby and i feel one only learns from it. And by sharing, it reaches far and wide. Especially for the hobbyists like me who don't have much resources readily available, this forum is a huge boon...

Coming to the main thing, Cade stand comes assembled with sump inside. So i will have to take off one of the vertical support leg, take off the sump , put a self leveling mat ( if needed) , put the sump back and then the vertical support again.. After this the leveling and all will take place before the tank goes on top. I am even thinking of dismantling the glass doors before transporting the stand up.

Cade says, vertical support can be taken off to remove the sump with the tank on top( ppl have done that with tank on top with 50% water even), no offence to anyone for that ,but i am going to be ultra conservative here and do things as safely as possible.

Thanks

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

There is nothing such as 'Bad Advice'. Atleast on this forum. Everyone have had their own experiences in this hobby and i feel one only learns from it. And by sharing, it reaches far and wide. Especially for the hobbyists like me who don't have much resources readily available, this forum is a huge boon...

Coming to the main thing, Cade stand comes assembled with sump inside. So i will have to take off one of the vertical support leg, take off the sump , put a self leveling mat ( if needed) , put the sump back and then the vertical support again.. After this the leveling and all will take place before the tank goes on top. I am even thinking of dismantling the glass doors before transporting the stand up.

Cade says, vertical support can be taken off to remove the sump with the tank on top( ppl have done that with tank on top with 50% water even), no offence to anyone for that ,but i am going to be ultra conservative here and do things as safely as possible.

Thanks

It sounds like you’re thinking this completely through beforehand! Great! A lot of us get so excited and lost in the process, often getting ahead of ourselves. The forum does have a lot of great advice….of course it’s the internet, so there is some misinformation out there. I totally agree with you on being extra careful, especially with the brace. I have a system in which that brace was an afterthought…….meaning they didn’t think about until after many tanks failed. They now include that brace on their new tanks, and sent out retrofit kits for the older ones. I’m always nervous that it’s going to pop a seam. Great luck on your new adventure!

 

[oldmonk]

It sounds like you’re thinking this completely through beforehand! Great! A lot of us get so excited and lost in the process, often getting ahead of ourselves. The forum does have a lot of great advice….of course it’s the internet, so there is some misinformation out there. I totally agree with you on being extra careful, especially with the brace. I have a system in which that brace was an afterthought…….meaning they didn’t think about until after many tanks failed. They now include that brace on their new tanks, and sent out retrofit kits for the older ones. I’m always nervous that it’s going to pop a seam. Great luck on your new adventure!

True. the amount of information available at finger tips is humongous!!

Thanks for yr wishes. Waiting to get home from the sea and get going with this build and start a build thread along. Was supposed to happen around early this year but things got delayed. Nevertheless i can see the horizon now

Thanks.

 

[Crustaceon]

An option is building a wooden “wedge” to place on top of a furniture dolly and place the bottom of the tank on that. I’d MUCH rather support the tank from the bottom and tilt the tank hopefully far enough to fit the elevator, but not so much that the tank slides off of the dolly. At least that way, you could wrap a tie strap around the lower tilted side panel just to keep the tank from sliding off of the dolly. It would be less load on the side panel than using a standard upright dolly unless you can hold the handle down at a fairly shallow angle.

 

[KrisReef]

I’m curious about how the “end” panel is assembled, yes it is seams of silicone but does the end panel cover the three adjoining edges or is it recessed inside of the edges?

Glass transportation is generally done on an aframe with ridged support and padding on the lower edge. (Styrofoam alone is not rigid.). Glass tipped on 45 places stress on the center of the tilted pane.
A furniture dolly with a plywood top and padding should be adequate for vertical transport of a glass tank. The trick is to keep it up right over gaps in the floor/path.

A properly assembled glass tank that can be moved by a few people can support it’s own weight on the side without much difficulty, as long as you don’t strike the edges of any pane while moving and setting the tank on the stand, dolly, etc. Glass breaks easily if you hit it on an edge. The edge chips and fractures can then form that can grow into complete pane failures. This is why the bottom edge on those A frame glass transport vehicles are padded, to prevent chips rather than the pane collapsing underneath its own weight.

hth.

 

[oldmonk]

An option is building a wooden “wedge” to place on top of a furniture dolly and place the bottom of the tank on that. I’d MUCH rather support the tank from the bottom and tilt the tank hopefully far enough to fit the elevator, but not so much that the tank slides off of the dolly. At least that way, you could wrap a tie strap around the lower tilted side panel just to keep the tank from sliding off of the dolly. It would be less load on the side panel than using a standard upright dolly unless you can hold the handle down at a fairly shallow angle.

That's a good idea..

Thanks for yr suggestion.

 

[oldmonk]

I’m curious about how the “end” panel is assembled, yes it is seams of silicone but does the end panel cover the three adjoining edges or is it recessed inside of the edges?

Glass transportation is generally done on an aframe with ridged support and padding on the lower edge. (Styrofoam alone is not rigid.). Glass tipped on 45 places stress on the center of the tilted pane.
A furniture dolly with a plywood top and padding should be adequate for vertical transport of a glass tank. The trick is to keep it up right over gaps in the floor/path.

A properly assembled glass tank that can be moved by a few people can support it’s own weight on the side without much difficulty, as long as you don’t strike the edges of any pane while moving and setting the tank on the stand, dolly, etc. Glass breaks easily if you hit it on an edge. The edge chips and fractures can then form that can grow into complete pane failures. This is why the bottom edge on those A frame glass transport vehicles are padded, to prevent chips rather than the pane collapsing underneath its own weight.

hth.

Many thanks for that insight about the glass.

Cade S21500 weighs around 300kgs and the side short glass is glued in between the long glass if that's answers yr doubt correctly.

Can you pls explain what exactly you mean by up right over gaps in the floor/path.

 

[KrisReef]

Many thanks for that insight about the glass.

Cade S21500 weighs around 300kgs and the side short glass is glued in between the long glass if that's answers yr doubt correctly.

Can you pls explain what exactly you mean by up right over gaps in the floor/path.

The biggest floor gap you will likely need to roll over is entering and exiting the elevator. Any threshold or concrete expansion gaps can also hinder your dolly moving smoothly forward. For the hand truck with a wedge it will be easier to navigate these obstacles than with a 4 wheel cart, Hand truck is balanced by 1 operator while a 4 wheel cart can have 2 or more hands to keep the tank upright and on the wheels.

Aquarium with 3 long sides exposed on their edges is like moving 3 single panes simultaneously. There are three edges that require protection at both ends of the tank. Hitting a top edge going through a doorway is just as risky as hitting a bottom edge when loading on the wheels.

Be careful and it’ll be fine. Thinking before ever movement is all that you need to plan for. Make a dry run with a paper box if you want to see what you have to deal with along the pathway.

Edit: This happens to often Imo.

 

[oldmonk]

@KrisReef .. Once again thanks for that detailed advice and the care to be exercised regarding the glass panes /edges.

Am not considering a 4 wheel cart for now, as it's going to be difficult anyway to navigate. So mostly it will be 2 wheeler if at all. The elevator gaps , yes i have to be careful there. Looking at the current scenario there won't be any concrete hurdles as the pallets will be coming straight upto the building lobby and from there till the elevator its a smooth passage.

Yeah taking utmost care is the key to this job, and irrespective of the planning done before hand, there will be some improvisation needed when actually executing it. Better not to over think, rather wait for the actual day with some decent planning .

Fingers crossed.

Thanks again.

 

[Joe Glass Cages]

@AlgaeBarn , @Joe Glass Cages , @Tenecor Aquariums , what's your take ?

Thanks

Thanks so much for asking.

for accuracy and safety, this is really only a question for this tank's manufacture.

As for a Glass Cages tank. we support on end and side transport to enter tight places. This is for Glass Cages tanks.

 

[oldmonk]

Thanks so much for asking.

for accuracy and safety, this is really only a question for this tank's manufacture.

As for a Glass Cages tank. we support on end and side transport to enter tight places. This is for Glass Cages tanks.

@ Joe Glass Cages .. Thank you very much for taking out time and replying.

Based on mfg's recommendation and keeping in mind the suggestions given here by fellow reefers, will exercise utmost caution and do the move.

Thanks

 

[Rovert]

Just another suggestion that might be helpful if the tank hasn't already been moved... go to HomeDepot or Lowes and buy some of that thick green or pink 'styrofoam' insulating panel, cut it to size and 'sandwich' it between the tank and crate to absorb any flex in the wood from placing too much pressure against the glass.

 

[dadnjesse]

If you only did this for a short elevator ride I would think it would be ok.