Salifert Potassium Test Kit

reefer1

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
Messages
255
Reaction score
66
Location
San Diego, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Help! I recently ran out of the regents for the potassium test kit and have since found out that the refill /kit is out of stock everywhere. It's not even listed at the Salifert webpage.
What's going on?
I started monitoring potassium when the color in my oregon tort coral faded. Potassium and potassium-chloride dosing helped bring back the deep blue color. I try to keep the level at around 400mg and this requires periodic dosing. (It seems that running biopellets depletes potassium and other elements from the water.) It looks like I may need to dose blindly until Salifert returns...
What happens if the potassium is too high?
How high is too high?
I currently do regular water changes and dose alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and aquavitro fuel.
Are any other elements missing?
Thanks!
 
Unless you go to a testing method such as Triton, I don't think there are any other elements that you should monitor and dose. That said, I dose both iron and silicate without monitoring.

I also do not think it is well known exactly what problems happen first with potassium overdosing, but people have experienced problems.

FWIW, many tanks do not get depleted in potassium. Mine, for example. I think it is a matter of what foods you add (with how much potassium in them) and how you end up dealing with nutrients and growth of organisms. Some methods export potassium and others do not.
 
Thanks. Here are a few more questions if you don't mind.
I read your article on silicate dosing. I may be brainwashed about silicate and the connection to unwanted algae but I don't think I can bring myself to dosing silicate. I will look at dosing iron though.
1) What are the effects of low or depleted iron on the reef inhabitants?
2) What dosing rate do you recommend?

I was able to monitor potassium with the Salifert test kit. It was consistently low, perhaps due to the use of biopellets (as I have read). Dosing potassium brought back the bright blue color of the oregon tort acropora. It also dulled some of the yellow acropora. I am now wondering how accurate is the test.
3) Any comment?

Lastly, I measured iodide, iodate, and iodine using the Salifert test kit. All measured negligible levels.
4) What role does iodine play in the reef tank?
5) Should this element be added (Luigo's solution for example)?

Thanks!
 
You can always stop dosing silicate if you don't like the results. It depletes rapidly. :)

I personally don't think iodine is useful for most reef tanks.

This has more:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/o...-reef-aquarium-by-randy-holmes-farley.173563/

from it:

Iodine

I do not presently dose iodine to my aquarium, and do not recommend that others necessarily do so without verifying for themselves that it is useful in their tank. Iodine dosing is more complicated than dosing other ions due to its substantial number of different naturally existing forms, the number of different forms that aquarists actually dose, the fact that all of these forms can interconvert in reef aquaria, and the fact that the available test kits often detect only a subset of the total forms present. This complexity, coupled with the fact that no commonly kept reef aquarium species are known 9in the scientific literature) to require significant iodine, suggests that dosing is possibly unnecessary and problematic.

I dosed iodide for years, and then stopped and never saw any difference in any creatures I kept (including macroalgae, shrimp, etc., but I obviously have never kept every possible creature that others may keep). Many others have reproduced that finding. Still others, however, are convinced that iodine is useful in their aquaria.

Iodine in the ocean exists in a wide variety of forms, both organic and inorganic, and the iodine cycles between these various compounds are very complex and are still an area of active research. The nature of inorganic iodine in the oceans has been generally known for decades. The two predominate forms are iodate (IO3-) and iodide (I-). Together these two iodine species usually add up to about 0.06 ppm total iodine, but the reported values vary by a factor of about two. In surface seawater, iodate usually dominates, with typical values in the range of 0.04 to 0.06 ppm iodine. Likewise, iodide is usually present at lower concentrations, typically 0.01 to 0.02 ppm iodine.

Organic forms of iodine are any in which the iodine atom is covalently attached to a carbon atom, such as methyl iodide, CH3I. The concentrations of these organic forms (of which there are many different molecules) are only now becoming recognized by oceanographers. In some coastal areas, organic forms can comprise up to 40% of the total iodine, so many previous reports of negligible levels of organoiodine compounds may be incorrect.

The primary organisms in reef aquaria that "use" iodine, at least as far as are known in the scientific literature, are algae (both micro and macro). My experiments with Caulerpa racemosa and Chaetomorpha sp. suggest that iodide additions do not significantly increase the growth rate of these macroalgae, which are commonly used in reef aquaria. Other macroalgae species may respond differently, but none are known in the scientific literature to “need†iodine.

Finally, for those interested in dosing iodine, I suggest that iodide is the most appropriate form for dosing. Iodide is more readily used by some organisms than is iodate, and it is detected by test kits. While many people use it and are happy with the results, I am not a fan of Lugols iodine (a mixture of I2 and I-) because it is reactive and unnatural. With that as a backdrop, my recommendation is to experiment with iodine if you want, but be ready for there to be no benefit and to stop if that seems the case. For reasons relating to the complexity of iodine forms and testing, I usually advise aquarists to not try to maintain a specific iodine concentration using supplementation and test kits, but to dose something like a NSW equivalent once a week or so.

I would also avoid commercial timed release iodine products. I do not know what any of these products actually are, but most likely they are an organoiodine form of some sort. There is little data available on the effects of such compounds in aquaria, and I see no reason to experiment with them.


And these have a lot more if you want all of the science:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/aug2002/chem.htm

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/april2003/chem.htm
 
Thanks!
Although I read the first article a couple of years ago, it was good to read it again. It has a lot of helpful information.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top