I honestly don't know. There is a cover on the RO reservoir, and when i start up the RODI system to make salt water, it feeds both reservoirs until they are full. So if my RO reservoir was getting emptied quickly, I would never have noticed unless it set off the optical switch, but that's all the way at the bottom
Salinity constantly dropping
- Thread starter Glenng78
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Greg P
Valuable Member
If you don't know, measuring your sump is quite simple.
Measure inside the glass, or outside and subtract the glass thickness. Front to back X Left to right X Height. Divide by 231. This will give you approx gallons. Measure each chamber and add together.
Measure inside the glass, or outside and subtract the glass thickness. Front to back X Left to right X Height. Divide by 231. This will give you approx gallons. Measure each chamber and add together.
Greg P
Valuable Member
Maybe fill your RO reservoir, make a mark, and shut off your filter supply to it for a day or so to give you an idea how much you're going through each day.
Honestly, if you're going through tons of water you've got a major leak somewhere.
My 115g system goes through 1-2g/day of RO with an open sump and my tank has a canopy with air exchange, so it also evaporates.
Honestly, if you're going through tons of water you've got a major leak somewhere.
My 115g system goes through 1-2g/day of RO with an open sump and my tank has a canopy with air exchange, so it also evaporates.
Greg P
Valuable Member
My drains are 1-1/2" and about 6' long. They hold 'maybe' 1g and my overflow box another 1g max.
I'm going to post you a return section pic in a min
Greg P
Valuable Member
So no way it's inside your walls? Your runs from the tank to sump have no hidden connections?
And no hidden return conns?
No there's no way, the pipes come straight down, and i would def see it. they come right out of the 2x4 in the ceiling/floor, and the holes in the 2/4 are oversized, so I'd Def see any in wall leak
Greg P
Valuable Member
Below is a pic of my return section Red Neck label. Before I made the marks, I let the tank 'settle' for a day or 2 (when I first set up the system).
I decided on a level for my return section to best keep my pump quiet and have enough room for 'backflow' with the return off. I then marked levels for when my ATO runs, a float I installed on my controller to shut off the ATO, another level where my ATO would alarm if allowed to, another mark where my return pump is off and finally a last mark for when I remove my overflow 'teeth' for cleaning.
I rely heavily on that piece of masking tape for peace of mind. It shows me if something is wrong with my plumbing.
I never test my salinity until the Running Level is stable.
I decided on a level for my return section to best keep my pump quiet and have enough room for 'backflow' with the return off. I then marked levels for when my ATO runs, a float I installed on my controller to shut off the ATO, another level where my ATO would alarm if allowed to, another mark where my return pump is off and finally a last mark for when I remove my overflow 'teeth' for cleaning.
I rely heavily on that piece of masking tape for peace of mind. It shows me if something is wrong with my plumbing.
I never test my salinity until the Running Level is stable.
Greg P
Valuable Member
The float between my ATO running and the ATO high float is to shut off the ATO power completely during a power outage/pump off for maintenance. This keeps the ATO from screaming at me.
It also prevents the ATO from short cycling if there is some weird pump on/off issue such as an overflow box high float problem or power issues.
It also prevents the ATO from short cycling if there is some weird pump on/off issue such as an overflow box high float problem or power issues.
Greg P
Valuable Member
So enough about system stability.
I REALLY think you have a testing issue, unless SOMEHOW all that SW is going into your ATO and being replaced with RO/RODI
Have you considered taking a closed container water sample to a LFS for Sg testing?
One of our members here recently was having Sg issues and it turned out his refractometer was damaged. He would calibrate it and then it would slowly change by itself. He bought a new one and problem solved.
Doesn't explain your controller issue, but it's possible it's also having issues.
I REALLY think you have a testing issue, unless SOMEHOW all that SW is going into your ATO and being replaced with RO/RODI
Have you considered taking a closed container water sample to a LFS for Sg testing?
One of our members here recently was having Sg issues and it turned out his refractometer was damaged. He would calibrate it and then it would slowly change by itself. He bought a new one and problem solved.
Doesn't explain your controller issue, but it's possible it's also having issues.
sfin52
So many pedestrians so little time
How are you checking the salinity for the water changes.
What is your temp of the water change.
Greg P
Valuable Member
I think the question was;
What are you using to test Sg?
My refractometer will give me false readings if the lens and cover are not cleaned after every use, and I make certain the cover is pushed flat against the lens during testing
What are you using to test Sg?
My refractometer will give me false readings if the lens and cover are not cleaned after every use, and I make certain the cover is pushed flat against the lens during testing
@phokusonmi
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I think my skimmer sucks up salt
