Saltwater Aquarium Almost ready (I think)

[BrewDaddyDave]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the all the help and suggestions regarding my first post. I believe I have all the equipment needed and am reviewing the steps to get started. I feel like it's information overload from watching youtube videos, online articles, searching through this forum and need help organizing my thoughts!

Attached is a picture of the tank stand that I built (needs moulding for the corners and shims for leveling which I have). I know some of you may be screaming at your computer screen right now seeing my power strip on the floor but note that I haven't attached it to the wall yet with a drip loop.

The setup is a 55 gallon, fish-only saltwater aquarium.

Please verify the steps I plan on taking to make sure they're in the correct order and I'm not omitting anything.

1. Level the tank/stand taking into account leaving space for the HOB filter.
2. Clean the tank with freshwater and a cloth/sponge. No soap.
3. Add tank backing
4. Prep filter: rinse filter pads w/ freshwater and install
5. Install power head & heater.
6. Wet test: check and tighten all hose connections, fill aquarium with fresh water, verify all the hardware works.
7. Sea Salt addition: remove a couple gallons of water, turn on power head and filter, add sea salt to desired salinity.
I plan on using tap water with Seachem Prime to remove chlorine and chloramine for the time being. Any issue with this?
8. Add Sand: I'm using CaribSea Super Naturals. Going to rinse it as recommended. Any issue with adding it to the aquarium with saltwater already in it?
9. Cycling: I plan on using Dr. Tim's "Fishless Cycling" method. https://store.drtimsaquatics.com/Recipes_ep_54-1.html
10. Add Fish: Day 9 of Dr. Tim's Fishless Cycling method (assuming ammonia and nitrite levels are 0 or under 0.5).
11. Fish: Going to add a couple at first but my goal is to have damsels, chromis, maybe a clown down the road.

What am i missing/forgetting/doing wrong?

Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated!

 

[piranhaman00]

Few thoughts:

Is the tank used? If you have to clean it out because it is second hand, use vinegar to help.

What HOB filter are you using? I recommend filling it completely full with seachem matrix, skip the filter pads.

Being fish only, tap water with prime could work. You might get issues down the road relating to algae.

Salt mix fine, sand addition fine.

Make sure heater is hooked up to a controller. THIS controller is amazing.

Cycle with ammonia and biospira. I am a huge fan of it and its cheaper than tims. Dose ammonia once add biospira and wait. No need to redose ammonia.

9 days should be suffiecient but yes, wait until ammonia is 0 and nitrite is 0 (NO2 not issue but I like it to be 0 during cycle).

I would skip damsels, they are wonderful and beautiful but very mean. Having to catch them out eventually is impossible.

Think you have a good start, I completely relate with the info overload! Take it easy. You are really gonna want RODI water eventually, look into RO Buddie. Even just using RO water would greatly help.

 

[Fred2482]

Agreed. If you are using a HOB filter simulate power outages to ensure siphon works. Read the sand instructions, many recommend not rinsing. I have only used rapid cycling products once, and after the 9 day period I decided to dose ammonia to test and ensure it went away quickly since the tank should be "cycled". It literally started another cycle, so I decided to let it run its course over a month or so. I am a little skeptic of the products now and would suggest utilizing ammonia instead of fish to ensure it worked.

 

[New&no clue]

I had the same first tank, 55 gallon HOB filter. I used tap water and prime as well. I'm not going to say its wont work, but it can cause problems depending on what is in your tap water. I eventually switched to making RODI water.

I would fill your tank with water add power heads and heater and mix your salt in the tank. Once at your desired salinity than add in Rocks and Sand.

Do you plan to use live rock and sand or dry? If using live than you don't have to use any of the bottle bacteria your rocks and sand should have enough to kick start your cycle. I used live rock and sand and let my tank sit for 3-4 weeks.

The first thing I added to my tank were inverts, couple snails and crabs, then a shrimp, and finally fish. Remember to add slowly to your tank so it can catch up to the new bio load. If you add everything all at once it can cause problems.

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

Thanks for the quick response!

Tank is brand new
For the filter I'm using an AquaClear Fuval 110. Seachem Matrix looks neat. Is it more effective/easier to use?
As for the heater, I have an Aqueon preset heater as well as the Top Fin heater that came with the tank. Might sound stupid but do I need a controller for a preset heater? I've heard that preset heaters aren't exactly accurate all the time.
Damsels: dang. Would having even one damsel affect the rest of the inhabitants negatively?
Biospira: sounds legit!
I've read some on RODI and it's definitely an option. You're saying I can use RO water as opposed to treated tap water to start? Would i need to add any additional nutrients/supplements to store bought RO water?

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

I had the same first tank, 55 gallon HOB filter. I used tap water and prime as well. I'm not going to say its wont work, but it can cause problems depending on what is in your tap water. I eventually switched to making RODI water.

I would fill your tank with water add power heads and heater and mix your salt in the tank. Once at your desired salinity than add in Rocks and Sand.

Do you plan to use live rock and sand or dry? If using live than you don't have to use any of the bottle bacteria your rocks and sand should have enough to kick start your cycle. I used live rock and sand and let my tank sit for 3-4 weeks.

The first thing I added to my tank were inverts, couple snails and crabs, then a shrimp, and finally fish. Remember to add slowly to your tank so it can catch up to the new bio load. If you add everything all at once it can cause problems.

I'm going to use dry sand and rock but can be convinced otherwise! I'm not entirely sure of the conditions/needs for live rock though...

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

I had the same first tank, 55 gallon HOB filter. I used tap water and prime as well. I'm not going to say its wont work, but it can cause problems depending on what is in your tap water. I eventually switched to making RODI water.

Also, I reached out to my city for a water quality report. The latest one I have is from 2017 and had the following concentrations. I don't expect the current numbers to deviate too much but one can never know.

Total Hardness: 10-12 mg/l
Nitrate: .064 mg/l
Flouride: .68 mg/l
Copper: .03 ppm
Lead: .005 ppm
Haloacetic Acids Five: .00099 ppm
Chlorine: 2.6 ppm
Total Trihalomethanes: .0003
Sulfate: They do not test
Calcium: They only test for calcium hardness
Magnesium: They do not test

 

[piranhaman00]

Thanks for the quick response!

Tank is brand new
For the filter I'm using an AquaClear Fuval 110. Seachem Matrix looks neat. Is it more effective/easier to use?
As for the heater, I have an Aqueon preset heater as well as the Top Fin heater that came with the tank. Might sound stupid but do I need a controller for a preset heater? I've heard that preset heaters aren't exactly accurate all the time.
Damsels: dang. Would having even one damsel affect the rest of the inhabitants negatively?
Biospira: sounds legit!
I've read some on RODI and it's definitely an option. You're saying I can use RO water as opposed to treated tap water to start? Would i need to add any additional nutrients/supplements to store bought RO water?

If the tank is brand new, just a quick wipe down will work then.

Great filter, imo the best HOB option. Matrix adds extreme "real estate" for beneficial bacteria to colonize. It doesnt trap detritus like filter cloth that you would then remove. As the water passes through the Matrix, the bacteria take in the ammonia and convert to NO2 and then to NO3. Matrix is also very beneficial in that its possible to get denitrification to occur, which is the process of NO3 to N2 gas. NO3 is toxic to marine life, so being able to remove it without water changes is a huge plus! If you are not familiar with the nitrogen cycle, familiarize yourself, it is the backbone to fish keeping and really fascinating!

I have never used pre set heaters, what is the preset? You always want a controller. That heater will fail eventually and you want a back up (the controller) to keep the temp. The one I linked is cheap and works very well. It has high and low alarms as well as a digital readout to see where your tank is at.

You can try the damsel, imo its just not worth it. You will read many stories if you search about people tearing tanks apart to get them out, I have done it, its not fun!

Im saying, RODI>RO>>Tap. RO is still not ideal but it is very much so better than tap. Tap can contain any number of toxic pollutants. Again, since your fish only, might not have problems but we cant say for sure without a water analysis.

The great thing about salt water vs fresh is the salt mix contains all the necessary elements for the fish/corals. RODI water is infact, water without any elements in it. Adding the salt gives everything you need.

Good luck! Keep asking questions. "He who asks a question is a fool for 10 minutes, he who doesnt ask a question is a fool for eternity."

 

[New&no clue]

I'm going to use dry sand and rock but can be convinced otherwise! I'm not entirely sure of the conditions/needs for live rock though...

You will see a pretty split camp on live vs dry rock. There are benefits such as increase bio diversity, cool hitch hikers, can decrease cycle time, natural. But there are also problems such as cost, harder to aquascape, and bad hitch hikers. Does your LFS (local fish store) sell live rock? If they do you might consider it, it they don't you would have to order and it can be very expensive to ship live rock.

Live vs Dry rock would be the same for conditions and needs the only difference is live rock needs to be kept wet/damp through transport from point A to your home, and then needs to go into a tank that is a good temp 78ish and good salinity 1.025ish.

I've read some on RODI and it's definitely an option. You're saying I can use RO water as opposed to treated tap water to start? Would i need to add any additional nutrients/supplements to store bought RO water?

Yes, many people only ever use RODI. For my second tank I never put tap water in it. Tap water, if from the city, is full of chemicals used to treat the water. Your fish do not need or want these chemicals. RODI water if clean and pure. When you add in the salt that adds in all the beneficial components your fish and corals would need. All nutrients will come from you feeding them.

 

[New&no clue]

Here is a good video from BRS on live rock and sand


And here is a good video for RODI water




I know that starting it is so overwhelming. It took me 10 years to finally take the plunge because I was always getting discourage with all the information. Asking questions defiantly helps, so please ask away everyone here is ready to help.

 

[Waters]

Good part about it being fish only, is the lighting can be shut of for extended periods of time to combat algae so the tap water with conditioner will be fine if you don't want to invest in the RO/DI.

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

Good part about it being fish only, is the lighting can be shut of for extended periods of time to combat algae so the tap water with conditioner will be fine if you don't want to invest in the RO/DI.

Good to know! Thanks

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

Hey guys,

I filled the tank with water and installed the filter, powerhead, and heater. I also added SeaChem Prime. Do I need to wait for Prime to “do it’s thing” or can I begin dissolving salt into the water?

 

[piranhaman00]

Hey guys,

I filled the tank with water and installed the filter, powerhead, and heater. I also added SeaChem Prime. Do I need to wait for Prime to “do it’s thing” or can I begin dissolving salt into the water?

Looks good! Prime binds instantly, I would just run the powerhead for a few minutes and then start dissolving! What are you using for testing salinity?

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

Looks good! Prime binds instantly, I would just run the powerhead for a few minutes and then start dissolving! What are you using for testing salinity?

This hydrometer. Is the there a better/more accurate way of measuring salinity? Refractometer?

 

[New&no clue]

This hydrometer. Is the there a better/more accurate way of measuring salinity? Refractometer?

A refractometer is more accurate. However it needs to be calibrated occasionally, and depending on the type are temp sensitive. Also they are finicky if get bumped or dropped. A hydrometer is easier to use, but it’s not as accurate. Just remember to rinses them out after each use with fresh water and let them dry before you use again.

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

A refractometer is more accurate. However it needs to be calibrated occasionally, and depending on the type are temp sensitive. Also they are finicky if get bumped or dropped. A hydrometer is easier to use, but it’s not as accurate. Just remember to rinses them out after each use with fresh water and let them dry before you use again.

I can borrow a refractometer from my job. Funny enough I’m a homebrewer and have a triple scale hydrometer. I wonder if I’ll get a more accurate reading with that.

 

[BrewDaddyDave]

Also, CaribSea Super Naturals sand recommends that I rinse it first with freshwater to remove small particles. Since I already have conditioned, saltwater in my tank do I need to worry about inadvertently adding more chlorine/chloramine by washing my sand???