SB Reef Lights

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So apparently you can use a kindle to work the app and connect to the lights lol. Anyways I finally figured it out. They look sweet! Can't wait to add some new corals!

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Why hung so high?! Wow! Must be lighting up the whole neighborhood-lol.
 
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Never. :) lol

The LED vs MH vs T5 vs Hybrid debate will go on and on. With in each type the spectrum debate will go on and on.... Often hobbyist debate to the death over the last 1mm of growth at any cost and never accept what is simply "Good Enough" I've had T5 tanks, MH/T5 tanks and LEDs. I have had success with all of them. I currently prefer the controllability of LEDs as well as the low cost. On a large tank it's a factor for sure. To light my tank 96x42x32" with Radians would cost me a small car. :)
I wouldn't say never.. I picture a time in the not so distant future when we get leaders with minds like Al Gore that will push to make lighting our tanks with T5 or especially MH flat out illegal.
 
Zane what size is your tank is and what size light is that it looks awesome !!!!
Thanks man. Mine is a 40b, and the light is a 30" elite ramping light. It's almost 330w. I had to turn it down to 10%w and 15%b just to get a decent pic. Its incredibly bright.
 
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I wouldn't say never.. I picture a time in the not so distant future when we get leaders with minds like Al Gore that will push to make lighting our tanks with T5 or especially MH flat out illegal.
i chuckled at this.
...but im sad because this may, very well be true.
 
@SB Reef Lights the fan won't come on though. Maybe it's something I didn't do right but I tried adjusting the settings and everything but still the fan didn't come on. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

Glad you got the Kindle to work! Hadn't even thought about Kindle users. :)

The fans are controlled by a thermocouple. They turn on when the board hits 45*C
 
Glad you got the Kindle to work! Hadn't even thought about Kindle users. :)

The fans are controlled by a thermocouple. They turn on when the board hits 45*C
I changed the settings so that the fans would come on at 30 C just to see if they would come on and I didn't even see or hear them come on and the temperature was over 30 C.
 
I changed the settings so that the fans would come on at 30 C just to see if they would come on and I didn't even see or hear them come on and the temperature was over 30 C.

Do the fans come on when you first power up the unit? Cycle the power button, they should turn on for a few seconds then turn off. It;s possible the control wire came loose in shipping.
 
Do the fans come on when you first power up the unit? Cycle the power button, they should turn on for a few seconds then turn off. It;s possible the control wire came loose in shipping.
Yes they come on for half a second then turn off. Then I hear nothing of them again.
 
Would the sbox basic have enough power to reach the sand bed and grow a variety of corals in a 60 g cube? It is 24x24x24
Thanks
Nic
 
Yes they come on for half a second then turn off. Then I hear nothing of them again.

Okay so there is no issue with the connections then. Let me get some feedback from the engineer. I'll get back to you as soon as I here something.

Make sure when you changed the program to 30*C you have the light selected under "Select Devices". I have made that mistake thinking I was changing things, but had no device selected.
 
Would the sbox basic have enough power to reach the sand bed and grow a variety of corals in a 60 g cube? It is 24x24x24
Thanks
Nic

Yes we run a single 16" unit over a 60g cube mixed reef at home with some SPS up top, LPS everywhere and softies on the sand. Blue channel at 75%, White at 50%, plenty of head room.
 
Okay so there is no issue with the connections then. Let me get some feedback from the engineer. I'll get back to you as soon as I here something.

Make sure when you changed the program to 30*C you have the light selected under "Select Devices". I have made that mistake thinking I was changing things, but had no device selected.
I made sure of that too just in case. It said settings saved when I selected the device and hit save.
 
Don't always expect that fast.

Agreed. Once shipped it normally takes 3 to 5 days to your door. However it typically takes 3 to 4 days to leave the factory. Typical times have been 5 to 9 days total. However we have a 53' trailer of lights on the way to California. By the end of the month we should be able to ship 1 to 2 days after an order with 2 to 3 day delivery times.
 
Agreed. Once shipped it normally takes 3 to 5 days to your door. However it typically takes 3 to 4 days to leave the factory. Typical times have been 5 to 9 days total. However we have a 53' trailer of lights on the way to California. By the end of the month we should be able to ship 1 to 2 days after an order with 2 to 3 day delivery times.
Do they require signature? Mines says it will be here Wednesday but I work. Can the just leave it by the door or does someone need to be there for it?
 
JedimasterBen Thanks again for the additional input!

Here is the info on Cree using Epistar for select red diodes (Not used in reef lights)
http://www.ledinside.com/news/2013/9/epistar_infiltrates_cree_supply_chain

You are correct the "Heat Sink is a much thicker PCB board. I do see where you are coming from. However in the black box lines, all use the PCB as the heat sink.

I also understand where you are coming from regarding the use of warm whites to improve Aesthetics, however I feel we have more than enough warm white, red and green to give a pleasant image of coral colors. Switching from a heavy warm white spectrum on the MarsAqua boxes to our Layout provided better growth and color.
This is what you say in your FAQ
We use only genuine Epistar diodes. They are a step up from Bridgelux. Though we wish we could use Cree USA diodes, the reality is it would cause our prices to almost double. Cree USA uses Epistar to make their Chinese diodes, like reds used in TV panels. Unfortunately many ebay boxes use which ever diodes are handy. Many are counterfeit Epistar or Bridgelux. We offer the best diodes in our price range. They are proven reliable and accurate.
I do doubt that Cree had Epistar make them end to end, more than likely they supplied the wafers and Epistar's fabs did the etching, but more research on that would be needed. What you say in your FAQ is a composition fallacy - even if Cree did simply contracted Epistar to produce their red dies for them end to end, that would not mean that Cree was or is using Epistar to produce all of their LEDs. As it is, nearly all of Cree's production fabs are in China, they produce only a handful of their LEDs in the US (despite receiving a $39 million tax credit in 2011 for the premise of keeping growth [and therefore jobs] in the US), but this does not mean that their LEDs do not still handily outperform Epistar's offerings both in efficiency and in phosphor tech.

On another note, did you know that Bridgelux doesn't make '3w' class LEDs in anything other than royal blue and green (and I'm not sure if green is still being produced)? They're almost exclusively sold in China for phosphor conversion by third party OEMs. The LEDs are no longer Bridgelux at that point, but obviously you still see the name used because the bigger a name you use the better it sells. The garbage white LEDs that OEMs try to pass as a 'Bridgelux' white diode are just that, garbage. ;)

As for having 'enough' warm white, that is something that can be debated on and on and will vary by what an individual has in their reef.

The 32" units you ordered are also 363w verse the 300w for say a MarsAqua.
Care to prove that with a watt meter?

Good read on why some red is good, yet too much is not. Lights with too much warm white and red can impact some corals negatively. One of the reasons we use far less red and more blue, violet and cyan. When I switched from the heavy warm white / red layout of the MarsAqua, my growth went up across the board. Color development improved also.

http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0092781
Do you legitimately think that any reef LED fixture has enough red light to cause damage? Notice that the tests in this study were done with a minimum of 128 PAR of specifically deep red light. Even if I swapped every white, green, and red LED in the MarsAqua for warm white I would still be under 1/10 of what they were using for their tests.

In addition, 6500K metal halides are still regarded by many as the the best light for pure coral growth, and they still grow the living bajeezus out of corals.

iwasaki6500K.gif



Look at all that green and red light.

Odd. Epistar is Taiwanese and is the leader in the platform since 2012. They are the most efficient on their platform and considered the same quality as CREE. Not only has Epistar made LEDs for CREE and sold as CREE; just a few months ago, Epistar and CREE reached a deal where Epistar could improve CREE products on their own and pay licensing fees to use the patents CREE already holds. Epistar is a true force in modern LED lighting; I'm not sure where people are getting these negative connotations?

http://www.epistar.com.tw/_english/04_pr/02_detail.php?SID=50
http://spectrum.ieee.org/semiconductors/optoelectronics/better-chips-for-better-led-bulbs
If you read closely, the deal is really for Epistar's benefit. Cree's phosphor tech is generations ahead of Epistar. Cree licensed some of their InGaN phosphor recipes to Epistar (as they have done for anyone else that has paid to do so). Think of it like when companies go through a merger. Companies don't actually merge - one company purchases the other. The company doing the buying calls it an acquisition, as it sounds good as they would have to have lots of capital to do so. The smaller company calls it a merger, because frankly it is much better for PR than just saying 'yeah, we got bought out.' It's much better for Epistar's PR if they said that Cree will also benefit from getting access to Epistar's phosphor tech, when realistically that is unlikely. ;)

I wouldn't say never.. I picture a time in the not so distant future when we get leaders with minds like Al Gore that will push to make lighting our tanks with T5 or especially MH flat out illegal.
Actually, that would never happen. What is happening, though, is that the major manufacturers like Philips, Narva, Sylvania are investing heavily in solid state lighting, and as that market continues to grow, production will slow and eventually cease of mercury lighting, and the first to go will be the niche markets that won't tolerate sharp price increases on smaller and smaller production runs. Some reefers are willing to pay $50-100 for a metal halide lamp, but if that doubles, and then doubles again, etc, how many will be left with the pockets deep enough? ;)
 
I would like to take the opportunity to thank Mike for his work with SB Reef Lights, and for passing on a way for the average guy to light our reef tanks. I was spending too much money replacing T5 lights every 6 months. I started researching entry level LED lights and came across SB Reef Lights. I took the plunge and ordered 2 basic boxes, and just waiting for them to arrive. I also want to thank R2R for the enjoyment and knowledge I gather by viewing the charts, graphs, and reading the research that is posted. It is interesting from time to time, that the very knowledge that people have learned over the years, compels some to choose to criticize instead of assisting fellow reefers. Nice work Mike Herman!!
 
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