reef heaven
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Can't wait to see what you come up with. Keep up the great work.
Scott's 270g aka Project Mayhem
- Large Build
- Thread starter Scythanith
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Can't wait to see what you come up with. Keep up the great work.
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Scythanith
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It's great! Slowly repositions itself around the middle of the tank. Beautiful blue mantle.
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Scythanith
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So I am debating getting the local aquarium manufacturer to build me two water reservoirs. One for RO and one for fresh saltwater. The Profilux ATO and AWC systems will utilize the reservoirs. I am not skilled enough to make a system that automatically makes new saltwater based on conductivity and a salt hopper. I will still make the SW by hand, ~60-100g at a time. The system will change ~10g a week, or around 15% a month.
I am thinking the RO stacked over the SW, as many have already done. A manual valve to dump RO into the SW reservoir. An ATO pump will be located in the RO resevoir to take care of tank evaporation issues. I will have the RODI machine on a timed solenoid so it only turns on once a day, or maybe even once every couple days to ensure a good volume of water goes through the RODI membranes.
The SW reservoir will have a mixing pump, heater & transfer pump which will be controlled by the profilux. If I was smarter I could design a solenoid system that reduced my needs to one pump but I'm not that crafty
The lower sump on my main system will have a dirty SW pump that empties a chamber (lower left, bottom sump). Once the profilux level sensor detects it's empty, it will shut that pump off and turn the transfer pump on until it reaches the full level sensor then shut off. Voila, water change
Anyone have suggestions or ideas? I may have it so I can add some probes as well. I bought an expansion box for the profilux so I can level sensors to the two reservoirs which will let me know if they are too full, too low, wrong temp and maybe even salinity in the fresh SW reservoir.
Thanks for the help!
I am thinking the RO stacked over the SW, as many have already done. A manual valve to dump RO into the SW reservoir. An ATO pump will be located in the RO resevoir to take care of tank evaporation issues. I will have the RODI machine on a timed solenoid so it only turns on once a day, or maybe even once every couple days to ensure a good volume of water goes through the RODI membranes.
The SW reservoir will have a mixing pump, heater & transfer pump which will be controlled by the profilux. If I was smarter I could design a solenoid system that reduced my needs to one pump but I'm not that crafty
The lower sump on my main system will have a dirty SW pump that empties a chamber (lower left, bottom sump). Once the profilux level sensor detects it's empty, it will shut that pump off and turn the transfer pump on until it reaches the full level sensor then shut off. Voila, water change Anyone have suggestions or ideas? I may have it so I can add some probes as well. I bought an expansion box for the profilux so I can level sensors to the two reservoirs which will let me know if they are too full, too low, wrong temp and maybe even salinity in the fresh SW reservoir.
Thanks for the help!
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Scythanith
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I took a whole bunch of new pictures but this is probably my favorite. Simple pokerstar montipora and some zoa's but the colour is true to the eye!
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Scythanith
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Some new pictures
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Scythanith
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Scythanith
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Scythanith
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Scythanith
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- Joined
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- What state or country do you live in
- Virginia
Looks really really nice! Take it the monti eaters are gone?
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Scythanith
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Nope they are still in there. I have just come to live with them and will not add anymore until either all of my monti's have been consumed and I'll wait 3-4 months or I will see if they just come to some natural balance (highly doubtful) and then risk adding new montis.
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Scythanith
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Here is what I have come up with for the RODI/SW MIXING/AWC system.
Tanks are 24 x 30 x 24. I'd also like a spot for the JG float valve drilled in the top edge of the upper sump for the fresh RODI. Bulkheads are 3/4", unless you think that's too small. What could we do about tops? I'd want tops to keep contaminants out but would need it to be easy to add salt (to the bottom reservoir). Also there would be some level sensors and piping coming out of the top of the bottom sump, sending clean SW to the main tank. I'd want styro on the bottoms of the tanks as well.
Tanks are 24 x 30 x 24. I'd also like a spot for the JG float valve drilled in the top edge of the upper sump for the fresh RODI. Bulkheads are 3/4", unless you think that's too small. What could we do about tops? I'd want tops to keep contaminants out but would need it to be easy to add salt (to the bottom reservoir). Also there would be some level sensors and piping coming out of the top of the bottom sump, sending clean SW to the main tank. I'd want styro on the bottoms of the tanks as well.
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Scythanith
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I ordered up the glass reservoirs from Concept Aquariums One step closer to being done my main system as I envisioned it.
One step closer to being done my main system as I envisioned it.
gettaReef
Valuable Member
Wow.....I stumbled across your thread and had to read all of it. You sir have an incredibly well thought out and beautiful system. Everything appears vibrant and healthy. I am in love with your space invaders; my favorite in your tank. I am looking forward to seeing your progress on the ATO/AWC system and may copy some of your design; please keep us posted. You mentioned something called a "salt hopper" that can automatically add salt to make SW. I know you are choosing not to use one but could you explain what that is exactly and how it works? I've never heard of a hopper before. Also, it seems you have most experience and wonderful growth with LPS (not that your SPS are doing poorly!); what tips can you give regarding keeping LPS so happy, colorful, and vibrant? And I didn't see it mentioned, but what do you like to keep your parameters at, what supplements do you use on your system, and what kits do you use to test? Do you keep track of additional parameters such as potassium, iron, iodine, etc.? And do you use/dose any carbon source? Sorry for all the questions. I am in awe of your system and thank you for sharing your experience in detail with wonderful photos....I am not worthy
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- Joined
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- Location
- Arlington, VA
- What state or country do you live in
- Virginia
I ordered up the glass reservoirs from Concept Aquariums
Keep us updated on how it goes, I'm curious to see how it all turns out.
The system is looking great, can't wait to see it in a year and see how far it's come!
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Scythanith
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Thank you very much! Up there is around 350 PAR. That's not an efflo, it's a Bonsai valida I bought from Coral Masters.
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Scythanith
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dp
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Scythanith
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Thank you very much! Up there is around
Thank you very much
My space invader is one of the show pieces of the tank for sure! Once the tanks show up I will show the build of the ATO/AWC system and the programing of the profilux. The salt hopper is a system that can "auger" salt into a reservoir. The reservoir has a conductivity meter in it and will stop the salt from augering in once it reaches the proper conductivity for NSW. Then all you'd have to do is top up the salt hopper 
You're right, LPS is my comfort zone. SPS is all new to me. Honestly the LPS are happy with frequent feedings (LPS pellets and thawed mysis), some t5 lighting and not too much flow pulling at the tissue. Ca 450ppm, Alk 8.5 dKh, Mg 1350ppm, ~2ppm nitrites, 0.00 Phosphates. I use hanna hand helds to test. I have used the TM 3-part bailing system exclusively since starting this tank. TM Bio-actif salt, TM K+ & A- trace elements & zeovit pohl's extra special. The reactors are running phosphate remover and activate carbon. I had bio-pellets running when I started but I got a mad cyano breakout and cut them cold turkey. Cyano went away immediately. Must have been some silicates in the pellets that were be released as they disintegrated. I do not track anything else aside from TDS.
You're worthy
I'm just happy to share some info with others! I gain so much from these forums, it's only fair I can give a little back!All the best!
Scott
