Seachem Stability not working?

[Fragmented Wolf]

I cycled my currently empty display tank with a raw shrimp combined with Stability.

But my Quarantine tank, I relied solely on bacteria in a bottle. I've dosed this stuff every day for 7 days straight. On day 3 with fish added to QT tank, my ammonia badge gave an alert, prompting me to do a quick water change. Figured 3 days probably wasn't enough for the bacteria to have their full effect. Now on day 7 I just received another alert from my badge. Did a quick water change once more but tested the water I pulled out this time.

0 nitrite and 0 nitrate.

Anybody else have this issue? What products do you guys recommend to get a bio-filter started? I think I may be done with this product. The bottle says "Dose for 7 days. Fish may be introduced at any time, so long as dosage continues". I don't think this product is fit for that description, at all. I think I'd have some dead fish on my hands if I didn't stay on top of monitoring.

 

[sfin52]

I have had it fail on three occasions. For this reason I don't recommend. I recommend Dr. Tims one and only. There are a couple of others but I can't remember their names.

 

[NeonRabbit221B]

Stability has never worked in my saltwater tanks. Fritz TurboStart 900, Dr. Tims and Biospira are preferred

 

[brandon429]

Clues presented here:

not seneye ammonia reading.


fish living day by day,


how long would fish live in a totally uncycled tank

48 hrs max?

describe fish, pictures


is water cloudy, fish panting, out of balance?

ammonia tracking has handy rules.
a cycle that carries fish past death zone doesn’t weaken out past a week or so, cycled is cycled there’s no mid ground. Not cycled means death in two days or less.

based on statements and pending pics, don’t buy anything just yet. Seneye shows us reefs don’t run at zero ammonia

we don’t know how much not zero your kit is showing, or if it’s cross reading for other params etc. if the reader went to full on contamination color that would be interesting, but a minor blip if fish look good/ not significant. If the tank shows clear signs of imbalance, adding surface area would be a wise move. That your fish are still alive indicates all is complete, however.

 

[Fragmented Wolf]

@sfin52 @NeonRabbit221B Thank you very much, guys. I appreciate the swift responses.

 

[Badilac]

Seneye shows us reefs don’t run at zero ammonia

Mine is pretty darn close ot zero but is still not zero.

 

[brandon429]

Hey thats great, on a side note we have a thread claiming it is impossible in reefing to have stuck elevated ammonia. It either holds in the thousandths, hundredths perhaps if overfed run or from a death, or it rises and wipes the whole system within a day.


from the discovery, we have identified that many people re purchase bottle bac when it’s not needed. We have never seen a cycling log from seneye, mindstream show stuck at any irritating degree, much less a .25 even from day one of a dry start


these fantastic ammonia testers are literally proving wrong the reef sages and authors who might have previously written about stalled ammonia cycles. That you got zero nitrite, pure luck. 98% of the time nitrite is there, and I’m still claiming it’s cycled.

lets do some real visual analysis before reinvesting in bottle bacteria. Post pics

 

[sfin52]

@sfin52 @NeonRabbit221B Thank you very much, guys. I appreciate the swift responses.

Your welcome

 

[Fragmented Wolf]

Clues presented here:

not seneye ammonia reading.


fish living day by day,


how long would fish live in a totally uncycled tank

48 hrs max?

describe fish, pictures


is water cloudy, fish panting, out of balance?

ammonia tracking has handy rules.
a cycle that carries fish past death zone doesn’t weaken out past a week or so, cycled is cycled there’s no mid ground. Not cycled means death in two days or less.

based on statements and pending pics, don’t buy anything just yet. Seneye shows us reefs don’t run at zero ammonia

we don’t know how much not zero your kit is showing, or if it’s cross reading for other params etc. if the reader went to full on contamination color that would be interesting, but a minor blip if fish look good/ not significant. If the tank shows clear signs of imbalance, adding surface area would be a wise move. That your fish are still alive indicates all is complete, however.

Water is not cloudy at all. One fish is far more active than the other, but I think that's simply because he's the dominant one while the other more or less sticks close to a tube and takes refuge.

I used the Red Sea test kit and my color (Now AFTER the 50% water change) still looks to be 1.2... I did another 50% water change about 30 minutes ago...

Attached a pic of the test kit results, and here is a gif of the clowns swimming about.


I don't understand... how can my readings be so high yet fish look fine?

 

[brandon429]

Hey great feature there!!! Active tank. High turnover oxygenation. Happy clowns, and sponge. A sponge seeded with bac is known to support two clowns, you are not over bioload here it’s great. Using any dosers like Prime for water prep or ammonia control directly affects readings, but even if unused you are at the classic crossroad: non seneye ammonia holds while animals that are burnt by lesser ammonia when real act normal.

*surface area is what’s limited in that setup, only the water that flows up the middle of the sponge is filtered, the rest just whorls around. Buying more bottle bac can’t help, it’s attachment points they need if you want to take action. Leave as is, disregard the test until clouding or panting at the top. No panting, no free ammonia. Add one more sponge and divide the air between them is ok, double surface area if you want to make an insurance move. *you don’t have to seed it with bac just install it, and in a few days it’s colonized and would pass ammonia oxidation on its own, in another test tank just by being in bacteria water.