Sediment Filter - Mixing Station
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JumboShrimp
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I must be missing something. It would go to the far upper right, where the source water (tap water) is first coming INTO your RO/DI system. It’s to catch ‘big pieces of junk’ (scientific, huh? Lol) before it ever gets into your first RO/DI stage.
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
I have mine plumbed into the mixing barrel before it goes to the tank, but I also put a T valve on it so I can just recirculate the water in the barrel through the sediment cartridge.
One leg of the T goes to the tank, the other back to the barrel with a shutoff so I can just push water through the hose to the tank.
One leg of the T goes to the tank, the other back to the barrel with a shutoff so I can just push water through the hose to the tank.
JumboShrimp
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(I see, that makes more sense. I could tell something wasn’t adding up! Lol!) Best wishes.
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
One leg of the T goes back into the barrel, the other to a hose that goes to the tank. Either turn the shutoff on the tank hose to recirculate, or turn the valve on the leg that goes back to the barrel to send water to the hose for the tank. Either way it filters the water before it enters the tank.
Since doing this, I have 0 brown crud in my mixing barrels.
Since doing this, I have 0 brown crud in my mixing barrels.
SPS2020
2500 Club Member
"B" for sure. There will be some restriction of flow, but it shouldn't be too bad. BRS has made this recommendation in the past as well. As @KStatefan suggests, you will notice any decrease in flow as the filter traps more sediment, in which case it would be time to replace the cartridge.
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
Nope no problem, but I do have to mention I have a HUGE(MRC pump I won on here that spits out 4,200GPH) pump I mix with so I don't I would notice it anyways. I change the filter when it's all nasty and brown.
OP
OP
um_fan5
Active Member
Over the week I did my first WC using my new mixing station!
Should have done it much sooner!
Did place a temporary sediment filter before the DT...plan on redoing the plumbing to make it permanent and doing what @homer1475 did!
Thank you all for your input!
Stay safe!
Should have done it much sooner!
Did place a temporary sediment filter before the DT...plan on redoing the plumbing to make it permanent and doing what @homer1475 did!
Thank you all for your input!
Stay safe!
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
Same sediment filter I use for my RO/DI, I just buy a couple extra when I replace the ones on the RO/DI machine.
1 micron sediment filter from BRS.
1 micron sediment filter from BRS.
Sean Clark
7500 Club Member
Yep, 1 micron is the way to go. I run two of them in series and rotate them. The first one will turn red/brown fast. I only rotate them and add a new one when the second one starts to discolor.
Zero_Cool
2500 Club Member
I hope this isn't too bad of a necro but this thread came up in my search for saltwater mixing station design and I have a few questions about the use of a sediment filter on the salt water side.
I have (2) 55 gallon rectangular storage tanks and will be using a single Iwaki 30 for the pump (maybe overkill but it is what I have on hand). Standard transfer from full RODI tank to depleted saltwater tank when needed, use the Iwaki to circulate and stir the salt mix (Reef Crystals) to clear and desired SG for 4 hours and then only for 15 minutes per day thereafter until the AWC empties the saltwater tank. Repeat.
The sediment filter I have is made from an old RODI unit so it has the standard 1/2 inch threaded fittings (typically with 1/4 inch ID input).
Questions:
1. Do I/Can I create a closed loop using the Iwaki to drive the sediment filter?
2. How much flow can a standard sediment filter in a reactor similar to the one pictured handle?
3. Does the sediment filter help at that flow rate?
4. Is 4 hours initially and 15 minutes per day thereafter enough flow to see a benefit?
5. Does the sediment filter housing sold by BRS have larger plumbing fittings?
Thank you in advance for your help.
I have (2) 55 gallon rectangular storage tanks and will be using a single Iwaki 30 for the pump (maybe overkill but it is what I have on hand). Standard transfer from full RODI tank to depleted saltwater tank when needed, use the Iwaki to circulate and stir the salt mix (Reef Crystals) to clear and desired SG for 4 hours and then only for 15 minutes per day thereafter until the AWC empties the saltwater tank. Repeat.
The sediment filter I have is made from an old RODI unit so it has the standard 1/2 inch threaded fittings (typically with 1/4 inch ID input).
Questions:
1. Do I/Can I create a closed loop using the Iwaki to drive the sediment filter?
2. How much flow can a standard sediment filter in a reactor similar to the one pictured handle?
3. Does the sediment filter help at that flow rate?
4. Is 4 hours initially and 15 minutes per day thereafter enough flow to see a benefit?
5. Does the sediment filter housing sold by BRS have larger plumbing fittings?
Thank you in advance for your help.
OP
OP
um_fan5
Active Member
I use the same 1/2 canister filter and 1µ filter which I been using for the late year plus with little issues.
All I've notice is slight flow restriction...but I usually change the filter out when it turns really brown.
This is what I doing and the same salt you're using.
Not sure but I doubt your pump will not push the amount of PSI to cause any issues to the canister to the filter
All I've notice is slight flow restriction...but I usually change the filter out when it turns really brown.
Not sure I understand what you're asking
Unsung RC, I run it over night
I use the cheapest I could fine on amazon
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
+1
I just used 1/2" barbed fittings on mine. I run mine so my hose to my tank(AWC in your case) and a recirculating loop back into the barrel run off a single pump like you have it planned out.
All you have to do is put a T valve on the output of the sediment filter. One end back into your mixing barrel, one end to your tank. I out a ball valve on the barrel line so I could stop pressure from dropping when filling the tank. With AWC and a peristaltic pump, this shouldn't be an issue.
