Seneye Reef Light Meter?

@Lenny_S Do you know why the light sensor keeps blinking a red light? Not the front of the sensor but the back light sensor itself.
Sorry it took me a while to reply. I have not had that happen with mine except in the beginning as I was setting it up. Once I completed the setup, it has just worked. I haven't seen that flash for too low light either, and I just tried it.
 
Waves have a huge impact - the water should be as clear and still as possible if you are trying to measure peak readings. I'd go so far as to put in a fresh, measured portion of carbon to get rid of color from the water. :)

That said, it can be interesting to watch the flux at a single location just to observe how insanely dynamic the lighting environment is underwater.
 
Something isn't right. Numbers are vastly different. Lower than I expected. Especially where the majority of my corals are.
Funny thing is my corals look good. How do I go by these par numbers if they're telling me my corals shouldn't be thriving?
Here's my Acan under just 45 par according to the Seneye.
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You can have relatively low PAR, but have enough PUR for these corals. PUR is most important since it is a measure of the Photosynthetically Usable Radiation, just something that the average aquarist doesn't have the funds to buy the expensive equipment required to measure. Roughly speaking, if you have a high amount of 'violet' and/or 'blue' relative to 'white' (even with somewhat lower PAR), then you should have a good amount of PUR which can sustain the coral's zooxanthellae...and coral health.
 
@Lenny_S should my flow be off while taking par readings? The numbers bounce up/down constantly. Very hard to get a set number with them doing this.
Yes, and you will also want to very slowly move it around at different angles while you take the reading. Even very small changes in angle make a big difference in reading. And there is a couple seconds delay in the reading, hence moving it slowly and waiting.
My son man's the laptop while I manage the sensor. Then I just take the highest reading for that area.
 
I would recommend going with a a tried and true technology that were actually designed to accurately measure radiation for the scientific community such as the Apogee meters. Especially now that they have a new model that has increased accuracy with LED lights and a sensor that is less sensitive to positional errors... The investment will pay itself off and it is built to last.

If you are just curious or just want a ball park then go with the Seneye as a fun all-in-one device. At the price point that the Seneye's are marketed at, you can expect approximate figures and for most needs would suffice for the audience they are designed for.
 
You can have relatively low PAR, but have enough PUR for these corals. PUR is most important since it is a measure of the Photosynthetically Usable Radiation, just something that the average aquarist doesn't have the funds to buy the expensive equipment required to measure. Roughly speaking, if you have a high amount of 'violet' and/or 'blue' relative to 'white' (even with somewhat lower PAR), then you should have a good amount of PUR which can sustain the coral's zooxanthellae...and coral health.

I'm getting a PUR reading of 79% Is that good?
 
The Seneye may give a rough estimate of PUR and the '79%' is something they built in, I guess. Perhaps they are saying that 79% of the light waves are considered 'PUR' and 21% are not?

The main takeway is that your Acan is doing fine in relatively low PAR because it receives enough PUR.
 
How do I go by these par numbers if they're telling me my corals shouldn't be thriving?

First, realize there's nothing magical about PAR, PUR or lux...all are estimates and none gives you any clue what is "best".

Second, realize many corals survive down to 1,000-5,000 lux....45 PAR is about 2,300 lux. So, even taking the number at face value isn't that hard to me. The coral could probably use more light, but if there's an adequate food source (possible, but almost impossible for us to guage), they are much less dependent on light.

Third, learn to trust your corals first and most - they've been correct the whole time! :) ;) :D
 
When I originally thought about getting one I found a guy who said it was within 5-10% of the readings from his apogee..
The slide membership thing is crap though. I use it from time to time but there's a couple comparable options now for a couple hundred.
 
The slides are $30 for 3. Each lasting 30 days. Each has to be registered before they're activated.
IMO not worth it for what the slides do. Basically, ammonia, PH & nitrate monitoring. My test kits last 2yrs for $30.

As for how accurate it is. I've no clue. I haven't compared it to any of my kits. Lazy on my part.
But I do question how my PH has remained the same day and night.
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