Setting up Coral/Invert Quarantine Tank

[andy71]

Background
I'm setting up a 20 gallon long quarantine tank.

I've read the great article by @melypr1985.

I'm new to reefing and working on a 90 gallon peninsula build which may not have water in it for a few more months. I want to get started on setting up a 20 gallon long (standard size: 30 x 12 x 12 inches) quarantine tank for the existing live rock, sand, new clean up crew, and maybe a few soft corals.

I currently have a 38 gallon FOWLR with:

• 20 pounds of live rock, some of it with coraline algae
• 1 common clownfish
• a few small snails
• what appears to be an aipstia anemone which has been solo for 5 years (The kids won't let me exterminate it. ;Meh I also fear that my amateur efforts will result in more.)

I have been using conditioned tap water for 5 years (440 TDS), but I just started using RODI this week with a 50% water change.

I had an ich outbreak a few years ago. I treated the fish in a separate tank, but never let the tank go without fish. I haven't noticed an outbreak since, but I assume it's still present. That's why I'm quarantining my current live rock. I might as well be safe and do it now since I need to quarantine other things.

The clownfish will go through his own QT, probably using the tank transfer method.

I plan to quarantine my current rock and sand for 80 days. New corals will be dipped and quarantined for 80 days from when they went into QT.

Questions
Should I even try soft corals? Would I need to test anything beyond the basic ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and salinity?

What's the cheapest lighting I can get by with for the soft corals? I was thinking maybe a 24" T5HO hardware store fixture with 2 T5's. Would standard 5000K bulbs work? Are these even available? Or maybe a few screw in CFL or LED reflector style bulbs would be better? (I don't mind building my own fixture.)

For flow, I have a spare AquaClear 110 hang on back I can use, which can do 300-500 gph (adjustable). Any reason not to use that? No other filtration should be needed due to the small bioload and cycled live rock.

 

[melypr1985]

Should I even try soft corals? Would I need to test anything beyond the basic ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and salinity?

It's always a good idea to monitor the big three: Alk, Mag and Ca when dealing with corals.

What's the cheapest lighting I can get by with for the soft corals? I was thinking maybe a 24" T5HO hardware store fixture with 2 T5's. Would standard 5000K bulbs work? Are these even available? Or maybe a few screw in CFL or LED reflector style bulbs would be better? (I don't mind building my own fixture.)

I would go with a cheap (used) T5HO fixture that is meant for aquarium use. I have an AI prime on my QT, but that may be overkill for what you are wanting to do. Even a simple Orbit fixture would work for softies.

For flow, I have a spare AquaClear 110 hang on back I can use, which can do 300-500 gph (adjustable). Any reason not to use that? No other filtration should be needed due to the small bioload and cycled live rock.

You can use the HOB filter for this no problem. But you will want to add a small powerhead to it if you are wanting to do soft corals and several (such as leathers) like to have higher flow.

 

[andy71]

It's always a good idea to monitor the big three: Alk, Mag and Ca when dealing with corals.

I would go with a cheap (used) T5HO fixture that is meant for aquarium use. I have an AI prime on my QT, but that may be overkill for what you are wanting to do. Even a simple Orbit fixture would work for softies.

You can use the HOB filter for this no problem. But you will want to add a small powerhead to it if you are wanting to do soft corals and several (such as leathers) like to have higher flow.

Thank you, much appreciated!