I'm setting up a 45 gal bow front tank . I'm going to do 50lb or black live sand . 50 lb of live rock and buy pretty mixed salt water at lfs... what test kit should I get or what to get to test my water. . I have a reef octopus 2000 hob skimmer . 2 power heads a heater nice led light and a fuval hob filter... am I missing anything.... how long should the live sand rock and press mix water cycle before I add fish? How off ten should I test it and do water changes?
Setting up first tank today a little help please
- Thread starter Kyle lanoue
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shovelhead
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Test kits: PH,nitrite,nitrate,ammonia
Reefrookie220
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At the very least I'd recommend an apical reef master test kit, and ones for cal alk and mag. All live rock and live sand is good. Get 25 gallons New salt water and ask lfs for 25 gallons out of one of their displays. It'll speed things along nicely.
At the very least for the first 2 weeks you should text every day to establish a routine and get an idea of your cycle status.
At the very least for the first 2 weeks you should text every day to establish a routine and get an idea of your cycle status.
Weekly test should be fine . Your nitrite and ammonia should be zero before adding any LS. You'll probably see an algae bloom when your cycle is coming to an end and it will probably take about 6 weeks. What are you going to run in the filter? You need to think about how your going to keep no3 and po4 down.
Kyle lanoue
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Bump...
Anymore info like if I go to LFS today get my live cured sand. Live cured rock and 25 gal of cycled salt water and 25 gal of new salt water . How long should I keep it running before adding clean up crew and fish
Anymore info like if I go to LFS today get my live cured sand. Live cured rock and 25 gal of cycled salt water and 25 gal of new salt water . How long should I keep it running before adding clean up crew and fish
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This covers every aspect of tank cycling.
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/
My advice is simply:
Do not buy or use an API ammonia test kit, google search returns show why. Use a brand that shows to be consistent, Red Sea, or Hanna, or salifert.
Nothing other than a digestion test tells you where you are in the cycle.
Every tank I have ever put online did not cycle, I purposely made it that way or we can choose to cycle, the point is biology is a for sure, non guess factor and I made that thread above to end guesswork. You can choose to cycle or not cycle, and when fish go in is based on a digestion test or from visual biology per above.
New reef keepers absolutely shouldn't be told to wait an arbitrary time frame to add something. When in doubt, a digestion test is exact.
The best way to start is to dose less and chase target parameters like pH and calcium exacting levels -less- to none when new, relying on large water changes initially as this balances well enough and gives you practice accessing the tank. As you move on with maturation you can change less and dose more. My opinion here. The link on cycling is not an opinion lol its testable.
The number one intent of that thread above is to prevent people from putting rotten shrimp in a tank full of live rocks, it just took two pages to explain why.
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/
My advice is simply:
Do not buy or use an API ammonia test kit, google search returns show why. Use a brand that shows to be consistent, Red Sea, or Hanna, or salifert.
Nothing other than a digestion test tells you where you are in the cycle.
Every tank I have ever put online did not cycle, I purposely made it that way or we can choose to cycle, the point is biology is a for sure, non guess factor and I made that thread above to end guesswork. You can choose to cycle or not cycle, and when fish go in is based on a digestion test or from visual biology per above.
New reef keepers absolutely shouldn't be told to wait an arbitrary time frame to add something. When in doubt, a digestion test is exact.
The best way to start is to dose less and chase target parameters like pH and calcium exacting levels -less- to none when new, relying on large water changes initially as this balances well enough and gives you practice accessing the tank. As you move on with maturation you can change less and dose more. My opinion here. The link on cycling is not an opinion lol its testable.
The number one intent of that thread above is to prevent people from putting rotten shrimp in a tank full of live rocks, it just took two pages to explain why.
twilliard
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Welcome to R2R!
At the beginning try not to put a lot of worry in the tank.
Test strips for the first few weeks is fine as your not looking for "exact" values
Let the tank do its thing and when you don't read any nitrites have your test ready
As for the clean up crew, when the water isn't toxic for them you are good to go.
Oh and pick up a refractometer it is a plus to have
At the beginning try not to put a lot of worry in the tank.
Test strips for the first few weeks is fine as your not looking for "exact" values
Let the tank do its thing and when you don't read any nitrites have your test ready
As for the clean up crew, when the water isn't toxic for them you are good to go.
Oh and pick up a refractometer it is a plus to have
jsker
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All of the above. I started with the test strips, and graduated to saliert test kits. Here is my question if it helps https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/all-in-one-test-kit.198283/ Saliert test kits are great, but I am switching over to Rea Sea. they are much easier to work with and read. I also use Rea Sea product (salt, and supplements) and figured besides the ease, using the test kit with the products I use might give me better results. I test for Mg, Ca, No3 Akl, Po4, PH, and Salinity, these are the one everyone ask for went you are asking a question about tank health.
Zoaeasy
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Consider using" Dr Tim's one and only " live bacteria and Amonium dosing every few days for fish less cycling.
Have had great success with this method in 3 Nano tanks in my limited experience in this hobby.
It is quite bullet proof and easy to do.
Takes about two weeks to get Amonia and Nitrate and Nitrite down to Zero in 24 hrs.
Have had great success with this method in 3 Nano tanks in my limited experience in this hobby.
It is quite bullet proof and easy to do.
Takes about two weeks to get Amonia and Nitrate and Nitrite down to Zero in 24 hrs.
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I agree the consensus is two weeks if using bottle bac and driven ammonia
Back in the 80s when you went live bearer shopping the lfs owner advised to fill tank and come back in a month or two before purchasing. Hardest 8 weeks ever
Back in the 80s when you went live bearer shopping the lfs owner advised to fill tank and come back in a month or two before purchasing. Hardest 8 weeks ever
LetItReef
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Used to get water from my lfs and found out that they use RO water and had algae issue.
I mix my own with distilled water at .88/gallon and no issues.
I don't want RO/DI set up due to waste water but there are units with much less waste water.
I mix my own with distilled water at .88/gallon and no issues.
I don't want RO/DI set up due to waste water but there are units with much less waste water.
sawdonkey
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Not to mention, it accomplishes nothing. The water itself isn't cycled. The beneficial bacterial lives on surfaces, not in the water. Your better off just starting with fresh.
However, buying cured live rock should speed things along. You could also add some Dr. tims QuickStart stuff. If I were in your shoes, I'd buy all dry rock with a few small pieces of cured to seed the dry.
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lilcee5004
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Any body that has been in the hobby for along time knows that the first thing that you want to do is fill your tank with goodies. It is a compulsive act. Don't rush, take your time before you attempt to do this. Trust me, it is a must. Moving to soon is a setup for failure.
Keep an eye on all your parameters intently on a regular basis and adjust accordingly.
Keep an eye on you filteration system and keep it very clean.
Make sure you don't skimp on your items that run your system.
Have good flow and lighting.
DO A TON OF RESEARCH, AND LISTEN TO WHAT THEY SAY.
Quarantine all new comers if you can, it will prevent any future problems. If you can't, talk to you local fish store they may be able to help with this. They want people in the hobby. Don't place corals to choose together, 5 to 6 ins is the norm.
Don't get fits that are not reef safe. Don't get fish that are competitive.
Get a good clean crew and watch them.
Before you buy, research( I know I said this twice, it is that important.
Keep tank clean. Don't get corals you are not ready for like sps. There is time for that later; this is a lifetime hobby.
Don't get discouraged, you are going to make mistakes. I have been doing this fir 20 plus years and I still do.
Keep up with your water changes and maintenance,this is so important.
Love this hobby abs don't be lazy. LOVE YOUR TANK AND FULLY ENJOY IT FULLY.
Keep an eye on all your parameters intently on a regular basis and adjust accordingly.
Keep an eye on you filteration system and keep it very clean.
Make sure you don't skimp on your items that run your system.
Have good flow and lighting.
DO A TON OF RESEARCH, AND LISTEN TO WHAT THEY SAY.
Quarantine all new comers if you can, it will prevent any future problems. If you can't, talk to you local fish store they may be able to help with this. They want people in the hobby. Don't place corals to choose together, 5 to 6 ins is the norm.
Don't get fits that are not reef safe. Don't get fish that are competitive.
Get a good clean crew and watch them.
Before you buy, research( I know I said this twice, it is that important.
Keep tank clean. Don't get corals you are not ready for like sps. There is time for that later; this is a lifetime hobby.
Don't get discouraged, you are going to make mistakes. I have been doing this fir 20 plus years and I still do.
Keep up with your water changes and maintenance,this is so important.
Love this hobby abs don't be lazy. LOVE YOUR TANK AND FULLY ENJOY IT FULLY.
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